Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.


In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
    Determinate tomato plants grow to a fixed size, they resemble more a bush than a vine and produce most of their fruit over a short period of time. They are preferred for canning and small spaces.
    Indeterminate tomato plants grow continuously and producing fruit all season. They resemble vines and requiring significant support. They are great for fresh eating throughout the summer.
  • For a small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

See popular local varieties below

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue, use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants in the spring. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

With any luck you will have an abundant tomato harvest by late summer.

Planting Dahlias

With their stunning and long lasting blooms, Dahlias are a stunning addition to any garden. The middle of May is prime planting time for dahlias, as the last frost has passed (typically early May in Webster), and soil temperatures are above 60°F—perfect for these tender perennials.

1. Planting

  • Timing: Plant now (mid-May) to ensure blooms by late summer (July–September). Dahlias need warm soil (60°F+), and nighttime temps should stay above 50°F, which they are in Webster this time of year.
  • Starting: Use tubers (not seeds) for faster results. Look for firm tubers with visible “eyes” (growth points).
  • Soil: Dahlias need well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.5–7.0). Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from mixing in compost and sand or perlite. Dig a hole 6–8 inches deep, lay the tuber horizontally with the eye facing up, and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the sprout grows, gradually fill the hole.
  • Spacing: Space tubers 1–2 ft apart (1 ft for dwarfs, 2 ft for larger varieties). Plant 1–2 tubers to avoid overcrowding.

2. Watering and Feeding

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—about 1 inch per week. Water at the base to avoid wetting leaves, reducing powdery mildew risk (common in Webster’s humid summers). Once established, dahlias are somewhat drought-tolerant but don’t let them dry out completely.
  • Mulching: Add 2 inches of straw or shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and keep soil cool. Keep mulch away from stems to prevent rot.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) to promote blooms over foliage.
  • Monthly: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea until blooming starts (July). Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

3. Support and Pruning

  • Staking: Most dahlias (except dwarfs) need support, as stems can snap in summer storms. Install a 4–6 ft stake or cage at planting time. Tie stems loosely with garden twine as they grow.
  • Pinching: When plants reach 12–18 inches tall (around June), pinch the top growth above the fourth set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more blooms.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent flowers weekly to promote continuous blooming through September. Cut back to the nearest set of leaves.

4. Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs: Slugs love tender dahlia shoots. Use your grapefruit traps near dahlias, and add a ring of diatomaceous earth around the base. Hand-pick at dusk if needed.
  • Other Pests: Watch for aphids (spray with insecticidal soap) and spider mites (increase humidity, use neem oil). Japanese beetles may appear in July—hand-pick or use row covers.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions. Ensure good air circulation (don’t overcrowd), and apply a sulfur-based fungicide if needed. Avoid overhead watering.

5. Overwintering in Webster

  • Frost Timing: Dahlias are tender and won’t survive Webster’s winter (lows to -10°F). First frost hits ~October 5–15.
  • Digging Tubers: After frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 4 inches, dig up tubers, and brush off soil (don’t wash). Dry them for 1–2 days in a garage or shed.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a box with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust at 40–50°F (e.g., a cool basement). Check monthly for rot; mist lightly if they shrivel. Replant next May.

6. Local Tips

  • Weather: May is rainy (3–4 inches average). Ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot. July–August heat (80–85°F) will boost growth if you keep soil moist.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County (585-461-1000) can provide soil testing to optimize your dahlia bed.

Quick Timeline

  • May 14: Plant tubers, stake, water well.
  • June: Pinch tops, fertilize, monitor slugs.
  • July–September: Deadhead, water, enjoy blooms.
  • October: Dig and store tubers after frost.

Spring Planting

Planting Dates for Spring

The estimated last frost date for Webster, NY is May 7th.

Late-Season Risk: Frost is possible through early May; 10% chance of frost after May 12. Plant tender plants (tomatoes, peppers) around May 17-31.

CropStart Seeds IndoorsPlant Seedlings or TransplantsStart Seeds Outdoors
Arugula~~April 19-May 3
Basil March 7-22May 7-24~
Beets~~April 19-May 10
Bell PeppersFebruary 21-March 7May 10-24~
BroccoliMarch 7-22April 5-26~
Cabbage March 7-22April 5-19~
Cantaloupes April 5-12May 17-31~
Carrots~~March 29-April 12
Cauliflower March 7-22April 5-26~
Celery February 21-March 7May 10-24~
Chives~~April 5-12
Cilantro/Coriander~~May 7-17
Corn~~May 7-17
Cucumbers April 5-12 May 17-31~
Dill~~March 29-April 12
Eggplants March 7-22 March 7-18 May 17-31~
Green Beans~~May 10-31
Kale March 7-22 March 7-18April 5-26~
Kohlrabi March 22-April 5April 12-19~
Lettuce March 22-April 5April 19-May 17~
Onions~~April 5-26
Oregano February 21-March 22May 7-24~
Parsley~~April 5-19
Parsnips~~April 12-May 3
Peas~~March 22-April 12
Peppers (Hot)February 14 – March 1May 17-31~
Peppers (Sweet)March 1 – March 7May 17-31~
Potatoes~~April 26-May 17
Pumpkins April 12-26May 17-31~
Radishes~~March 7-29
RosemaryFebruary 21-March 7May 10-31~
SageMarch 7-22May 7-17~
Spinach~~ March 22-April 12
Sweet PotatoesApril 5-12May 17-31~
Swiss ChardMarch 22-April 5 April 12-19~
ThymeFebruary 21-March 22May 7-24~
TomatoesMarch 7-22May 17-31~
Turnips~~April 5-26
WatermelonsApril 5-12May 17-31~
ZucchiniApril 5-19May 17-31~

Cold Stratification

Before you pop those seeds in a pot, you might check and see if your seeds need a bit of a chill first.

As unpleasant as those cold winter nights can be, they provide many seeds with the signals they need to begin the germination process.

Cold stratification is done to imitate the moist, chilly winter weather that triggers a seed to sprout. Most perennial plant seeds require a combination of cold and damp to germinate.

Common varieties that require cold stratification for spring planting:
(Varieties in bold are native to Central and Western, New York.)

  • Agrimony (Agrimonia@) – 30-60 days
  • Angelica (Angelica atropurpurea) – dry stratify#
  • Apple (Malus domestica) – 90-120 days
  • Arnica (Arnica spp.) – 30-74 days
  • Artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) – 30-44 days
  • Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) – 21-30 days
  • Aster (Aster spp.) – 30-60 days
  • Basket of Gold (Alyssum saxatile) – 30-44 days
  • Bee Balm (Monarda didyma) – 21-30 days
  • Bellflower (Campanula spp.) – 30-44 days
  • Black Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) – 30-60 days
  • Bluebell (Phacelia spp.) – 60 days
  • Blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) – 30-120 days
  • Borage (Borago officinalis) – 30-44 days
  • Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) – 30-60 days
  • Bugbane (Cimicifuga spp.) – 90-120 days
  • Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) – 21-30 days
  • Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) – 30-60 days
  • Catmint (Nepeta) – 14-30 days
  • Catnip (Nepeta cataria) – 14-30 days
  • Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) – 30-74 days
  • Cherry (Prunus spp.) – 90-120 days
  • Cohosh, Black (Actaea racemosa) – 60-90 days
  • Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) – 21-30 days
  • Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) – 30-60 days
  • Coneflower, Purple (Echinacea purpurea), Prairie (Ratibida) – 30 days
  • Cranberry (Vaccinium spp.) – 30-120 days
  • Delphinium (Delphinium spp.) – 14-30 days
  • Dianthus (Dianthus spp.) – 14-21 days
  • Dogwood (Cornus*) – 90-120 days
  • Edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) – 21 days
  • Elderberry (Sambucus spp.) – 60 days
  • Fireweed (Chamaenerion angustifolium) – 30-44 days
  • Forsythia (Forsythia x intermedia) – 30-90 days
  • Foxglove (Digitalis) – 14-30 days
  • Gentian (Gentiana**) – 60-90 days
  • Geranium (Geranium***) – 30-60 days
  • Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) – 30-90 days
  • Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) – 30-60 days
  • Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum) – 30-60 days
  • Good King Henry (Blitum bonus-henricus) – 60-74 days
  • Grapes (Vitis labrusca) – 90-120 days
  • Hawthorn (Crataegus) – 120 days
  • Hollyhock (Alcea rosea) – 90-120 days
  • Hyssop (Agastache spp.) – 30 days
  • Iris (Iris spp.) – 60-90 days
  • Ironweed (Vernonia gigantea) – 60-90 days
  • Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium spp.) – 30-60 days
  • Kiwi Fruit (Actinidia spp.) – 30-60 days
  • Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla Mollis) – 21-30 days
  • Larkspur (Delphinium exaltatum, Delphinium tricorne) – 14-30 days
  • Lavender (Lavandula spp.) – 7-30 days
  • Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) – 7-44 days
  • Licorice (Helichrysum petiolare) – 14-30 days
  • Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) – 40-60 days
  • Lousewort, Canadian / Wood Betony (Pedicularis canadensis) – 30-90 days
  • Lupine, Wild Blue (Lupinus perennis) – 30-60 days
  • Magnolia (Magnolia spp.) – 60-90 days
  • Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) – 30-44 days
  • Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) – 60-112 days
  • Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) – 30-60 days
  • Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) – 30-60 days
  • Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) – 14-30 days
  • Mulberry, Red (Morus rubra) – 90 days
  • Mullein (Verbascum spp.) – 30 days
  • Oak, English (Quercus robur) – 90 days
  • Ox Eye Sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides) – 30-60 days
  • Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) – 70 days
  • Peach (Prunus persica) – 60 days
  • Pear, European (Pyrus communis) – 60 days
  • Peony (Paeonia spp.) – 60 days
  • Persimmon, American (Diospyros virginiana) – 60-120 days
  • Phlox, Garden (Phlox paniculata) – 60 days
  • Poppy, Oriental (Papaver orientale) – 21-30 days
  • Primrose (Oenothera biennis) – 14-42 days
  • Raspberry (Rubus idaeus, Rubus occidentalis) – 60-120 days
  • Rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.) – 30-60 days
  • Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) – 14-44 days
  • Rose, Wild (Rosa spp.) – 60 days
  • Sage, White (Salvia apiana) – 14-30 days
  • Self Heal (Prunella vulgaris) – 30 days
  • Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) – 90-120 days
  • Shooting Star (Dodecatheon meadia / Primula meadia^) – 30-90 days
  • Skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora) – 30 days
  • St. John’s Wort (Hypericum**^) – 28-42 days
  • Sunflower, perennial (Helianthus*^^) – 30-60 days
  • Sweet Flag / Calamus (Acorus calamus) – 30-60 days
  • Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) – 30-74 days
  • Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) – 14-30 days
  • Thyme (Thymus genus) – 14-44 days
  • Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans) – 30 days
  • Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) – 14-21 days
  • Vervain (Verbena hastata, V. urticifolia, V. simplex) – 30-60 days
  • Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) – 30-72 days
  • Wisteria (Wisteria spp.) – 30-90 days
  • Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) – 60-120 days
  • Yarrow (Achillea spp.) – 14-30 days
  • Yucca (Yucca filamentosa) – 30-90 days

Paper Towel Cold Stratification

  1. Spread the seeds in a single layer across double layers of damp paper towel. Wring the paper towel out so that it is not dripping wet.
  2. Make sure each seed has good contact with the damp towel.
  3. Insert the damp paper towel into a Ziploc bag or sealed container.
  4. Label the container with the date and seed variety.
  5. Place seeds in the back or bottom of your refrigerator where it is coldest. Do not place your seeds in the freezer.
  6. In most cases, after 30 days your seeds will be ready to be removed from the refrigerator and potted. If seeds start to sprout in the refrigerator, remove them immediately and pot them in a suitable medium until it’s warm enough to plant them outdoors.

Potting Soil Cold Stratification

Instead of the paper towel, you can also dampen a small amount of your favorite potting mix until it can hold together in a ball. Mix the seeds into the mix (approximately 1 part seed to 3 parts soil) and then place them into a ziploc bag at the back of the refrigerator.

^Native but threatened in New York State.

#Dry stratify: Refrigerate dry seeds until use

@Native varieties of Agrimony:Tall Hairy Agrimony (Agrimonia gryposepala), Many-flowered Agrimony (Agrimonia parviflora),Woodland Agrimony (Agrimonia rostellata).

*Native varieties of Dogwood: Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea), Gray Dogwood (Cornus racemosa), Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia), Silky Dogwood (Cornus amomum), Round-leaved Dogwood (Cornus rugosa), Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida).

**Native varieties of Gentian: Closed Bottle Gentian (Gentiana andrewsii), Meadow Bottle Gentian (Gentiana clausa), Fringed Gentian (Gentianopsis crinita), Cream Gentian / White Gentian (Gentiana alba), Stiff Gentian / Dwarf Gentian (Gentianella quinquefolia).

***Native varieties of Geranium: Wild Geranium / Spotted Cranesbill (Geranium maculatum), Carolina Cranesbill (Geranium carolinianum), Bicknell’s Cranesbill (Geranium bicknellii).

*^Native varieties of St. John’s Wort: Shrubby St. John’s Wort (Hypericum prolificum), Spotted St. John’s Wort (Hypericum punctatum), Pale St. John’s Wort (Hypericum ellipticum), St. Andrew’s Cross (Hypericum hypericoides / crux-andreae), Orangegrass/Pineweed (Hypericum gentianoides). The most prevalent species, (Hypericum perforatum) is not native to Central and Western New York.

*^^Native varieties of Sunflowers: Woodland Sunflower (Helianthus divaricatus), Thin-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus decapetalus), Pale-leaved Sunflower (Helianthus strumosus), Giant Sunflower (Helianthus giganteus), Jerusalem Artichoke / Sunchoke (Helianthus tuberosus), Fewleaf Sunflower (Helianthus occidentalis)