Author: Zoe

Quickies

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Short answers to some of your recent questions

Hi Zoe,

I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?

Marty C.

Hi Marty,
Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.

Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.

Hope it flowers soon!

Hi Zoe,

Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?

Cynthia H.

Hi Cynthia,
Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.

Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.

Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.

Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.

Happy Growing!

Zoe,

Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?

Carol J.

Hi Carol,
I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.

Zoe,

Is it too late to plant poppies?

Mary R.

Hi Mary,
Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.

Hi Zoe,

Where do you buy your plants?

Renee M.

Hi Renee,
It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Scarlet Lily Beetles

by Zoe

Hey Zoe,

For the past few weeks I’ve noticed these bright red beetles on my lilies causing all kinds of damage. What should I do?

Lucy W.

Hi Lucy,
What you are likely seeing is the Scarlet Lily Beetle (Lilioceris lilii). While attractive at first glace, scarlet lily beetles are horribly destructive. They first appeared in New York State around 2012 after being accidentally imported to Canada in the late 1940s.

Scarlet lily beetles and their larvae, can defoliate Asiatic, Oriental, Martagon and similar lily species, causing strain to the plant and adversely affecting its appearance. At least they don’t bother daylilies.

Here are hopefully a few effective organic methods to manage scarlet lily beetles.

Identification and Timing

  • Appearance: Adults are 6–8 mm long, bright red with black heads, legs, and undersides. They drop and flip upside down when disturbed, blending into soil. Larvae are orange-brown, slug-like, and cover themselves with black excrement, feeding voraciously on leaf undersides.
  • Lifecycle: Adults emerge in early spring (April–May), lay 250–450 red eggs in rows on leaf undersides, and larvae hatch in 4–8 days, feeding for 16–24 days before pupating in soil. A second generation may appear in mid-summer. They overwinter as adults in soil or debris.
Scarlet Lily Beetle
Soapy Water

Organic Control Methods

Hand-Picking:

  • Tools: An old pickle or jam jar filled with warm soapy water and a medium sized artist’s paint brush.
  • How: Check plants early morning when beetles are sluggish. When you spot a beetle or larvae on a lily leaf, hold the jar of soapy water beneath the leaf and brush the beetle into the water. Works well for Japanese Beetles infestations as well.
  • Frequency: Every 2–3 days, focusing on undersides and leaf-stem junctions.

Egg and Larvae Removal:

  • How: Inspect leaf undersides for red egg rows and larvae. Remove with a brush in a similar manner. Don’t touch the larvae, their excrement coating is gross!
  • Frequency: Twice weekly during June–July when eggs and larvae peak.

Traps and Barriers:

  • Grapefruit Rinds: Place rinds near lilies to attract beetles, check daily, and dispose of in warm soapy water. This could double as a slug control.
  • Diatomaceous Earth (DE): Sprinkle food-grade DE around lily bases (1-inch band). It dehydrates beetles and larvae on contact. Reapply after rain.

Encourage Natural Predators:

  • How: Attract birds (e.g., via a birdbath or feeder), frogs, or ground beetles by avoiding pesticides. Parasitoid wasps (e.g., Tetrastichus setifer) are being introduced in some areas and may eventually reach NY, targeting beetle larvae.

Neem Oil (I don’t use it, but if you’re short on time):

  • How: Apply neem oil (mixed with water and a drop of soap) every 5–7 days, covering all leaf surfaces, especially undersides. Continue through the summer.
  • Caution: Use early morning or late evening to avoid harming pollinators. Test on a small area first.
  • Does it work?: Some report limited success.

Additional Tips

  • Sanitation: Remove plant debris and loosen the top 2–3 inches of soil around lilies after the first frost (October) to disrupt overwintering adults.
  • Resistant Varieties: If damage persists, consider lilies like ‘Defender Pink’ or species like Lilium henryi ‘Madame Butterfly’, which show some resistance. Avoid replacing all lilies—your garden’s diversity is a strength.
  • Avoid Chemicals: Insecticides (e.g., permethrin) work but could also harm birds and beneficial insects.

Reality Check

Hand-picking is labor-intensive but effective for a small garden. Some gardeners report cyclical declines after years of diligence, suggesting persistence pays off. If beetles overwhelm despite efforts, reducing lily numbers or switching to resistant types might be pragmatic, though it’s a last resort given their beauty.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.

In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Planting Dahlias

by Zoe

With their stunning and long lasting blooms, Dahlias are a stunning addition to any garden. The middle of May is prime planting time for dahlias, as the last frost has passed (typically early May in Webster), and soil temperatures are above 60°F—perfect for these tender perennials.

1. Planting

  • Timing: Plant now (mid-May) to ensure blooms by late summer (July–September). Dahlias need warm soil (60°F+), and nighttime temps should stay above 50°F, which they are in Webster this time of year.
  • Starting: Use tubers (not seeds) for faster results. Look for firm tubers with visible “eyes” (growth points).
  • Soil: Dahlias need well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.5–7.0). Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from mixing in compost and sand or perlite. Dig a hole 6–8 inches deep, lay the tuber horizontally with the eye facing up, and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the sprout grows, gradually fill the hole.
  • Spacing: Space tubers 1–2 ft apart (1 ft for dwarfs, 2 ft for larger varieties). Plant 1–2 tubers to avoid overcrowding.

2. Watering and Feeding

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—about 1 inch per week. Water at the base to avoid wetting leaves, reducing powdery mildew risk (common in Webster’s humid summers). Once established, dahlias are somewhat drought-tolerant but don’t let them dry out completely.
  • Mulching: Add 2 inches of straw or shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and keep soil cool. Keep mulch away from stems to prevent rot.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) to promote blooms over foliage.
  • Monthly: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea until blooming starts (July). Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

3. Support and Pruning

  • Staking: Most dahlias (except dwarfs) need support, as stems can snap in summer storms. Install a 4–6 ft stake or cage at planting time. Tie stems loosely with garden twine as they grow.
  • Pinching: When plants reach 12–18 inches tall (around June), pinch the top growth above the fourth set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more blooms.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent flowers weekly to promote continuous blooming through September. Cut back to the nearest set of leaves.

4. Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs: Slugs love tender dahlia shoots. Use your grapefruit traps near dahlias, and add a ring of diatomaceous earth around the base. Hand-pick at dusk if needed.
  • Other Pests: Watch for aphids (spray with insecticidal soap) and spider mites (increase humidity, use neem oil). Japanese beetles may appear in July—hand-pick or use row covers.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions. Ensure good air circulation (don’t overcrowd), and apply a sulfur-based fungicide if needed. Avoid overhead watering.

5. Overwintering in Webster

  • Frost Timing: Dahlias are tender and won’t survive Webster’s winter (lows to -10°F). First frost hits ~October 5–15.
  • Digging Tubers: After frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 4 inches, dig up tubers, and brush off soil (don’t wash). Dry them for 1–2 days in a garage or shed.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a box with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust at 40–50°F (e.g., a cool basement). Check monthly for rot; mist lightly if they shrivel. Replant next May.

6. Local Tips

  • Weather: May is rainy (3–4 inches average). Ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot. July–August heat (80–85°F) will boost growth if you keep soil moist.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County (585-461-1000) can provide soil testing to optimize your dahlia bed.

Quick Timeline

  • May 14: Plant tubers, stake, water well.
  • June: Pinch tops, fertilize, monitor slugs.
  • July–September: Deadhead, water, enjoy blooms.
  • October: Dig and store tubers after frost.