Poinsettia Care

by Webster Arboretum
Poinsettia Care

Keep your poinsettias looking good through Christmas!

Our poinsettia care tips that will help keep your plants looking festive for months to come.

Selection

As many poinsettias are purchased at grocery stores and home improvement centers, they may not have been receiving the best of care since leaving the greenhouses where they were raised.

Poinsettia Bud

When selecting a poinsettia, try to find a plant with tight greenish flower buds. If the buds have turned yellow and have separated, the plant has likely been blooming for a while and may not be at its peak for Christmas.

The small bud clusters known as cyathia, are the actual flowers of a poinsettia, the brightly colored leaves are called bracts.

If the plant’s foil wrapping is in the way, pull it back and look at the lower leaves. If they are yellowing or appear close to dropping off, select a different plant.

Watering

The poinsettias I recently saw at a nearby Tops supermarket were literally floating in their decorative foil wrappings due to over watering.

Once you have your plant home, its best to either remove any foil wrappings or to poke holes in the foil covering the bottom of the pot to allow for drainage.

Poinsettias prefer consistent light watering. They don’t like sitting in water but they really don’t like being left to dry out.

Poke the top of the soil with your finger every few days. If it the soil feels dry to the touch, give the plant a light watering. If your poinsettia has been placed on a saucer, tip out any excess water that accumulates.

It can’t hurt to mist your plants every few days to provide a bit of humidity.

Light and Temperature

Poinsettias are native to Mexico so they prefer as many hours of sunlight a day as possible. While poinsettias can tolerate full sun, indirect light is preferred. They enjoy temperatures between 65 and 70°F but not warmer.

Avoid placing your poinsettia in drafty locations, near frequently opened doorways, or in contact with icy windows. Just to make things more difficult, heating vents, wood burning stoves, and other heat sources should also be avoided.

50°F is about the lowest temperature poinsettias can tolerate, so when bringing your plants home from the store be sure to cover them before bringing them out into the cold air.

Poinsettia Care into the new year

Even though the stockings, ornaments, and inflatable grinches will be packed away, your poinsettia can remain a bright accent in your home for months to come.

Fertilize your poinsettia about once a month. I use Sea Magic Seaweed fertilizer on all my houseplants.

By late February or early March, if your plant begins to drop leaves and is looking a little worse for wear, cut the plants flowering stems back to about 6 inches in length to promote new growth.

If all is going well, just prior to the start of summer, repot your poinsettia into a container 2″-3″ larger.

During the summer, place your poinsettia on a nice sunny porch or similar location, as your plant will benefit from the outdoor humidity.

With any luck you will have a healthy but green bracted poinsettia.

Photoperiodic Induction

In order for poinsettias to achieve that familiar bright red color, they need darkness, at least 12-14 hours of absolute, uninterrupted darkness every night. Even the briefest flash of light can interfere with the process.

September 10th is the optimal date to begin the photoperiodic induction process in order to have a bright red poinsettia by Christmas.

During the day, the plant will still require bright light for about 8-10 hours to stay healthy.

From scratch

Most commercial growers produce their hybrid poinsettias from stem cuttings, but it is possible to grow poinsettias from seed but they rarely resemble their parent. Seeds also require a period of cold-stratification for the seeds to germinate.

Enjoy your poinettias!

Merry Christmas from all of us here at Shortmeadows.

Planting Garlic

by Webster Arboretum

Planting Garlic

With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.

For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!

Quickies

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Short answers to some of your recent questions

Hi Zoe,

I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?

Marty C.

Hi Marty,
Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.

Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.

Hope it flowers soon!

Hi Zoe,

Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?

Cynthia H.

Hi Cynthia,
Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.

Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.

Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.

Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.

Happy Growing!

Zoe,

Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?

Carol J.

Hi Carol,
I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.

Zoe,

Is it too late to plant poppies?

Mary R.

Hi Mary,
Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.

Hi Zoe,

Where do you buy your plants?

Renee M.

Hi Renee,
It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.

In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Growing Tomatoes

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
    Determinate tomato plants grow to a fixed size, they resemble more a bush than a vine and produce most of their fruit over a short period of time. They are preferred for canning and small spaces.
    Indeterminate tomato plants grow continuously and producing fruit all season. They resemble vines and requiring significant support. They are great for fresh eating throughout the summer.
  • For a small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

See popular local varieties below

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue, use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants in the spring. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

With any luck you will have an abundant tomato harvest by late summer.

Planting Dahlias

by Zoe

With their stunning and long lasting blooms, Dahlias are a stunning addition to any garden. The middle of May is prime planting time for dahlias, as the last frost has passed (typically early May in Webster), and soil temperatures are above 60°F—perfect for these tender perennials.

1. Planting

  • Timing: Plant now (mid-May) to ensure blooms by late summer (July–September). Dahlias need warm soil (60°F+), and nighttime temps should stay above 50°F, which they are in Webster this time of year.
  • Starting: Use tubers (not seeds) for faster results. Look for firm tubers with visible “eyes” (growth points).
  • Soil: Dahlias need well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.5–7.0). Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from mixing in compost and sand or perlite. Dig a hole 6–8 inches deep, lay the tuber horizontally with the eye facing up, and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the sprout grows, gradually fill the hole.
  • Spacing: Space tubers 1–2 ft apart (1 ft for dwarfs, 2 ft for larger varieties). Plant 1–2 tubers to avoid overcrowding.

2. Watering and Feeding

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—about 1 inch per week. Water at the base to avoid wetting leaves, reducing powdery mildew risk (common in Webster’s humid summers). Once established, dahlias are somewhat drought-tolerant but don’t let them dry out completely.
  • Mulching: Add 2 inches of straw or shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and keep soil cool. Keep mulch away from stems to prevent rot.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) to promote blooms over foliage.
  • Monthly: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea until blooming starts (July). Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

3. Support and Pruning

  • Staking: Most dahlias (except dwarfs) need support, as stems can snap in summer storms. Install a 4–6 ft stake or cage at planting time. Tie stems loosely with garden twine as they grow.
  • Pinching: When plants reach 12–18 inches tall (around June), pinch the top growth above the fourth set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more blooms.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent flowers weekly to promote continuous blooming through September. Cut back to the nearest set of leaves.

4. Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs: Slugs love tender dahlia shoots. Use your grapefruit traps near dahlias, and add a ring of diatomaceous earth around the base. Hand-pick at dusk if needed.
  • Other Pests: Watch for aphids (spray with insecticidal soap) and spider mites (increase humidity, use neem oil). Japanese beetles may appear in July—hand-pick or use row covers.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions. Ensure good air circulation (don’t overcrowd), and apply a sulfur-based fungicide if needed. Avoid overhead watering.

5. Overwintering in Webster

  • Frost Timing: Dahlias are tender and won’t survive Webster’s winter (lows to -10°F). First frost hits ~October 5–15.
  • Digging Tubers: After frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 4 inches, dig up tubers, and brush off soil (don’t wash). Dry them for 1–2 days in a garage or shed.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a box with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust at 40–50°F (e.g., a cool basement). Check monthly for rot; mist lightly if they shrivel. Replant next May.

6. Local Tips

  • Weather: May is rainy (3–4 inches average). Ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot. July–August heat (80–85°F) will boost growth if you keep soil moist.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County (585-461-1000) can provide soil testing to optimize your dahlia bed.

Quick Timeline

  • May 14: Plant tubers, stake, water well.
  • June: Pinch tops, fertilize, monitor slugs.
  • July–September: Deadhead, water, enjoy blooms.
  • October: Dig and store tubers after frost.

Spring Planting

by Webster Arboretum

Planting Dates for Spring

The estimated last frost date for Webster, NY is May 3rd.

CropStart Seeds IndoorsPlant Seedlings or TransplantsStart Seeds Outdoors
Arugula~~April 19-May 3
Basil March 7-22May 3-24~
Beets~~April 19-May 10
Bell PeppersFebruary 21-March 7May 10-24~
BroccoliMarch 7-22April 5-26~
Cabbage March 7-22April 5-19~
Cantaloupes April 5-12May 17-31~
Carrots~~March 29-April 12
Cauliflower March 7-22April 5-26~
Celery February 21-March 7May 10-24~
Chives~~April 5-12
Cilantro/Coriander~~May 3-17
Corn~~May 3-17
Cucumbers April 5-12 May 17-31~
Dill~~March 29-April 12
Eggplants March 7-22 March 7-18 May 17-31~
Green Beans~~May 10-31
Kale March 7-22 March 7-18April 5-26~
Kohlrabi March 22-April 5April 12-19~
Lettuce March 22-April 5April 19-May 17~
Onions~~April 5-26
Oregano February 21-March 22May 3-24~
Parsley~~April 5-19
Parsnips~~April 12-May 3
Peas~~March 22-April 12
Potatoes~~April 26-May 17
Pumpkins April 12-26May 17-31~
Radishes~~March 7-29
RosemaryFebruary 21-March 7May 10-31~
SageMarch 7-22May 3-17~
Spinach~~ March 22-April 12
Sweet PotatoesApril 5-12May 17-31~
Swiss ChardMarch 22-April 5 April 12-19~
ThymeFebruary 21-March 22May 3-24~
TomatoesMarch 7-22May 10-31~
Turnips~~April 5-26
WatermelonsApril 5-12May 17-31~
ZucchiniApril 5-19May 17-31~

Cold Stratification.

by Webster Arboretum
Milkweed Seeds

If you collected any perennial seeds this past fall, now is a good time to start preparing those seeds for Spring.

As unpleasant as those cold winter nights can be, they provide many seeds with the signals they need to begin the germination process.

Cold stratification is done to imitate the moist, chilly winter weather that triggers a seed to sprout. Most perennial plant seeds require a combination of cold and damp to germinate.

Common varieties that require cold stratification for spring planting:

  • Catmint (nepeta)
  • Coneflowers (some varieties)
  • Heliopsis
  • Ironweed (Vernonia gigantea)
  • Larkspur (Delphinium)
  • Lavender (Agastache foeniculum)
  • Lupine (Lupinus)
  • Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
  • Milkweed (Asclepias)
  • Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida)
  • Prairie Violet (Viola pedatifida)
  • Perennial Sunflowers (Helianthus)
  • Primrose (Oenothera speciosa)
  • Shooting Star (Dodecatheon meadia)
  • St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum)

Paper Towel Stratification

  1. Spread the seeds in a single layer across double layers of damp paper towel. Wring the paper towel out so that it is not dripping wet.
  2. Make sure each seed has good contact with the damp towel.
  3. Insert the damp paper towel into a Ziploc bag or sealed container.
  4. Label the container with the date and seed variety.
  5. Place seeds in the back or bottom of your refrigerator where it is coldest. Do not place your seeds in the freezer.
  6. In most cases, after 30 days your seeds will be ready to be removed from the refrigerator and potted. If seeds start to sprout in the refrigerator, remove them immediately and pot them in a suitable medium until it’s warm enough to plant them outdoors.

Potting Soil Stratification

Instead of the paper towel, you can also dampen a small amount of your favorite potting mix until it can hold together in a ball. Mix the seeds into the mix (approximately 1 part seed to 3 parts soil) and then place them into a ziploc bag at the back of the refrigerator.