What’s more intriguing than the delicate lantern shaped coverings that conceal the tomatillos inside? If you can’t see the tomatillo, how do you know if its ripe?
If you press against the sides of the lantern and it feels largely empty or if there is noticeable space between the walls of the lantern and the fruit inside, its not ready to pick.
Ideally the fruit will eventually grow large enough to split open the papery lantern husk or at least press against the lantern’s sides. The colour of a the tomatillo husk can vary by variety, but most will transition from an attractive mid green colour to a dryish tan colour. The fruit inside should feel firm with a slight amount of give, not unlike a ripe cherry tomato.
Ripe tomatillos should detach with a slight tug. If they resist, give them a few more days on the vine.
For most uses, its preferable for tomatillos to be picked as soon as they are ripe in order to maintain their somewhat sharp flavour. Once the fruit begins to yellow they will become sweeter and will lose a bit of their zip.
Salsa Verde
Tomatillo salsa (salsa verde) is a bright, tangy Mexican green sauce made by blending cooked tomatillos with onions, peppers, cilantro, and lime juice.
Ingredients
Tomatillos: 1 1/2 pounds (husks removed and rinsed well)
Onion: 1/2 cup chopped white or yellow onion
Peppers: 1 to 2 jalapeño or serrano peppers
Garlic: 2 cloves
Cilantro: 1/2 cup fresh leaves and stems
Lime Juice: 1 tablespoon fresh
Salt: To taste
How to Make It
Prep the tomatillos: Remove the papery husks and wash the sticky residue off the tomatillos. Cut them in half.
Cook the vegetables: Roast the tomatillos, peppers, and garlic under a broiler for 5 to 7 minutes until the skins are lightly charred and blistered. You can also boil them in water for 5 minutes or pan-sear them.
Blend the ingredients: Transfer the cooked vegetables and any accumulated juices to a blender or food processor. Add the onion, cilantro, lime juice, and salt.
Pulse to your liking: Pulse the mixture until it reaches your preferred texture, from chunky to smooth.
Cool and serve: Let the salsa cool completely, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving with chips or over tacos.
Coleus have been something of the star of this summer’s garden.
Maybe I’ve just been oblivious to the charms of the coleus. Over the years, I’ve seen the occasional coleus here or there, perched upon a shelf amidst a collection of houseplants, or placed as a potted accent along a front walk. This summer however, I’ve seen multiple elaborate coleus displays.
At the recent Buffalo Garden Walk, one homeowner had transformed their driveway into an outdoor living space by placing multiple potted plants, including coleus in 4 foot high clusters that formed the backdrop for walkways and seating areas. (I wish I took more pictures!)
Alone, the colour and patterning of a single coleus plant’s leaves are eye catching. What makes coleus really shine is when drastically different varieties are placed within close proximity to each other. Even with the drastic contrasts in colour between individual plants, their similar tonalities unify the arrangement and create something really striking.
Patience is a virtue they say, but why wait until next spring to start adding a pop of colour to your home! They’re easy to grow and it’s a delight to see the brilliant neon colours emerge.
Growing Coleus from Seed
Timing: If you’re looking to place your coleus outside, start your seeds indoors 8 to 12 weeks before the last expected spring frost. Otherwise, start your seeds anytime.
Soil Prep: Fill a seed tray with a lightweight, pre-moistened seed-starting mix.
Sowing: Press the tiny seeds gently onto the soil surface. Do not cover them, as they require direct light to germinate.
Moisture: Mist the tray lightly with water. Cover it with a clear plastic dome or wrap to lock in humidity. Keep the soil slightly moist, but not too damp or the roots may rot.
Light: Move the sprouts to a bright windowsill or put them under grow lights for 12 to 16 hours daily. The colors of the plants vary greatly depending on how much light they receive. Leaves developed during the winter may be paler in colour than those produced in the summer.
Warmth: Place the tray in a warm spot between 70°F and 75°F (21°C to 24°C).
Sprouting Time: Seeds will sprout in 7 to 14 days. Remove the plastic cover immediately when green specks appear. The initial leaves will be green, but the following set of leaves should give you a hint of the colouration to come.
Transplanting: Move young plants to individual pots when they grow 3 to 4 true leaves and are sturdy enough to handle safely.
Adult Plant Care
Light: Bright, indirect light near an east or west facing window is ideal. Too much direct sun can scorch the leaves, while too little light causes the colors to fade and the plant to become leggy.
Temperature: Keep temperatures between 60°F and 75°F (15°C to 24°C). Protect the plant from cold window drafts and heating vents.
Watering: Water thoroughly whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely, or the leaves will quickly wilt.
Humidity: Coleus loves moisture. Group plants together, use a humidifier. Many people place their plants on a tray filled with pebbles and water to boost humidity but it really only has limited impact on the area around the plant.
Fertilizer: To maximize the vibrant foliage of your coleus, use a balanced or high-nitrogen fertilizer while keeping phosphorus levels low. (We use Sea Magic.) Coleus are largely grown for their colourful leaves and not their flowers. High phosphorus can trigger premature flowering and yellowing, making the plant look leggy and spent. For house plants, apply a water-soluble liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Stop feeding entirely during winter dormancy.
Rotate the pot: Turn the plant a quarter-turn every week to ensure even light exposure and balanced growth.
Pinch the tips: Routinely pinch off the growing tips to prevent the plant from becoming tall and spindly. While most coleus plants need to be trimmed in order to develop a pleasant shape, the Kong variety generally prefers to be left alone.
Flowering: To help maintain the plants colour and shape, remove any flower buds that begin to form.
Outdoors: If you place your coleus plants outdoors, they will need to be moved to a protected area when there is a chance of frost. It is not recommended to bring the plants back indoors as they generally don’t transition well and as insects may have made homes in the plants soil. An alternative is to take a few cuttings from your outdoor plant and root them in a small container of soil indoors.
To determine when hot peppers are ready to be picked requires observation of the peppers color, size, firmness, and (for some varieties) corking. They can be harvested green or fully ripe, depending on the variety and the flavor/heat level you’re looking for.
Primary signs of readiness
Color change: Most start green and turn their mature color (red, orange, yellow, etc.). This is the clearest sign of full ripeness. Fully colored peppers generally have better flavor, more sweetness, and higher heat (more developed capsaicin). Peak heat often occurs just as they begin changing color.
Full size: The pepper has reached the expected mature size for its variety (check the seed packet) and has stopped growing larger. Homegrown ones may be a bit smaller than store-bought.
Firmness and feel: The pepper should feel firm (not soft or wrinkled, unless slightly soft when fully ripe on some types). It often pulls or snaps off the plant more easily when ready.
Corking (common on jalapeños and some other hot peppers): These look like white/tan/brown stretch marks or fine cracks on the skin. They form when the pepper grows faster than its skin can stretch. Corking is normal, harmless, and often signals maturity, good flavor, and higher heat. Many growers prefer corked jalapeños.
Variety-specific considerations
Jalapeños: Often picked green (deeper green color, full size, ideally with some corking) for the classic savory/smoky flavor. They can turn nearly black then bright red; red ones are sweeter and can be hotter. Wait 1–2 weeks after full size if picking green.
Habaneros: Best when fully colored (usually bright orange or red, depending on the type). Green ones lack the full floral flavor and heat—be patient.
Cayenne and similar thin/hot types: Harvest when fully bright red for best flavor and heat. Green ones are milder and less flavorful.
Other hot peppers (serranos, Thai, superhots like ghost/reaper, etc.): Follow the color change for maximum quality. Superhots take the longest (often 100–150+ days from transplant).
Peppers are edible at any stage once fully formed, but green ones are typically less sweet, more bitter, and milder in heat. Fully ripe ones have more nutrients (like carotenoids) and better developed flavor.
Harvesting suggestions
Use clean pruners/scissors or gently twist/pull upward while supporting the plant to avoid damaging stems/branches. Leave a short stem attached if possible.
Wear gloves with very hot varieties—capsaicin oil can irritate skin and eyes.
Pick regularly as they ripen. This encourages the plant to keep producing more fruit.
Before frost: Harvest everything (even unripe full-sized ones). Fully formed peppers can finish ripening somewhat indoors; tiny ones usually won’t.
Timing reference: Most hot peppers take roughly 70–100+ days from transplant to first ripe fruit (longer for superhots), under good conditions. Individual peppers on the same plant ripen at different times.
Check your specific variety’s expected mature color and size for the best results. Experiment by picking some at different stages to see what you prefer.
Visit Pepper Geek for all you need to know about peppers.
Short-term Pepper Storage
Hot peppers should be refrigerated if you want to keep them fresh for more than a few days.
Counter (1–3 days): Fine only if you plan to use them immediately. Keep them in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Refrigerator (1–3 weeks): Ideal storage temperature is between 40°F and 45°F.
Best Practices for Storing Hot Peppers in the Fridge
Do not wash them beforehand: Moisture encourages mold and rotting. Only wash them right before you are ready to cook or eat them.
Keep stems attached: Leaving the stems intact helps prevent early decay.
Use a breathable bag: Place whole peppers inside a perforated plastic bag or a breathable paper bag. Keep them in the crisper drawer.
Store cut peppers separately: Sliced or chopped hot peppers should go into an airtight container lined with a dry paper towel and used within 3 to 4 days
Freezing Hot Peppers
Unlike many vegetables, hot peppers don’t need to be blanched before freezing. Their color and flavor hold up well with just the basic prep and freezing steps.
Preparation Steps
Wash and dry: Clean the peppers thoroughly in water and pat them 100% dry with a towel so they do not stick together with ice.
Choose whole or cut: Leave small hot peppers (like jalapeños or serranos) whole with stems trimmed, or slice larger hot peppers in halves or slices with stems and seeds removed.
Freezing Methods
Direct Freeze: Place whole or pre-cut peppers straight into a heavy-duty ziploc freezer bag.
Flash Freezing: Lay cut pepper pieces in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet for one hour until frozen solid, then transfer them to a bag to prevent clumping.
Remove Air: Squeeze out as much excess air as possible before sealing the bag tightly to prevent freezer burn.
Curing Hot Peppers
Curing harvested hot peppers primarily means drying them thoroughly so they store well for months or years without molding. Properly dried peppers can be used whole, ground into flakes or powder, or reconstituted later.
Thinner-skinned varieties (cayenne, Thai, tabasco, pequin, etc.) dry most easily. Thicker-walled ones (jalapeños, habaneros, poblanos) need more care—slice them open for better results and lower mold risk.
Preparation
Harvest fully ripe peppers (or near-ripe) and wash them in warm water.
Pat completely dry.
Wear gloves, especially with hot varieties—capsaicin can irritate skin and eyes.
Leave stems on for hanging methods; remove or leave as preferred for trays.
Main Drying Methods
1. Food Dehydrator (fastest and most reliable)
Slice larger/thicker peppers in half lengthwise (seed side up is fine). Leave small thin peppers whole.
Arrange in a single layer with space for airflow.
Set to 125–135°F (about 52–57°C).
Dry 4–12+ hours (check periodically; thinner pieces finish sooner). They’re done when brittle or leathery and snap when bent.
Suggestion: Do this in a garage, outdoors, or well-ventilated area—hot peppers release airborne capsaicin that can irritate eyes, throat, and lungs.
2. Air / Hang Drying (traditional, low-effort) Best in dry climates with low humidity and good airflow. Humid areas risk mold.
Thread a needle with strong string, twine, fishing line, or dental floss.
Push the needle through the stems and space the peppers slightly for air circulation.
Hang in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot (indoors near a window or outdoors in shade/sun if dry and protected from rain).
For a decorative ristra, bunch them more tightly or create a classic hanging string.
Takes 2–6 weeks (or longer). They’re ready when fully dry, wrinkled, and brittle.
Thin-walled peppers work best this way.
3. Oven Drying
Preheat to the lowest setting, ideally 125–150°F (or as low as your oven goes). Prop the door open slightly with a wooden spoon or foil ball for moisture escape.
Slice thicker peppers; leave small ones whole. Place seed-side up on a parchment-lined baking sheet or cooling rack in a single layer.
Dry several hours, rotating/flipping every 30–60 minutes. Watch closely to avoid cooking or burning.
Done when brittle.
4. Sun / Passive Air Drying
In arid, hot climates: spread on screens, trays, or racks in full sun (or a sunny window), turning regularly. Cover lightly to keep dust off.
Small thin peppers can dry on a plate or cooling rack indoors in a warm, dry spot.
Takes 1–3 weeks; bring indoors at night or if humidity rises.
When They’re Fully Cured/Dry
Peppers should feel completely dry, brittle (or leathery for some thicker types), and snap cleanly. Any softness or flexibility means residual moisture that can cause mold in storage.
Storage
Cool completely.
Store whole in airtight glass jars or sealed bags in a cool, dark, dry place.
Properly dried peppers keep 6–12 months or longer (flavor fades over time).
For powder/flakes: grind with a spice grinder, coffee grinder (dedicated if possible), mortar and pestle, or in a bag with a rolling pin. Work in a ventilated area or outdoors—powder is intense.
A few additional thoughts
Discard any that show mold, soft spots, or off smells during drying.
Fully dried peppers can be left hanging as decor and plucked as needed.
Other preservation options (if you don’t want to dry): freeze, pickle, make hot sauce/jelly, or ferment (see below).
Drying concentrates flavor and heat.
Fermented Hot Peppers
Fermenting hot peppers into hot sauce (lacto-fermentation) creates complex, tangy, probiotic-rich sauce with deeper flavor than quick vinegar-based versions. The natural lactic acid bacteria on the peppers convert sugars into lactic acid, lowering pH and preserving the mix while developing funky, fruity notes.
Two main approaches exist: brine fermentation (peppers submerged in salted water—easier for beginners, lower mold risk) and mash fermentation (chopped/salted peppers with little or no added water—more intense, concentrated flavor).
Basic Ingredients & Salt Ratios
Fresh ripe hot peppers (any variety or mix; wash gently but don’t scrub off natural bacteria).
Non-iodized salt (sea salt, kosher, or Himalayan—avoid table salt with iodine or anti-caking agents).
Optional: garlic, onion/shallot, carrot (adds sweetness and aids fermentation), fruit (mango, pineapple), spices.
Filtered or dechlorinated water (chlorine can hinder fermentation).
Salt guidelines (by weight is most accurate):
Brine method: 2.5–5% salt relative to the water (3–3.5% is a popular sweet spot). Example: 30–35 g salt per 1,000 g (1 liter) water.
Mash method: 2–3% salt relative to the weight of the peppers (and any other solids).
Higher salt (around 5%) slows fermentation and helps longer storage; lower salt ferments faster but needs closer monitoring.
Equipment
Clean glass jars (mason jars work well).
Fermentation weights, a small jar, or a cabbage leaf + zip-bag of brine to keep solids submerged.
Optional: airlock lids or loose lids (you must “burp” daily).
Blender or food processor for the finished sauce.
Gloves (recommended for hot varieties).
Step-by-Step: Brine Method (Beginner-Friendly)
Roughly chop or leave peppers whole (remove stems; seeds optional for extra heat). Add garlic, sliced carrot, etc. if desired.
Pack into a clean jar, leaving 1–2 inches headspace.
Dissolve salt in filtered water to make your brine (e.g., 1¼ tsp fine sea salt per cup of water ≈ 3%).
Pour brine over the peppers until fully submerged. Weigh everything down so nothing floats above the liquid.
Cover loosely (or use an airlock). Place the jar in a bowl to catch overflow.
Ferment at room temperature (ideally 65–75°F / 18–24°C) in a spot out of direct sun for 5–14 days (or longer—up to several weeks). Signs of healthy fermentation: bubbles, cloudy brine, pleasant sour/tangy smell. Burp the jar daily if using a solid lid. Skim any white kahm yeast (harmless) if it appears; discard if you see colorful mold or foul smells.
Once it tastes pleasantly sour and the peppers have softened, strain (save the brine). Blend the solids with some of the reserved brine until smooth. Adjust thickness with more brine. Optional: add a splash of vinegar (apple cider or white) for extra tang and shelf stability, plus herbs/spices to taste.
Bottle and refrigerate. It continues to develop slowly in the fridge and keeps for many months (often indefinitely if acidic enough).
Step-by-Step: Mash Method (More Intense Flavor)
Finely chop or roughly blend the peppers (and any add-ins).
Weigh the mixture and mix in 2–3% salt by weight. The salt will draw out liquid.
Pack tightly into a jar, pressing down so the released liquid covers the mash. Top with a weight or plastic wrap pressed against the surface to minimize air contact.
Ferment the same way as above (1–4 weeks). Monitor for mold more carefully—spraying the surface lightly with vinegar can help prevent it.
Blend the finished mash with a bit of the liquid (or added water/vinegar) to sauce consistency.
Finishing & Storage Tips
Taste as you go—fermentation mellows heat over time.
For a thinner Louisiana-style sauce, blend with more brine or vinegar. For thicker sauces (Sriracha-like), use less liquid or add a bit of xanthan gum if desired.
Refrigerate the finished sauce. Leave lids slightly loose or use bottles that can vent, as it may continue producing gas.
pH ideally drops below 4.0–4.6 for safety (optional testing strips help). Adding vinegar after fermentation boosts acidity and stability.
Always start with clean equipment and keep solids under the liquid during fermentation.
Troubleshooting
No activity after a few days → check salt level (too high kills bacteria), water quality, or temperature (too cold slows it).
Mold → usually from floating solids exposed to air. Start over if mold is colored or fuzzy and widespread.
Too salty or too hot at first → it often mellows after a week or two in the fridge.
Fermented hot sauce is very forgiving once you get the salt and submersion right. Start with a small batch of milder peppers (or mix in some bell peppers) to learn the process. The result is a living, flavorful sauce that improves with a bit of age in the fridge. Enjoy experimenting with different pepper varieties and add-ins!
Pickled Hot Peppers
Produces 4 Pint jars of Pickled Peppers
Ingredients
2 lb hot peppers
8 cloves garlic, crushed, peeled
1 tbsp whole black peppercorns
8 allspice berries
2 bay leaves
1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup white wine vinegar
2 1/2 cups water
2 tbsp kosher salt
2 tsp white sugar
1/4 cup olive oil
Instructions
Divide the garlic, black peppercorns, allspice berries and bay leaves equally between four pint mason jars.
Cut your peppers into rounds, or if pickling whole, slice a slit length-wise down the pepper.
Stuff the jars full of peppers.
Combine the vinegars, water, salt and sugar in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil. Whisk to dissolve salt and pepper.
Divide the vinegar solution among the four jars, filling to 1/2″ below the rim. Top each jar with a tablespoon of olive oil.
Cover the jars with two piece lids. Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.
Store for three weeks before eating. Refrigerate after opening.
The Scoville scale measures the capsaicin concentration of chili peppers using Scoville Heat Units (SHU).
The original test was created in 1912 by pharmacist Wilbur Scoville, who mixed pepper extract with sugar water and fed it to a panel of tasters to determine when they could no longer detect the pepper’s heat. The score reflects how many times the extract needed dilution in water. For example, diluting one drop of pepper extract 5,000 times translates to 5,000 SHU. Today, modern labs use high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to measure exact capsaicinoid levels instead of human taste buds.
Pepper Rankings
The current world record holder for the hottest pepper is Pepper X at 2,693,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU).
Extreme Heat (1,000,000+ SHU)
These peppers are classified as “super-hots” and are typically handled with gloves.
Pepper X: 2,693,000 SHU (Current Guinness World Record Holder)
Dragon’s Breath: ~2,480,000 SHU
Carolina Reaper: 1,400,000 to 2,200,000 SHU
Komodo Dragon: 1,400,000 to 2,200,000 SHU
Trinidad Moruga Scorpion: 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 SHU
Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia): 855,000 to 1,041,427 SHU
Very Hot (100,000 to 350,000 SHU)
Popular in Caribbean cooking, these varieties offer an intense, sudden burst of heat.
Red Savina Habanero: 350,000 to 580,000 SHU
Scotch Bonnet: 100,000 to 350,000 SHU
Habanero: 100,000 to 350,000 SHU
Medium Heat (10,000 to 100,000 SHU)
Commonly dried into spices, flaky seasonings, or used raw in hot sauces.
Thai Pepper (Bird’s Eye): 50,000 to 100,000 SHU
Cayenne Pepper: 30,000 to 50,000 SHU
Tabasco Pepper: 30,000 to 50,000 SHU
Serrano Pepper: 10,000 to 25,000 SHU
Mild to No Heat (0 to 10,000 SHU)
Everyday culinary peppers providing flavor with minimal to manageable spice.
On a recent visit to Village Gate in Rochester, we couldn’t resist stepping through the inviting doors of Banner, Wing, & Keel. The shop carries a pleasing selection of small houseplants and cuttings that they call “Pixie Plants”. I was taken by an adorable Leopard Lily and had to bring it home.
You may know the Leopard Lily (Ledebouria socialis) as silver squill or wood hyacinth, a native to the savannas of South Africa.
Ledebouria socialis, commonly known as silver squill, leopard lily, or wood hyacinth, is a popular, easy-to-grow bulbous perennial houseplant prized for its striking foliage.
It grows 6–10 inches tall and wide, forming clumps of teardrop shaped bulbs. The leaves are long, slender, silvery-green with dark green “leopard” spots on top and often purple underneath. In spring, it produces 10 inch vertical stalks with small, greenish-white to pinkish bell-shaped flowers.
The leopard lily is a geophyte, whose bulbs are somewhat exposed and can store moisture for times of drought. While an evergreen, it does have a winter rest period.
The species name socialis refers to its tendency to form dense colonies, while the genus Ledebouria honors the botanist Carl Friedrich von Ledebour.
Cultivation and Care
It is considered a low-maintenance, beginner-friendly houseplant that thrives with minimal care.
Light: Bright indirect light or partial shade (3–4+ hours of bright light daily). Avoid intense direct sun to prevent scorching, but too little light can cause leggy growth and faded colors.
Soil: Well-draining succulent or cactus mix (or houseplant mix amended with pumice/perlite). Neutral pH preferred. Plant bulbs in shallow, wide pots (pan pots), keeping the top half of the bulbs above the soil surface.
Watering: Treat like a succulent. Water moderately during the growing season (spring/summer), letting the top inch or so of soil dry out between waterings. Reduce significantly in winter for its rest period. Overwatering leads to rot.
Temperature: Prefers 60°F+ (normal room temps); hardy in USDA zones 10a–11. Protect from frost.
Fertilizer: Light feeding every 2–3 months during growth with a balanced or cactus fertilizer.
Propagation: Easily propagated by separating the small bulbils (offsets) that form around the main bulbs, best done during repotting in spring. Seeds are possible but less reliable.
Toxicity: All parts of the plant are toxic to humans and pets.
Banner, Wing, & Keel is located at 274 N. Goodman Street in Village Gate. They are open Thursdays – Saturdays 11am – 6pm and Sundays 12pm-4pm.
Ready to harvest your garlic? If the top two leaves of your hardneck garlic stalks have turned brown it’s time to dig them up.
To avoid damaging the garlic bulbs, we use a decent sized trowel and place it in the ground about three inches from the garlic plant’s stalk. With a gentle tug, we pull up on the stalk while simultaneously tilting the trowel back and allowing the bulb to pop free.
Don’t wash the bulbs, just knock off any large clumps of soil. Place the harvested garlic in a single layer or hang them in small bundles. They need a warm but shaded spot that is well-ventilated. A covered porch, shed, or garage are ideal.
Once the stems and roots are entirely brown and crisp, the garlic is ready to be trimmed. Cut the stems about one to two inches above the bulb and trim the roots to about 1/4 inch.
Store the cured bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry location with good air circulation (typically a mesh bag). Hardneck garlic can be stored for two to four months, but in the right conditions it may last longer.
Spreading mulch on your garden beads, not only improves soil health, it helps conserves water, and enhances your landscape appearance. It acts as a protective barrier that reduces evaporation, blocks weeds, and balances root temperatures. However, when applying mulch to your garden beds, there are a few safety concerns to consider.
In late May and early June there are often deals to be had on bags or bulk truck loads of mulch. Typically the inexpensive mulch found at your local garden center is made from recycled wood waste (such as chipped pallets or scrap wood) that is tinted to give it a uniform color. While inexpensive brands of mulch are cost effective, they may not have undergone the same level of screening that more premium brands undertake.
On occasion you may find a stray piece of plastic or other foreign objects as you lay the mulch on your garden beds. What you may not anticipate is finding sharp pieces of broken glass in your mulch like I did yesterday.
We recommend wearing heavy duty work gloves while spreading mulch. The gloves will help protect your hands and also keep your hands from becoming stained by the mulches dyes.
Visit our Materials Calculator to get an approximate idea of how much mulch you will need.
Reasons to mulch:
Soil and Plant Health
Moisture retention: Mulch blocks sun and wind to slow down water evaporation.
Temperature regulation: It keeps roots cooler during hot summers and insulates against winter freezes.
Nutrient replenishment: Decomposing organic mulch feeds beneficial soil microbes and deposits nutrients back into the dirt.
Erosion prevention: The layer absorbs the impact of heavy rain droplets to stop topsoil from washing away.
Disease reduction: It stops muddy water from splashing soil-borne pathogens onto plant foliage.
Garden Maintenance
Weed suppression: A dense layer blocks sunlight from reaching weed seeds, stopping germination.
Less watering: Improved water retention means spending less time and money on irrigation.
Equipment barrier: It creates a designated perimeter that protects trees and shrubs from mower and string trimmer damage.
Aesthetic Value
Curb appeal: Fresh mulch immediately makes plant beds and borders look clean, neat, and professional.
Visual contrast: The dark, uniform texture highlights the vibrant colors of flowers and green foliage.
Can I compost this? Citrus? Shrimp shells? Corks? Stink bugs? Whether or not to put these unusual items on your compost heap.
Can I compost wine corks?
Reveal/Hide Answer
Yes! You can compost wine corks—but only if they’re natural cork (from the bark of cork oak trees). These are 100% biodegradable, carbon-rich "browns" that add great long-term structure and nutrients to your pile as they slowly break down.
Natural vs. Synthetic
Natural corks — Look and feel like real wood/bark: lightweight, porous, crumbly when cut, with a natural grain. Slice one open—if it’s uniform light tan/brown throughout and smells woody, it’s natural and compostable. Synthetic corks — Made of plastic, foam, or silicone (common in cheaper wines): smooth, uniform color (often bright white/yellow), feel rubbery/plasticky, and don’t crumble. Do not compost these—they won’t break down and could release microplastics. Trash them or upcycle (crafts, bulletin boards, etc.).
Composting Best Practices
Prep them — Cork is tough and naturally water-resistant (that’s why it seals bottles!), so whole corks can take months to years to fully decompose in a backyard pile.
To speed things up: Chop, slice, or grind them.
Bury pieces in the center of the pile and mix with other browns (leaves, shredded paper) and greens (kitchen scraps) for balance. This prevents them from just sitting there.
I don’t compost corks because they’re useful for other things like backdrops for shelves.
Cheers! 🍷
Can I compost teabags?
Reveal/Hide Answer
Possibly not.
As of March 2026, while a number of prominent tea manufactures have moved away from non-compostable tea-bags, some have moved to polylactic-acic (PLA) bioplastics, which can be composted but require the high heat of an industrial facility and won’t break down in most home composters piles.
Polylactic acid (PLA) is a biodegradable, bio-based thermoplastic derived from materials like corn starch, sugarcane, or tapioca.
Beyond the compostability of the teabags there is also the concern that bioplastic teabags potentially release nanoplastic particles into your cup while the tea is steeping and into the ground when breaking down like traditional polypropylene plastics do.
Not Compostable Most surprisingly, the company most American’s would associate with all natural teas, Celestial Seasonings uses plastic in their teabags (food-grade polypropylene plastic fibers derived from fossil fuels). Celestial Seasonings Tea Lipton Tea Tetley Tea
Can I compost stink bugs?
Reveal/Hide Answer
Yes! Stink bugs are perfectly fine to add to a compost heap in small to moderate quantities. They’re 100% natural organic material—mostly chitin exoskeleton and proteins—so they break down just like any other dead insect, contributing nitrogen and becoming part of the nutrient cycle.
Insects are a normal part of healthy compost: Decomposers (bacteria, fungi, worms, etc.) routinely process dead bugs in soil and piles. They add minor nutrients (like nitrogen) and don’t introduce pathogens harmful to compost or plants when dead.
Bury them in the pile: Toss dead ones into the center or mix them under a layer of browns (leaves, shredded paper, etc.) to speed breakdown and prevent any temporary odor or attraction of flies/scavengers.
Keep quantities small: A handful here and there is no problem. If you’re vacuuming up dozens during an invasion, add them gradually rather than dumping a big batch at once—too many at once could create a temporary “hot spot” or slight stink as they break down (though nothing like live ones spraying).
Method: If they died naturally, or you used soap/water or vacuumed them up, there are no residue issues. Avoid composting bugs killed with pesticides or chemical sprays, as those could harm beneficial compost organisms (e.g., worms or microbes).
Can I compost a Yankee cap?
Reveal/Hide Answer
No! Alas, as a Blue Jays fan, I’d love to compost Yankee caps but like most modern baseball caps, including the Official New Era Yankees caps, they are usually made from:
Polyester (often the primary fabric, especially in performance or modern versions—sometimes 100% polyester or high blends).
Cotton twill (in some relaxed or “Clean Up” styles from brands like ’47, often have 100% cotton or high cotton content still have synthetic components hidden in seams, linings, or the brim reinforcement).
Cotton-polyester blends (e.g., 40% cotton / 60% polyester in some models).
with other elements like: Plastic snaps/buttons (on adjustable backs), synthetic threading, embroidered logos (with plastic-like stabilizers or threads), foam/viscose in the bill (stiffener), and sometimes metal eyelets or tags.
Why It Won’t Compost Well:
Polyester and synthetics are basically plastic—they don’t biodegrade in a home compost pile (or even most industrial ones). They can persist for hundreds of years, potentially releasing microplastics into your finished compost/soil.
Non-natural additives (dyes, treatments, glues, or stiffeners) may not break down and could introduce unwanted chemicals.
Even if mostly cotton, the synthetic bits contaminate the pile—best practice is “when in doubt, leave it out” for clothing/textiles in home composting.
Pure 100% natural-fiber items (like undyed cotton rags with no blends/synthetics) can go in compost, but that’s rare for mass-produced hats.
Can I compost Citrus fruit?
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Yes! You can indead compost citrus fruit (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, etc.—including peels, whole fruit, or scraps) in a home compost heap. It’s a common myth that you shouldn’t, but that’s largely debunked by gardeners, composting experts, and extension services.
The old concerns were:
Too acidic — Citrus is acidic when fresh, but in a balanced compost pile, the pH neutralizes quickly as microbes break it down. It won’t make your finished compost overly acidic unless citrus is the overwhelming majority of what you’re adding (which is unlikely in a normal kitchen/yard setup).
Harmful to worms — The oils (like limonene in peels) can irritate composting worms (especially red wigglers in vermicompost bins) if added in huge amounts, making them avoid the area or slow down. But in a regular outdoor pile, earthworms can just move away temporarily if needed, and the pile still decomposes fine. Worms usually join later in the process anyway, after initial breakdown.
Slow to break down — Peels are tough and waxy, so they take longer than softer scraps (months instead of weeks), but they do eventually decompose fully.
Best practices:
Chop or shred peels into smaller pieces—this speeds things up a lot.
Mix well — Bury citrus scraps in the center of the pile under layers of “browns” (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) to balance the “green” nitrogen from the fruit and prevent any temporary smell or mold.
Moderate amounts — A few peels or a couple of fruits here and there? Totally fine. If you’re juicing a ton, add them gradually and turn the pile to aerate and heat it up.
Hot vs. cold composting — In a hot, active pile (turned regularly), citrus breaks down faster. In a slower cold pile (common in colder NY winters), it still works but takes longer—freeze-thaw cycles actually help by breaking down cell walls over time.
Pest deterrent bonus — The strong citrus smell can actually help repel some rodents or flies from raiding the pile.
If you’re using a worm bin (vermicomposting) indoors, though, go easy on citrus—small amounts only, or skip it to keep the worms happy.
Can I compost Shrimp Shells?
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Yes!
Not sure I would add them to my compost heap, but yes, you can compost shrimp shells (including heads, tails, and bodies) in a backyard compost heap—they’re a great organic addition that breaks down over time and provides valuable nutrients like nitrogen, calcium, and chitin (which can benefit soil health and even help suppress some plant pests/pathogens as it decomposes).
Shrimp shells are considered a "green" material (nitrogen-rich), similar to kitchen scraps or grass clippings, and they fit well into balanced compost piles. They add nitrogen for microbial activity and calcium/chitin that enriches finished compost (chitin promotes beneficial fungi and can improve soil structure).
Potential Downsides
The main concerns are temporary odor (fishy smell during initial breakdown) and attracting pests (flies, rodents, raccoons, or neighborhood animals).
To minimize problems Bury them deep — Dig a hole or trench in the center of your pile, add the shells, mix with existing material, and cover with a thick layer of "browns" (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard, straw) to absorb moisture/odors and block access. Crush or chop them — Break shells into smaller pieces (use a hammer, rolling pin in a bag, or food processor/blender for dried ones) to speed decomposition (whole shells can take months to years). Pre-treat if possible — Rinse off any sauces/butter first. Some folks boil shells briefly (20–30 minutes) to reduce smell and kill bacteria, then dry them (sun-dry or oven) until crisp before adding—this makes them less attractive to pests and easier to crush. Add in moderation — A handful or two at a time is ideal; avoid dumping large quantities all at once, as that can create a smelly, anaerobic spot. Balance the pile — Mix with plenty of carbon-rich browns and turn/aerate regularly to keep it hot and active (heat helps break down faster and reduces odors). Pest-proof your setup — If rodents are an issue, use a enclosed bin/tumbler with a secure lid, or bury shells extra deep (12+ inches). Avoid leaving exposed scraps on top.
Can I compost Walnuts?
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Well…technically Yes, A number of state extensions and other experts say that walnuts, even black walnut tree materials can be composted as long as the heap reaches a high internal temperature and the material is in the heap for at least six months.
Walnut trees (especially Black Walnut trees) contain a chemical called juglone that can adversely affect a number of garden plants including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rhubarb, columbine and others.
Butternut, pecan, hickory, and English walnut trees also contain the compound but in smaller amounts.
Our recommendation would be to use caution. There are plenty of other materials to compost, so why fiddle with walnuts?
Can I compost a Curling stone?
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ah…No!
Did you really have to click to reveal this? It’s made of flippin’ granite!
No, you cannot compost a curling stone because it is made of granite, typically sourced from Ailsa Craig in Scotland., not organic matter. Compost is for material that breaks down, and while the rock won’t harm your compost pile, it will not decompose, even over several thousand years. As a rock, it is inorganic material and will remain in your compost pile unchanged.
Can I compost Marmite?
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Yes, You can compost Marmite — in small amounts, it should break down just fine in a home compost pile.
Marmite is basically a concentrated yeast extract (from brewer’s yeast), mixed with salt, some vegetable extracts, and spices. Yeast and its byproducts are organic and fully biodegradable:
Plain yeast (or spent brewer’s yeast) is routinely added to compost piles or used as a compost activator/fertilizer by homebrewers and gardeners — it provides nitrogen and feeds the microbes that do the decomposing work. The main "issue" is the high salt content. Too much salt at once can temporarily harm soil microbes or make the compost a bit saline if you add large quantities.
Suggested Use:
Scrape small leftover amounts (e.g., residue from a jar, a spoonful or two into your compost — it will disappear quickly.
Mix it in well with other materials (greens like veggie scraps + browns like leaves/cardboard) to dilute the salt.
Avoid dumping a whole jar or large volumes at once — that much salt could slow things down or attract unwanted attention from animals (though Marmite’s strong smell might actually deter some pests rather than attract them).
If your compost is a bokashi system or worm bin (vermicomposting), go very light or skip it — worms can be sensitive to high salt.
People even use tiny bits of yeast extract spreads like Marmite or Vegemite diluted in water as a quick microbial boost for compost teas or as a plant fertilizer in some gardening circles.
A bit of Marmite in the compost? Totally fine and even mildly beneficial. A whole jar? Would be a waste of lovely marmite! It would be better to avoid or dilute heavily first.
Keep your poinsettias looking good through Christmas!
Our poinsettia care tips that will help keep your plants looking festive for months to come.
Selection
As many poinsettias are purchased at grocery stores and home improvement centers, they may not have been receiving the best of care since leaving the greenhouses where they were raised.
When selecting a poinsettia, try to find a plant with tight greenish flower buds. If the buds have turned yellow and have separated, the plant has likely been blooming for a while and may not be at its peak for Christmas.
The small bud clusters known as cyathia, are the actual flowers of a poinsettia, the brightly colored leaves are called bracts.
If the plant’s foil wrapping is in the way, pull it back and look at the lower leaves. If they are yellowing or appear close to dropping off, select a different plant.
Watering
The poinsettias I recently saw at a nearby Tops supermarket were literally floating in their decorative foil wrappings due to over watering.
Once you have your plant home, its best to either remove any foil wrappings or to poke holes in the foil covering the bottom of the pot to allow for drainage.
Poinsettias prefer consistent light watering. They don’t like sitting in water but they really don’t like being left to dry out.
Poke the top of the soil with your finger every few days. If it the soil feels dry to the touch, give the plant a light watering. If your poinsettia has been placed on a saucer, tip out any excess water that accumulates.
It can’t hurt to mist your plants every few days to provide a bit of humidity.
Light and Temperature
Poinsettias are native to Mexico so they prefer as many hours of sunlight a day as possible. While poinsettias can tolerate full sun, indirect light is preferred. They enjoy temperatures between 65 and 70°F but not warmer.
Avoid placing your poinsettia in drafty locations, near frequently opened doorways, or in contact with icy windows. Just to make things more difficult, heating vents, wood burning stoves, and other heat sources should also be avoided.
50°F is about the lowest temperature poinsettias can tolerate, so when bringing your plants home from the store be sure to cover them before bringing them out into the cold air.
Poinsettia Care into the new year
Even though the stockings, ornaments, and inflatable grinches will be packed away, your poinsettia can remain a bright accent in your home for months to come.
By late February or early March, if your plant begins to drop leaves and is looking a little worse for wear, cut the plants flowering stems back to about 6 inches in length to promote new growth.
If all is going well, just prior to the start of summer, repot your poinsettia into a container 2″-3″ larger.
During the summer, place your poinsettia on a nice sunny porch or similar location, as your plant will benefit from the outdoor humidity.
With any luck you will have a healthy but green bracted poinsettia.
Photoperiodic Induction
In order for poinsettias to achieve that familiar bright red color, they need darkness, at least 12-14 hours of absolute, uninterrupted darkness every night. Even the briefest flash of light can interfere with the process.
September 10th is the optimal date to begin the photoperiodic induction process in order to have a bright red poinsettia by Christmas.
During the day, the plant will still require bright light for about 8-10 hours to stay healthy.
From scratch
Most commercial growers produce their hybrid poinsettias from stem cuttings, but it is possible to grow poinsettias from seed but they rarely resemble their parent. Seeds also require a period of cold-stratification for the seeds to germinate.
Enjoy your poinettias!
Merry Christmas from all of us here at Shortmeadows.
With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.
For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!
I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?
Marty C.
Hi Marty, Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.
Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.
Hope it flowers soon!
Hi Zoe,
Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?
Cynthia H.
Hi Cynthia, Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.
Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.
Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.
Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.
Happy Growing!
Zoe,
Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?
Carol J.
Hi Carol, I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.
Zoe,
Is it too late to plant poppies?
Mary R.
Hi Mary, Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.
Hi Zoe,
Where do you buy your plants?
Renee M.
Hi Renee, It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.
In my garden, after a rainfall, you can faintly, yes, hear the breaking of new blooms.
Truman Capote
The optimist
The optimist sees the rose and not its thorns; the pessimist stares at the thorns, oblivious to the rose.
Khalil Gibran
After women
After women, flowers are the most lovely thing God has given the world.
Christian Dior
Love is like wildflowers
Love is like wildflowers; it's often found in the most unlikely places.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
Where flowers bloom
Where flowers bloom so does hope.
Lady Bird Johnson
Let us live like flowers
Let us live like flowers, wild and beautiful and drenched in sun.
Ellen Everett
A flower blossoms
A flower blossoms for its own joy.
Oscar Wilde
The garden suggests
The garden suggests there might be a place where we can meet nature halfway.
Michael Pollan
Coffee. Garden. Coffee.
Coffee. Garden. Coffee. Does a good morning need anything else?
Betsy Caas Garmon
No Gardening Mistakes
There are no gardening mistakes, only experiments.
Janet Kilburn Phillips
The hum of bees
The hum of bees is the voice of the garden.
Elizabeth Lawrence
When the world wearies
When the world wearies and society fails to satisfy, there is always the garden.
Minnie Aumonier
There is nothing that is comparable
There is nothing that is comparable to it, as satisfactory or as thrilling as gathering vegetables one has grown.
Alice B. Toklas
To plant a garden
To plant a garden is to dream of tomorrow.
Audrey Hepburn
Help us to be ever faithful
Help us to be ever faithful gardeners of the spirit, who know that without darkness nothing comes to birth, and without light nothing flowers.
May Sarton
I grow plants for many reasons
I grow plants for many reasons: to please my eye or to please my soul, to challenge the elements or to challenge my patience, for novelty or for nostalgia, but mostly for the joy in seeing them grow.
David Hobson
The Glory of Gardening
The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul.
Alfred Austin
Flowers are the Music
Flowers are the music of the ground from earth's lips spoken without sound.