When to pick hot peppers

Plus suggestions for storing, curing, fermenting, pickling, and ranking your hot peppers

Hot Peppers

So just when do you pick those hot peppers?

To determine when hot peppers are ready to be picked requires observation of the peppers color, size, firmness, and (for some varieties) corking. They can be harvested green or fully ripe, depending on the variety and the flavor/heat level you’re looking for.

Primary signs of readiness

  • Color change: Most start green and turn their mature color (red, orange, yellow, etc.). This is the clearest sign of full ripeness. Fully colored peppers generally have better flavor, more sweetness, and higher heat (more developed capsaicin). Peak heat often occurs just as they begin changing color.
  • Full size: The pepper has reached the expected mature size for its variety (check the seed packet) and has stopped growing larger. Homegrown ones may be a bit smaller than store-bought.
  • Firmness and feel: The pepper should feel firm (not soft or wrinkled, unless slightly soft when fully ripe on some types). It often pulls or snaps off the plant more easily when ready.
  • Corking (common on jalapeños and some other hot peppers): These look like white/tan/brown stretch marks or fine cracks on the skin. They form when the pepper grows faster than its skin can stretch. Corking is normal, harmless, and often signals maturity, good flavor, and higher heat. Many growers prefer corked jalapeños.

Variety-specific considerations

  • Jalapeños: Often picked green (deeper green color, full size, ideally with some corking) for the classic savory/smoky flavor. They can turn nearly black then bright red; red ones are sweeter and can be hotter. Wait 1–2 weeks after full size if picking green.
  • Habaneros: Best when fully colored (usually bright orange or red, depending on the type). Green ones lack the full floral flavor and heat—be patient.
  • Cayenne and similar thin/hot types: Harvest when fully bright red for best flavor and heat. Green ones are milder and less flavorful.
  • Other hot peppers (serranos, Thai, superhots like ghost/reaper, etc.): Follow the color change for maximum quality. Superhots take the longest (often 100–150+ days from transplant).

Peppers are edible at any stage once fully formed, but green ones are typically less sweet, more bitter, and milder in heat. Fully ripe ones have more nutrients (like carotenoids) and better developed flavor.

Harvesting suggestions

  • Use clean pruners/scissors or gently twist/pull upward while supporting the plant to avoid damaging stems/branches. Leave a short stem attached if possible.
  • Wear gloves with very hot varieties—capsaicin oil can irritate skin and eyes.
  • Pick regularly as they ripen. This encourages the plant to keep producing more fruit.
  • Before frost: Harvest everything (even unripe full-sized ones). Fully formed peppers can finish ripening somewhat indoors; tiny ones usually won’t.

Timing reference: Most hot peppers take roughly 70–100+ days from transplant to first ripe fruit (longer for superhots), under good conditions. Individual peppers on the same plant ripen at different times.

Check your specific variety’s expected mature color and size for the best results. Experiment by picking some at different stages to see what you prefer.

Visit Pepper Geek for all you need to know about peppers.


Short-term Pepper Storage

Hot peppers should be refrigerated if you want to keep them fresh for more than a few days.

  • Counter (1–3 days): Fine only if you plan to use them immediately. Keep them in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
  • Refrigerator (1–3 weeks): Ideal storage temperature is between 40°F and 45°F. 

Best Practices for Storing Hot Peppers in the Fridge

  • Do not wash them beforehand: Moisture encourages mold and rotting. Only wash them right before you are ready to cook or eat them.
  • Keep stems attached: Leaving the stems intact helps prevent early decay.
  • Use a breathable bag: Place whole peppers inside a perforated plastic bag or a breathable paper bag. Keep them in the crisper drawer.
  • Store cut peppers separately: Sliced or chopped hot peppers should go into an airtight container lined with a dry paper towel and used within 3 to 4 days

Freezing Hot Peppers

Unlike many vegetables, hot peppers don’t need to be blanched before freezing. Their color and flavor hold up well with just the basic prep and freezing steps.

Preparation Steps

  • Wash and dry: Clean the peppers thoroughly in water and pat them 100% dry with a towel so they do not stick together with ice.
  • Choose whole or cut: Leave small hot peppers (like jalapeños or serranos) whole with stems trimmed, or slice larger hot peppers in halves or slices with stems and seeds removed.

Freezing Methods

  • Direct Freeze: Place whole or pre-cut peppers straight into a heavy-duty ziploc freezer bag.
  • Flash Freezing: Lay cut pepper pieces in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet for one hour until frozen solid, then transfer them to a bag to prevent clumping.
  • Remove Air: Squeeze out as much excess air as possible before sealing the bag tightly to prevent freezer burn.

Curing Hot Peppers

Curing harvested hot peppers primarily means drying them thoroughly so they store well for months or years without molding. Properly dried peppers can be used whole, ground into flakes or powder, or reconstituted later.

Thinner-skinned varieties (cayenne, Thai, tabasco, pequin, etc.) dry most easily. Thicker-walled ones (jalapeños, habaneros, poblanos) need more care—slice them open for better results and lower mold risk.

Preparation

  • Harvest fully ripe peppers (or near-ripe) and wash them in warm water.
  • Pat completely dry.
  • Wear gloves, especially with hot varieties—capsaicin can irritate skin and eyes.
  • Leave stems on for hanging methods; remove or leave as preferred for trays.

Main Drying Methods

1. Food Dehydrator (fastest and most reliable)

  • Slice larger/thicker peppers in half lengthwise (seed side up is fine). Leave small thin peppers whole.
  • Arrange in a single layer with space for airflow.
  • Set to 125–135°F (about 52–57°C).
  • Dry 4–12+ hours (check periodically; thinner pieces finish sooner). They’re done when brittle or leathery and snap when bent.
  • Suggestion: Do this in a garage, outdoors, or well-ventilated area—hot peppers release airborne capsaicin that can irritate eyes, throat, and lungs.

2. Air / Hang Drying (traditional, low-effort)
Best in dry climates with low humidity and good airflow. Humid areas risk mold.

  • Thread a needle with strong string, twine, fishing line, or dental floss.
  • Push the needle through the stems and space the peppers slightly for air circulation.
  • Hang in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot (indoors near a window or outdoors in shade/sun if dry and protected from rain).
  • For a decorative ristra, bunch them more tightly or create a classic hanging string.
  • Takes 2–6 weeks (or longer). They’re ready when fully dry, wrinkled, and brittle.
  • Thin-walled peppers work best this way.

3. Oven Drying

  • Preheat to the lowest setting, ideally 125–150°F (or as low as your oven goes). Prop the door open slightly with a wooden spoon or foil ball for moisture escape.
  • Slice thicker peppers; leave small ones whole. Place seed-side up on a parchment-lined baking sheet or cooling rack in a single layer.
  • Dry several hours, rotating/flipping every 30–60 minutes. Watch closely to avoid cooking or burning.
  • Done when brittle.

4. Sun / Passive Air Drying

  • In arid, hot climates: spread on screens, trays, or racks in full sun (or a sunny window), turning regularly. Cover lightly to keep dust off.
  • Small thin peppers can dry on a plate or cooling rack indoors in a warm, dry spot.
  • Takes 1–3 weeks; bring indoors at night or if humidity rises.

When They’re Fully Cured/Dry

Peppers should feel completely dry, brittle (or leathery for some thicker types), and snap cleanly. Any softness or flexibility means residual moisture that can cause mold in storage.

Storage

  • Cool completely.
  • Store whole in airtight glass jars or sealed bags in a cool, dark, dry place.
  • Properly dried peppers keep 6–12 months or longer (flavor fades over time).
  • For powder/flakes: grind with a spice grinder, coffee grinder (dedicated if possible), mortar and pestle, or in a bag with a rolling pin. Work in a ventilated area or outdoors—powder is intense.

A few additional thoughts

  • Discard any that show mold, soft spots, or off smells during drying.
  • Fully dried peppers can be left hanging as decor and plucked as needed.
  • Other preservation options (if you don’t want to dry): freeze, pickle, make hot sauce/jelly, or ferment (see below).
  • Drying concentrates flavor and heat.

Fermented Hot Peppers

Fermenting hot peppers into hot sauce (lacto-fermentation) creates complex, tangy, probiotic-rich sauce with deeper flavor than quick vinegar-based versions. The natural lactic acid bacteria on the peppers convert sugars into lactic acid, lowering pH and preserving the mix while developing funky, fruity notes.

Two main approaches exist: brine fermentation (peppers submerged in salted water—easier for beginners, lower mold risk) and mash fermentation (chopped/salted peppers with little or no added water—more intense, concentrated flavor).

Basic Ingredients & Salt Ratios

  • Fresh ripe hot peppers (any variety or mix; wash gently but don’t scrub off natural bacteria).
  • Non-iodized salt (sea salt, kosher, or Himalayan—avoid table salt with iodine or anti-caking agents).
  • Optional: garlic, onion/shallot, carrot (adds sweetness and aids fermentation), fruit (mango, pineapple), spices.
  • Filtered or dechlorinated water (chlorine can hinder fermentation).

Salt guidelines (by weight is most accurate):

  • Brine method: 2.5–5% salt relative to the water (3–3.5% is a popular sweet spot). Example: 30–35 g salt per 1,000 g (1 liter) water.
  • Mash method: 2–3% salt relative to the weight of the peppers (and any other solids).
  • Higher salt (around 5%) slows fermentation and helps longer storage; lower salt ferments faster but needs closer monitoring.

Equipment

  • Clean glass jars (mason jars work well).
  • Fermentation weights, a small jar, or a cabbage leaf + zip-bag of brine to keep solids submerged.
  • Optional: airlock lids or loose lids (you must “burp” daily).
  • Blender or food processor for the finished sauce.
  • Gloves (recommended for hot varieties).

Step-by-Step: Brine Method (Beginner-Friendly)

  1. Roughly chop or leave peppers whole (remove stems; seeds optional for extra heat). Add garlic, sliced carrot, etc. if desired.
  2. Pack into a clean jar, leaving 1–2 inches headspace.
  3. Dissolve salt in filtered water to make your brine (e.g., 1¼ tsp fine sea salt per cup of water ≈ 3%).
  4. Pour brine over the peppers until fully submerged. Weigh everything down so nothing floats above the liquid.
  5. Cover loosely (or use an airlock). Place the jar in a bowl to catch overflow.
  6. Ferment at room temperature (ideally 65–75°F / 18–24°C) in a spot out of direct sun for 5–14 days (or longer—up to several weeks).
    Signs of healthy fermentation: bubbles, cloudy brine, pleasant sour/tangy smell.
    Burp the jar daily if using a solid lid. Skim any white kahm yeast (harmless) if it appears; discard if you see colorful mold or foul smells.
  7. Once it tastes pleasantly sour and the peppers have softened, strain (save the brine). Blend the solids with some of the reserved brine until smooth. Adjust thickness with more brine. Optional: add a splash of vinegar (apple cider or white) for extra tang and shelf stability, plus herbs/spices to taste.
  8. Bottle and refrigerate. It continues to develop slowly in the fridge and keeps for many months (often indefinitely if acidic enough).

Step-by-Step: Mash Method (More Intense Flavor)

  1. Finely chop or roughly blend the peppers (and any add-ins).
  2. Weigh the mixture and mix in 2–3% salt by weight. The salt will draw out liquid.
  3. Pack tightly into a jar, pressing down so the released liquid covers the mash. Top with a weight or plastic wrap pressed against the surface to minimize air contact.
  4. Ferment the same way as above (1–4 weeks). Monitor for mold more carefully—spraying the surface lightly with vinegar can help prevent it.
  5. Blend the finished mash with a bit of the liquid (or added water/vinegar) to sauce consistency.

Finishing & Storage Tips

  • Taste as you go—fermentation mellows heat over time.
  • For a thinner Louisiana-style sauce, blend with more brine or vinegar. For thicker sauces (Sriracha-like), use less liquid or add a bit of xanthan gum if desired.
  • Refrigerate the finished sauce. Leave lids slightly loose or use bottles that can vent, as it may continue producing gas.
  • pH ideally drops below 4.0–4.6 for safety (optional testing strips help). Adding vinegar after fermentation boosts acidity and stability.
  • Always start with clean equipment and keep solids under the liquid during fermentation.

Troubleshooting

  • No activity after a few days → check salt level (too high kills bacteria), water quality, or temperature (too cold slows it).
  • Mold → usually from floating solids exposed to air. Start over if mold is colored or fuzzy and widespread.
  • Too salty or too hot at first → it often mellows after a week or two in the fridge.

Fermented hot sauce is very forgiving once you get the salt and submersion right. Start with a small batch of milder peppers (or mix in some bell peppers) to learn the process. The result is a living, flavorful sauce that improves with a bit of age in the fridge. Enjoy experimenting with different pepper varieties and add-ins!


Pickled Hot Peppers

Produces 4 Pint jars of Pickled Peppers

Ingredients

  • 2 lb hot peppers
  • 8 cloves garlic, crushed, peeled
  • 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns
  • 8 allspice berries
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
  • 1 cup white wine vinegar
  • 2 1/2 cups water
  • 2 tbsp kosher salt
  • 2 tsp white sugar
  • 1/4 cup olive oil

Instructions

  • Divide the garlic, black peppercorns, allspice berries and bay leaves equally between four pint mason jars.
  • Cut your peppers into rounds, or if pickling whole, slice a slit length-wise down the pepper.
  • Stuff the jars full of peppers.
  • Combine the vinegars, water, salt and sugar in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil. Whisk to dissolve salt and pepper.
  • Divide the vinegar solution among the four jars, filling to 1/2″ below the rim. Top each jar with a tablespoon of olive oil.
  • Cover the jars with two piece lids. Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.
  • Store for three weeks before eating. Refrigerate after opening.

Hot Sauce Recipes


Scoville Pepper Heat Rankings

The Scoville scale measures the capsaicin concentration of chili peppers using Scoville Heat Units (SHU).

The original test was created in 1912 by pharmacist Wilbur Scoville, who mixed pepper extract with sugar water and fed it to a panel of tasters to determine when they could no longer detect the pepper’s heat. The score reflects how many times the extract needed dilution in water. For example, diluting one drop of pepper extract 5,000 times translates to 5,000 SHU. Today, modern labs use high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to measure exact capsaicinoid levels instead of human taste buds.

Pepper Rankings

The current world record holder for the hottest pepper is Pepper X at 2,693,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU).

These peppers are classified as “super-hots” and are typically handled with gloves.

  • Pepper X: 2,693,000 SHU (Current Guinness World Record Holder)
  • Dragon’s Breath: ~2,480,000 SHU
  • Carolina Reaper: 1,400,000 to 2,200,000 SHU
  • Komodo Dragon: 1,400,000 to 2,200,000 SHU
  • Trinidad Moruga Scorpion: 1,200,000 to 2,000,000 SHU
  • Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia): 855,000 to 1,041,427 SHU

Popular in Caribbean cooking, these varieties offer an intense, sudden burst of heat.

  • Red Savina Habanero: 350,000 to 580,000 SHU
  • Scotch Bonnet: 100,000 to 350,000 SHU
  • Habanero: 100,000 to 350,000 SHU

Commonly dried into spices, flaky seasonings, or used raw in hot sauces.

  • Thai Pepper (Bird’s Eye): 50,000 to 100,000 SHU
  • Cayenne Pepper: 30,000 to 50,000 SHU
  • Tabasco Pepper: 30,000 to 50,000 SHU
  • Serrano Pepper: 10,000 to 25,000 SHU

Everyday culinary peppers providing flavor with minimal to manageable spice.

  • Fresno Chili: 2,500 to 10,000 SHU
  • Jalapeño: 2,000 to 8,000 SHU
  • Poblano (Ancho): 1,000 to 2,000 SHU
  • Pepperoncini: 100 to 500 SHU
  • Bell Pepper: 0 SHU

Leopard Lily

The Leopard Lily

On a recent visit to Village Gate in Rochester, we couldn’t resist stepping through the inviting doors of Banner, Wing, & Keel. The shop carries a pleasing selection of small houseplants and cuttings that they call “Pixie Plants”. I was taken by an adorable Leopard Lily and had to bring it home.

You may know the Leopard Lily (Ledebouria socialis) as silver squill or wood hyacinth, a native to the savannas of South Africa.

Ledebouria socialis, commonly known as silver squill, leopard lily, or wood hyacinth, is a popular, easy-to-grow bulbous perennial houseplant prized for its striking foliage.

It grows 6–10 inches tall and wide, forming clumps of teardrop shaped bulbs. The leaves are long, slender, silvery-green with dark green “leopard” spots on top and often purple underneath. In spring, it produces 10 inch vertical stalks with small, greenish-white to pinkish bell-shaped flowers.

The leopard lily is a geophyte, whose bulbs are somewhat exposed and can store moisture for times of drought. While an evergreen, it does have a winter rest period.

The species name socialis refers to its tendency to form dense colonies, while the genus Ledebouria honors the botanist Carl Friedrich von Ledebour.

Cultivation and Care

It is considered a low-maintenance, beginner-friendly houseplant that thrives with minimal care.

  • Light: Bright indirect light or partial shade (3–4+ hours of bright light daily). Avoid intense direct sun to prevent scorching, but too little light can cause leggy growth and faded colors.
  • Soil: Well-draining succulent or cactus mix (or houseplant mix amended with pumice/perlite). Neutral pH preferred. Plant bulbs in shallow, wide pots (pan pots), keeping the top half of the bulbs above the soil surface. 

  • Watering: Treat like a succulent. Water moderately during the growing season (spring/summer), letting the top inch or so of soil dry out between waterings. Reduce significantly in winter for its rest period. Overwatering leads to rot.
  • Temperature: Prefers 60°F+ (normal room temps); hardy in USDA zones 10a–11. Protect from frost.
  • Fertilizer: Light feeding every 2–3 months during growth with a balanced or cactus fertilizer.
  • Propagation: Easily propagated by separating the small bulbils (offsets) that form around the main bulbs, best done during repotting in spring. Seeds are possible but less reliable.
  • Toxicity: All parts of the plant are toxic to humans and pets.

Banner, Wing, & Keel is located at 274 N. Goodman Street in Village Gate. They are open Thursdays – Saturdays 11am – 6pm and Sundays 12pm-4pm.

Garlic Harvest

Ready to harvest your garlic? If the top two leaves of your hardneck garlic stalks have turned brown it’s time to dig them up.

To avoid damaging the garlic bulbs, we use a decent sized trowel and place it in the ground about three inches from the garlic plant’s stalk. With a gentle tug, we pull up on the stalk while simultaneously tilting the trowel back and allowing the bulb to pop free.

Don’t wash the bulbs, just knock off any large clumps of soil. Place the harvested garlic in a single layer or hang them in small bundles. They need a warm but shaded spot that is well-ventilated. A covered porch, shed, or garage are ideal.

Once the stems and roots are entirely brown and crisp, the garlic is ready to be trimmed. Cut the stems about one to two inches above the bulb and trim the roots to about 1/4 inch.

Store the cured bulbs in a cool, dark, and dry location with good air circulation (typically a mesh bag). Hardneck garlic can be stored for two to four months, but in the right conditions it may last longer.

Happy Harvesting!

Spreading Mulch Warning

Spreading Mulch Warning

Wear Gloves!

Spreading mulch on your garden beads, not only improves soil health, it helps conserves water, and enhances your landscape appearance. It acts as a protective barrier that reduces evaporation, blocks weeds, and balances root temperatures. However, when applying mulch to your garden beds, there are a few safety concerns to consider.

In late May and early June there are often deals to be had on bags or bulk truck loads of mulch. Typically the inexpensive mulch found at your local garden center is made from recycled wood waste (such as chipped pallets or scrap wood) that is tinted to give it a uniform color. While inexpensive brands of mulch are cost effective, they may not have undergone the same level of screening that more premium brands undertake.

On occasion you may find a stray piece of plastic or other foreign objects as you lay the mulch on your garden beds. What you may not anticipate is finding sharp pieces of broken glass in your mulch like I did yesterday.

We recommend wearing heavy duty work gloves while spreading mulch. The gloves will help protect your hands and also keep your hands from becoming stained by the mulches dyes.


Visit our Materials Calculator to get an approximate idea of how much mulch you will need.


Reasons to mulch:

Soil and Plant Health

  • Moisture retention: Mulch blocks sun and wind to slow down water evaporation.
  • Temperature regulation: It keeps roots cooler during hot summers and insulates against winter freezes.
  • Nutrient replenishment: Decomposing organic mulch feeds beneficial soil microbes and deposits nutrients back into the dirt.
  • Erosion prevention: The layer absorbs the impact of heavy rain droplets to stop topsoil from washing away.
  • Disease reduction: It stops muddy water from splashing soil-borne pathogens onto plant foliage.

Garden Maintenance

  • Weed suppression: A dense layer blocks sunlight from reaching weed seeds, stopping germination.
  • Less watering: Improved water retention means spending less time and money on irrigation.
  • Equipment barrier: It creates a designated perimeter that protects trees and shrubs from mower and string trimmer damage.

Aesthetic Value

  • Curb appeal: Fresh mulch immediately makes plant beds and borders look clean, neat, and professional.
  • Visual contrast: The dark, uniform texture highlights the vibrant colors of flowers and green foliage.

Can I compost this?

Can I compost this? Citrus? Shrimp shells? Corks? Stink bugs? Whether or not to put these unusual items on your compost heap.

Can I Compost Wine Corks?

Can I compost wine corks?

Reveal/Hide Answer

Yes!
You can compost wine corks—but only if they’re natural cork (from the bark of cork oak trees). These are 100% biodegradable, carbon-rich "browns" that add great long-term structure and nutrients to your pile as they slowly break down.

Natural vs. Synthetic

Natural corks — Look and feel like real wood/bark: lightweight, porous, crumbly when cut, with a natural grain. Slice one open—if it’s uniform light tan/brown throughout and smells woody, it’s natural and compostable.
Synthetic corks — Made of plastic, foam, or silicone (common in cheaper wines): smooth, uniform color (often bright white/yellow), feel rubbery/plasticky, and don’t crumble. Do not compost these—they won’t break down and could release microplastics. Trash them or upcycle (crafts, bulletin boards, etc.).

Composting Best Practices

Prep them — Cork is tough and naturally water-resistant (that’s why it seals bottles!), so whole corks can take months to years to fully decompose in a backyard pile.

To speed things up:
Chop, slice, or grind them.
Bury pieces in the center of the pile and mix with other browns (leaves, shredded paper) and greens (kitchen scraps) for balance. This prevents them from just sitting there.

Corks

I don’t compost corks because they’re useful for other things like backdrops for shelves.

Cheers! 🍷

Can I Compost teabags?

Can I compost teabags?

Reveal/Hide Answer

Possibly not.

As of March 2026, while a number of prominent tea manufactures have moved away from non-compostable tea-bags, some have moved to polylactic-acic (PLA) bioplastics, which can be composted but require the high heat of an industrial facility and won’t break down in most home composters piles.

Polylactic acid (PLA) is a biodegradable, bio-based thermoplastic derived from materials like corn starch, sugarcane, or tapioca.

Beyond the compostability of the teabags there is also the concern that bioplastic teabags potentially release nanoplastic particles into your cup while the tea is steeping and into the ground when breaking down like traditional polypropylene plastics do.

Compostable by an industrial facility
These brands have reported that they use PLA materials in their teabags and are compostable by professional services.
Barry’s Irish Tea
Bigelow Tea
Lyons Tea
Taylors of Harrogate Tea
Taylors Yorkshire Tea

Home Compostable
These brands have reported their teabags are 100% plastic free and compostable.
Bromley Tea
Prince of Peace Tea
Pukka Tea
Republic of Tea
Stash Tea
Traditional Medicinals Tea
Twinings Tea
Yogi Tea

Not Compostable
Most surprisingly, the company most American’s would associate with all natural teas, Celestial Seasonings uses plastic in their teabags (food-grade polypropylene plastic fibers derived from fossil fuels).
Celestial Seasonings Tea
Lipton Tea
Tetley Tea

Can I Compost Stink Bugs?

Can I compost stink bugs?

Reveal/Hide Answer

Yes!
Stink bugs are perfectly fine to add to a compost heap in small to moderate quantities. They’re 100% natural organic material—mostly chitin exoskeleton and proteins—so they break down just like any other dead insect, contributing nitrogen and becoming part of the nutrient cycle.

  • Insects are a normal part of healthy compost: Decomposers (bacteria, fungi, worms, etc.) routinely process dead bugs in soil and piles. They add minor nutrients (like nitrogen) and don’t introduce pathogens harmful to compost or plants when dead.
  • Bury them in the pile: Toss dead ones into the center or mix them under a layer of browns (leaves, shredded paper, etc.) to speed breakdown and prevent any temporary odor or attraction of flies/scavengers.
  • Keep quantities small: A handful here and there is no problem. If you’re vacuuming up dozens during an invasion, add them gradually rather than dumping a big batch at once—too many at once could create a temporary “hot spot” or slight stink as they break down (though nothing like live ones spraying).
  • Method: If they died naturally, or you used soap/water or vacuumed them up, there are no residue issues. Avoid composting bugs killed with pesticides or chemical sprays, as those could harm beneficial compost organisms (e.g., worms or microbes).
Can I Compost Yankee Caps

Can I compost a Yankee cap?

Reveal/Hide Answer

No!
Alas, as a Blue Jays fan, I’d love to compost Yankee caps but like most modern baseball caps, including the Official New Era Yankees caps, they are usually made from:

  • Polyester (often the primary fabric, especially in performance or modern versions—sometimes 100% polyester or high blends).
  • Cotton twill (in some relaxed or “Clean Up” styles from brands like ’47, often have 100% cotton or high cotton content still have synthetic components hidden in seams, linings, or the brim reinforcement).
  • Cotton-polyester blends (e.g., 40% cotton / 60% polyester in some models).
  • with other elements like: Plastic snaps/buttons (on adjustable backs), synthetic threading, embroidered logos (with plastic-like stabilizers or threads), foam/viscose in the bill (stiffener), and sometimes metal eyelets or tags.

Why It Won’t Compost Well:

  • Polyester and synthetics are basically plastic—they don’t biodegrade in a home compost pile (or even most industrial ones). They can persist for hundreds of years, potentially releasing microplastics into your finished compost/soil.
  • Non-natural additives (dyes, treatments, glues, or stiffeners) may not break down and could introduce unwanted chemicals.
  • Even if mostly cotton, the synthetic bits contaminate the pile—best practice is “when in doubt, leave it out” for clothing/textiles in home composting.

Pure 100% natural-fiber items (like undyed cotton rags with no blends/synthetics) can go in compost, but that’s rare for mass-produced hats.

Can I Compost Citrus Fruit?

Can I compost Citrus fruit?

Reveal/Hide Answer

Yes!
You can indead compost citrus fruit (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, etc.—including peels, whole fruit, or scraps) in a home compost heap. It’s a common myth that you shouldn’t, but that’s largely debunked by gardeners, composting experts, and extension services.

The old concerns were:

  • Too acidic — Citrus is acidic when fresh, but in a balanced compost pile, the pH neutralizes quickly as microbes break it down. It won’t make your finished compost overly acidic unless citrus is the overwhelming majority of what you’re adding (which is unlikely in a normal kitchen/yard setup).
  • Harmful to worms — The oils (like limonene in peels) can irritate composting worms (especially red wigglers in vermicompost bins) if added in huge amounts, making them avoid the area or slow down. But in a regular outdoor pile, earthworms can just move away temporarily if needed, and the pile still decomposes fine. Worms usually join later in the process anyway, after initial breakdown.
  • Slow to break down — Peels are tough and waxy, so they take longer than softer scraps (months instead of weeks), but they do eventually decompose fully.

Best practices:

  • Chop or shred peels into smaller pieces—this speeds things up a lot.
  • Mix well — Bury citrus scraps in the center of the pile under layers of “browns” (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) to balance the “green” nitrogen from the fruit and prevent any temporary smell or mold.
  • Moderate amounts — A few peels or a couple of fruits here and there? Totally fine. If you’re juicing a ton, add them gradually and turn the pile to aerate and heat it up.
  • Hot vs. cold composting — In a hot, active pile (turned regularly), citrus breaks down faster. In a slower cold pile (common in colder NY winters), it still works but takes longer—freeze-thaw cycles actually help by breaking down cell walls over time.
  • Pest deterrent bonus — The strong citrus smell can actually help repel some rodents or flies from raiding the pile.

If you’re using a worm bin (vermicomposting) indoors, though, go easy on citrus—small amounts only, or skip it to keep the worms happy.

Can I Compost Shrimp Shells?

Can I compost Shrimp Shells?

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Yes!
Not sure I would add them to my compost heap, but yes, you can compost shrimp shells (including heads, tails, and bodies) in a backyard compost heap—they’re a great organic addition that breaks down over time and provides valuable nutrients like nitrogen, calcium, and chitin (which can benefit soil health and even help suppress some plant pests/pathogens as it decomposes).

Shrimp shells are considered a "green" material (nitrogen-rich), similar to kitchen scraps or grass clippings, and they fit well into balanced compost piles. They add nitrogen for microbial activity and calcium/chitin that enriches finished compost (chitin promotes beneficial fungi and can improve soil structure).

Potential Downsides
The main concerns are temporary odor (fishy smell during initial breakdown) and attracting pests (flies, rodents, raccoons, or neighborhood animals).

To minimize problems
Bury them deep — Dig a hole or trench in the center of your pile, add the shells, mix with existing material, and cover with a thick layer of "browns" (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard, straw) to absorb moisture/odors and block access.
Crush or chop them — Break shells into smaller pieces (use a hammer, rolling pin in a bag, or food processor/blender for dried ones) to speed decomposition (whole shells can take months to years).
Pre-treat if possible — Rinse off any sauces/butter first. Some folks boil shells briefly (20–30 minutes) to reduce smell and kill bacteria, then dry them (sun-dry or oven) until crisp before adding—this makes them less attractive to pests and easier to crush.
Add in moderation — A handful or two at a time is ideal; avoid dumping large quantities all at once, as that can create a smelly, anaerobic spot.
Balance the pile — Mix with plenty of carbon-rich browns and turn/aerate regularly to keep it hot and active (heat helps break down faster and reduces odors).
Pest-proof your setup — If rodents are an issue, use a enclosed bin/tumbler with a secure lid, or bury shells extra deep (12+ inches). Avoid leaving exposed scraps on top.

Walnuts

Can I compost Walnuts?

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Well…technically Yes,
A number of state extensions and other experts say that walnuts, even black walnut tree materials can be composted as long as the heap reaches a high internal temperature and the material is in the heap for at least six months.

Walnut trees (especially Black Walnut trees) contain a chemical called juglone that can adversely affect a number of garden plants including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rhubarb, columbine and others.

Butternut, pecan, hickory, and English walnut trees also contain the compound but in smaller amounts.

Our recommendation would be to use caution. There are plenty of other materials to compost, so why fiddle with walnuts?

Can you compost a curling stone?

Can I compost a Curling stone?

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ah…No!
Did you really have to click to reveal this? It’s made of flippin’ granite!

No, you cannot compost a curling stone because it is made of granite, typically sourced from Ailsa Craig in Scotland., not organic matter. Compost is for material that breaks down, and while the rock won’t harm your compost pile, it will not decompose, even over several thousand years. As a rock, it is inorganic material and will remain in your compost pile unchanged.

Marmite

Can I compost Marmite?

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Yes,
You can compost Marmite — in small amounts, it should break down just fine in a home compost pile.

Marmite is basically a concentrated yeast extract (from brewer’s yeast), mixed with salt, some vegetable extracts, and spices. Yeast and its byproducts are organic and fully biodegradable:

Plain yeast (or spent brewer’s yeast) is routinely added to compost piles or used as a compost activator/fertilizer by homebrewers and gardeners — it provides nitrogen and feeds the microbes that do the decomposing work. The main "issue" is the high salt content. Too much salt at once can temporarily harm soil microbes or make the compost a bit saline if you add large quantities.

Suggested Use:

  • Scrape small leftover amounts (e.g., residue from a jar, a spoonful or two into your compost — it will disappear quickly.
  • Mix it in well with other materials (greens like veggie scraps + browns like leaves/cardboard) to dilute the salt.
  • Avoid dumping a whole jar or large volumes at once — that much salt could slow things down or attract unwanted attention from animals (though Marmite’s strong smell might actually deter some pests rather than attract them).
  • If your compost is a bokashi system or worm bin (vermicomposting), go very light or skip it — worms can be sensitive to high salt.

People even use tiny bits of yeast extract spreads like Marmite or Vegemite diluted in water as a quick microbial boost for compost teas or as a plant fertilizer in some gardening circles.

A bit of Marmite in the compost? Totally fine and even mildly beneficial.
A whole jar? Would be a waste of lovely marmite! It would be better to avoid or dilute heavily first.

Poinsettia Care

Poinsettia Care

Keep your poinsettias looking good through Christmas!

Our poinsettia care tips that will help keep your plants looking festive for months to come.

As many poinsettias are purchased at grocery stores and home improvement centers, they may not have been receiving the best of care since leaving the greenhouses where they were raised.

Poinsettia Bud

When selecting a poinsettia, try to find a plant with tight greenish flower buds. If the buds have turned yellow and have separated, the plant has likely been blooming for a while and may not be at its peak for Christmas.

The small bud clusters known as cyathia, are the actual flowers of a poinsettia, the brightly colored leaves are called bracts.

If the plant’s foil wrapping is in the way, pull it back and look at the lower leaves. If they are yellowing or appear close to dropping off, select a different plant.

The poinsettias I recently saw at a nearby Tops supermarket were literally floating in their decorative foil wrappings due to over watering.

Once you have your plant home, its best to either remove any foil wrappings or to poke holes in the foil covering the bottom of the pot to allow for drainage.

Poinsettias prefer consistent light watering. They don’t like sitting in water but they really don’t like being left to dry out.

Poke the top of the soil with your finger every few days. If it the soil feels dry to the touch, give the plant a light watering. If your poinsettia has been placed on a saucer, tip out any excess water that accumulates.

It can’t hurt to mist your plants every few days to provide a bit of humidity.

Poinsettias are native to Mexico so they prefer as many hours of sunlight a day as possible. While poinsettias can tolerate full sun, indirect light is preferred. They enjoy temperatures between 65 and 70°F but not warmer.

Avoid placing your poinsettia in drafty locations, near frequently opened doorways, or in contact with icy windows. Just to make things more difficult, heating vents, wood burning stoves, and other heat sources should also be avoided.

50°F is about the lowest temperature poinsettias can tolerate, so when bringing your plants home from the store be sure to cover them before bringing them out into the cold air.

Even though the stockings, ornaments, and inflatable grinches will be packed away, your poinsettia can remain a bright accent in your home for months to come.

Fertilize your poinsettia about once a month. I use Sea Magic Seaweed fertilizer on all my houseplants.

By late February or early March, if your plant begins to drop leaves and is looking a little worse for wear, cut the plants flowering stems back to about 6 inches in length to promote new growth.

If all is going well, just prior to the start of summer, repot your poinsettia into a container 2″-3″ larger.

During the summer, place your poinsettia on a nice sunny porch or similar location, as your plant will benefit from the outdoor humidity.

With any luck you will have a healthy but green bracted poinsettia.

In order for poinsettias to achieve that familiar bright red color, they need darkness, at least 12-14 hours of absolute, uninterrupted darkness every night. Even the briefest flash of light can interfere with the process.

September 10th is the optimal date to begin the photoperiodic induction process in order to have a bright red poinsettia by Christmas.

During the day, the plant will still require bright light for about 8-10 hours to stay healthy.

Most commercial growers produce their hybrid poinsettias from stem cuttings, but it is possible to grow poinsettias from seed but they rarely resemble their parent. Seeds also require a period of cold-stratification for the seeds to germinate.

Enjoy your poinettias!

Merry Christmas from all of us here at Shortmeadows.

Planting Garlic

Planting Garlic

With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.

For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!

Quickies

Ask Zoe

Short answers to some of your recent questions

Hi Zoe,

I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?

Marty C.

Hi Marty,
Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.

Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.

Hope it flowers soon!

Hi Zoe,

Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?

Cynthia H.

Hi Cynthia,
Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.

Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.

Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.

Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.

Happy Growing!

Zoe,

Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?

Carol J.

Hi Carol,
I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.

Zoe,

Is it too late to plant poppies?

Mary R.

Hi Mary,
Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.

Hi Zoe,

Where do you buy your plants?

Renee M.

Hi Renee,
It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.


In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
    Determinate tomato plants grow to a fixed size, they resemble more a bush than a vine and produce most of their fruit over a short period of time. They are preferred for canning and small spaces.
    Indeterminate tomato plants grow continuously and producing fruit all season. They resemble vines and requiring significant support. They are great for fresh eating throughout the summer.
  • For a small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

See popular local varieties below

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue, use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants in the spring. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

With any luck you will have an abundant tomato harvest by late summer.