Quickies

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Short answers to some of your recent questions

Hi Zoe,

I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?

Marty C.

Hi Marty,
Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.

Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.

Hope it flowers soon!

Hi Zoe,

Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?

Cynthia H.

Hi Cynthia,
Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.

Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.

Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.

Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.

Happy Growing!

Zoe,

Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?

Carol J.

Hi Carol,
I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.

Zoe,

Is it too late to plant poppies?

Mary R.

Hi Mary,
Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.

Hi Zoe,

Where do you buy your plants?

Renee M.

Hi Renee,
It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.

In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Growing Tomatoes

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Best for Webster:
  • Early Girl (50–60 days to harvest): Quick-maturing, good for cooler climates, medium-sized fruit.
  • Jet Star (70 days): Disease-resistant, prolific, great flavor, medium-large fruit.
  • Big Beef (73 days): Large, flavorful beefsteak, performs well in Zone 6a.
  • Sungold (57 days): Sweet cherry tomatoes, high-yield, hummingbirds may visit blossoms.
  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
  • Determinate (e.g., Early Girl): Compact, set fruit all at once, good for small spaces.
  • Indeterminate (e.g., Sungold, Big Beef): Grow/vine all season, produce until frost, need more support but yield more over time.
  • For your small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue (common in Webster), use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Local Tips for Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants now. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Quick Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

This approach will give you a solid tomato harvest by late summer while keeping your hummingbird garden thriving. If you want to focus on a specific variety, pest control, or container growing (if space gets tight), let me know!

Growing Tomatoes

Our Campari Experiment

We started campari seedlings indoors in March, from tomatoes purchased at Wegmans.

Growing campari tomatoes from supermarket tomatoes can be a fun experiment, but there are some challenges and considerations, especially in Webster, NY (Zone 6a). Campari tomatoes are sweet, juicy, cocktail-sized fruits (about 1–2 inches), typically grown as indeterminate varieties, which means they’ll vine and produce over a long season.

Pros

  • Availability: You already have Campari tomatoes, so it’s a cost-free start. If the seeds are viable, you can grow a plant without buying transplants.
  • Flavor Potential: If the supermarket Campari are from a non-hybrid or open-pollinated variety, you might replicate their sweet taste. Hybrids, however, may not breed true, leading to variable offspring.
  • Learning Experience: It’s a great way to learn seed-saving and germination, especially in a small backyard garden.

Cons and Challenges

  • Hybrid Risk: Most supermarket Campari tomatoes (e.g., those from brands like NatureSweet) are F1 hybrids, bred for uniformity and shelf life. Seeds from hybrids often produce plants with inconsistent fruit quality—smaller, less sweet, or different shapes than the parent. Check the packaging; if it says “hybrid” or lacks “heirloom” or “open-pollinated,” expect variability.
  • Viability: Supermarket tomatoes are often stored long-term, reducing seed germination rates. Seeds may be old or treated, lowering success odds.
  • Disease Risk: Store-bought tomatoes might carry pathogens (e.g., early blight or bacterial spot) from handling or storage, which can transfer to your garden soil, especially in Webster’s humid summers.
  • Timing: At mid-May, you’re at the edge of planting season. Starting from seed now means a late harvest (80–100 days for Campari), potentially into September or October, risking frost damage (expected ~October 5–15 in Webster).
  • Space: Campari’s indeterminate growth needs support (cages or stakes) and 2–3 ft spacing, which could crowd your 10×8 ft hummingbird bed if not planned carefully.

Is It a Good Idea?

  • Not Ideal, but Possible: It’s not the best approach for a reliable harvest due to hybrid likelihood and timing, but it can work with effort. For a small garden like yours, starting with store-bought seeds or transplants would be more efficient. However, if you’re set on trying, here’s how to make it succeed.

How to Grow Campari from Supermarket Tomatoes

  1. Extract Seeds:
  • Scoop out the gel and seeds from a ripe Campari tomato.
  • Place in a small jar with water, let ferment for 2–3 days (until a mold layer forms—this removes germination inhibitors). Stir daily.
  • Rinse seeds in a fine sieve, dry on a paper towel for 1–2 days (not in direct sun), then store in a cool, dry place until planting.
  1. Germination:
  • Since it’s May 13, start seeds indoors now for a head start. Use seed trays with potting mix, plant 1/4 inch deep, keep at 75–85°F (use a heat mat if possible).
  • Expect germination in 5–10 days. Transplant seedlings outside when they have 2–4 true leaves and nighttime temps stay above 50°F (likely late May in Webster).
  1. Planting:
  • Choose a sunny spot in your bed.
  • Harden off seedlings for 7–10 days (gradual outdoor exposure). Plant 2–3 ft apart, burying the stem deep (as with other tomatoes).
  • Install a 5–6 ft cage or stake immediately.
  1. Care:
  • Water deeply (1–2 inches weekly) at the base, mulch with straw, and fertilize with 5-10-10 when flowering starts.
  • Prune suckers to focus growth. Watch for blight (common in Webster); use drip irrigation and space plants for air circulation.
  • Harvest in late August–October (80–100 days from transplanting).

Alternatives

  • Buy Transplants: Local nurseries sell Campari transplants now for $4–6 each. They’re bred for your zone, ensuring better yield and timing (harvest by August).
  • Save for Next Year: Extract and dry seeds now, store them, and start indoors in March 2026 for a 2026 season. This avoids the late-start issue.

Recommendation

  • Try It, but Hedge Your Bet: Go ahead with the supermarket seeds as an experiment—start 2–3 indoors today. Simultaneously, buy 1–2 Campari transplants this week for a guaranteed harvest by August. This balances the gamble with reliability.
  • Monitor: If hybrid offspring disappoint (e.g., small or bland fruit), note it for next year and source heirloom Campari seeds.

Planting Dahlias

by Webster Arboretum

With their stunning and long lasting blooms, Dahlias are a stunning addition to any garden. The middle of May is prime planting time for dahlias, as the last frost has passed (typically early May in Webster), and soil temperatures are above 60°F—perfect for these tender perennials.

1. Planting

  • Timing: Plant now (mid-May) to ensure blooms by late summer (July–September). Dahlias need warm soil (60°F+), and nighttime temps should stay above 50°F, which they are in Webster this time of year.
  • Starting: Use tubers (not seeds) for faster results. Look for firm tubers with visible “eyes” (growth points).
  • Soil: Dahlias need well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.5–7.0). Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from mixing in compost and sand or perlite. Dig a hole 6–8 inches deep, lay the tuber horizontally with the eye facing up, and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the sprout grows, gradually fill the hole.
  • Spacing: Space tubers 1–2 ft apart (1 ft for dwarfs, 2 ft for larger varieties). Plant 1–2 tubers to avoid overcrowding.

2. Watering and Feeding

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—about 1 inch per week. Water at the base to avoid wetting leaves, reducing powdery mildew risk (common in Webster’s humid summers). Once established, dahlias are somewhat drought-tolerant but don’t let them dry out completely.
  • Mulching: Add 2 inches of straw or shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and keep soil cool. Keep mulch away from stems to prevent rot.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) to promote blooms over foliage.
  • Monthly: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea until blooming starts (July). Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

3. Support and Pruning

  • Staking: Most dahlias (except dwarfs) need support, as stems can snap in summer storms. Install a 4–6 ft stake or cage at planting time. Tie stems loosely with garden twine as they grow.
  • Pinching: When plants reach 12–18 inches tall (around June), pinch the top growth above the fourth set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more blooms.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent flowers weekly to promote continuous blooming through September. Cut back to the nearest set of leaves.

4. Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs: Slugs love tender dahlia shoots. Use your grapefruit traps near dahlias, and add a ring of diatomaceous earth around the base. Hand-pick at dusk if needed.
  • Other Pests: Watch for aphids (spray with insecticidal soap) and spider mites (increase humidity, use neem oil). Japanese beetles may appear in July—hand-pick or use row covers.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions. Ensure good air circulation (don’t overcrowd), and apply a sulfur-based fungicide if needed. Avoid overhead watering.

5. Overwintering in Webster

  • Frost Timing: Dahlias are tender and won’t survive Webster’s winter (lows to -10°F). First frost hits ~October 5–15.
  • Digging Tubers: After frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 4 inches, dig up tubers, and brush off soil (don’t wash). Dry them for 1–2 days in a garage or shed.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a box with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust at 40–50°F (e.g., a cool basement). Check monthly for rot; mist lightly if they shrivel. Replant next May.

6. Local Tips

  • Weather: May is rainy (3–4 inches average). Ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot. July–August heat (80–85°F) will boost growth if you keep soil moist.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County (585-461-1000) can provide soil testing to optimize your dahlia bed.

Quick Timeline

  • May 14: Plant tubers, stake, water well.
  • June: Pinch tops, fertilize, monitor slugs.
  • July–September: Deadhead, water, enjoy blooms.
  • October: Dig and store tubers after frost.

Spring Planting

by Webster Arboretum

Planting Dates for Spring

The estimated last frost date for Webster, NY is May 3rd.

CropStart Seeds IndoorsPlant Seedlings or TransplantsStart Seeds Outdoors
Arugula~~April 19-May 3
Basil March 7-22May 3-24~
Beets~~April 19-May 10
Bell PeppersFebruary 21-March 7May 10-24~
BroccoliMarch 7-22April 5-26~
Cabbage March 7-22April 5-19~
Cantaloupes April 5-12May 17-31~
Carrots~~March 29-April 12
Cauliflower March 7-22April 5-26~
Celery February 21-March 7May 10-24~
Chives~~April 5-12
Cilantro/Coriander~~May 3-17
Corn~~May 3-17
Cucumbers April 5-12 May 17-31~
Dill~~March 29-April 12
Eggplants March 7-22 March 7-18 May 17-31~
Green Beans~~May 10-31
Kale March 7-22 March 7-18April 5-26~
Kohlrabi March 22-April 5April 12-19~
Lettuce March 22-April 5April 19-May 17~
Onions~~April 5-26
Oregano February 21-March 22May 3-24~
Parsley~~April 5-19
Parsnips~~April 12-May 3
Peas~~March 22-April 12
Potatoes~~April 26-May 17
Pumpkins April 12-26May 17-31~
Radishes~~March 7-29
RosemaryFebruary 21-March 7May 10-31~
SageMarch 7-22May 3-17~
Spinach~~ March 22-April 12
Sweet PotatoesApril 5-12May 17-31~
Swiss ChardMarch 22-April 5 April 12-19~
ThymeFebruary 21-March 22May 3-24~
TomatoesMarch 7-22May 10-31~
Turnips~~April 5-26
WatermelonsApril 5-12May 17-31~
ZucchiniApril 5-19May 17-31~

Cold Stratification.

by Webster Arboretum
Milkweed Seeds

If you collected any perennial seeds this past fall, now is a good time to start preparing those seeds for Spring.

As unpleasant as those cold winter nights can be, they provide many seeds with the signals they need to begin the germination process.

Cold stratification is done to imitate the moist, chilly winter weather that triggers a seed to sprout. Most perennial plant seeds require a combination of cold and damp to germinate.

Common varieties that require cold stratification for spring planting:

  • Catmint (nepeta)
  • Coneflowers (some varieties)
  • Heliopsis
  • Ironweed (Vernonia gigantea)
  • Larkspur (Delphinium)
  • Lavender (Agastache foeniculum)
  • Lupine (Lupinus)
  • Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
  • Milkweed (Asclepias)
  • Prairie Coneflower (Ratibida)
  • Prairie Violet (Viola pedatifida)
  • Perennial Sunflowers (Helianthus)
  • Primrose (Oenothera speciosa)
  • Shooting Star (Dodecatheon meadia)
  • St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum)

Paper Towel Stratification

  1. Spread the seeds in a single layer across double layers of damp paper towel. Wring the paper towel out so that it is not dripping wet.
  2. Make sure each seed has good contact with the damp towel.
  3. Insert the damp paper towel into a Ziploc bag or sealed container.
  4. Label the container with the date and seed variety.
  5. Place seeds in the back or bottom of your refrigerator where it is coldest. Do not place your seeds in the freezer.
  6. In most cases, after 30 days your seeds will be ready to be removed from the refrigerator and potted. If seeds start to sprout in the refrigerator, remove them immediately and pot them in a suitable medium until it’s warm enough to plant them outdoors.

Potting Soil Stratification

Instead of the paper towel, you can also dampen a small amount of your favorite potting mix until it can hold together in a ball. Mix the seeds into the mix (approximately 1 part seed to 3 parts soil) and then place them into a ziploc bag at the back of the refrigerator.