Shamrock Plants

Shamrock plants

It doesn’t have to be St. Patrick’s Day to enjoy the charm of the shamrock plant.

Shamrock plants, commonly sold as “shamrocks” (especially around St. Patrick’s Day), are not true shamrocks or clovers. They belong to the Oxalis genus (of the wood sorrel family, Oxalidaceae), and are often referred to as false shamrocks, purple shamrocks, or simply oxalis.


Legend holds that St. Patrick used the three-leafed clover to explain the Holy Trinity—Father, Son, and Holy Spirit—to the Irish people in the 4th century. The word “shamrock” derives from the Irish words seamair óg or young clover.

Clovers ( or trefoils), are plants of the genus Trifolium (from Latin tres ‘three’ and folium ‘leaf’).

There is some dispute between historians as to which variety of clover is the true shamrock.

Whether the true shamrock is Trifolium dubium (lesser/yellow clover, seamair bhuí), Trifolium repens (white clover, seamair bhán) or Trifolium pratense (red clover, seamair dhearg), we’ll leave it to the Irish historians to battle it out.

All three varieties of clover would make really lousy houseplants…hence the popularity of oxalis!


Oxalis come in numerous forms and from multiple parts of the world, but the ones promoted around St. Patrick’s Day have clover-like (trifoliate) leaves. While there are oxalis varieties native to Ireland, many of the varieties sold in home improvement stores and grocery stores around St. Patrick’s Day originate from South America or Africa.

Shamrock plants: Oxalis triangularis
Shamrock plants: Oxalis regnellii
Shamrock plants: Oxalis tetraphylla

St. Patrick’s Day Shamrock plant varieties:

  • Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock or false shamrock) — with deep purple to burgundy leaves, often with a darker center triangle pattern.
  • Oxalis regnellii (green shamrock) — Native of South America with bright green leaves.
  • Oxalis tetraphylla (four-leaf sorrel or iron cross) — green with a burgundy colored center

Other popular oxalis varieties:

  • Oxalis adenophylla (silver shamrock) — Native to Argentina and Chile. Has light pink flowers with heavily divided leaflets. Cold hardy to zone 4.
  • Oxalis vulcanicola (molten lava, copper glow) — Native of Mexico. Has brightly coloured leaves and flowers.
  • Oxalis oregana (redwood sorrel) — clove like leaves with pink veined white flowers.
  • Oxalis griffithii — Native of Asia. Cold hardy to zone 4. Spreads via rhizomes, not bulbs.
  • Oxalis acetosella — Native to Europe. Green with white flowers. Spreads via rhizomes, not bulbs.

General characteristics:

  • Leaves are trifoliate (three heart-shaped leaflets) that fold up at night or in low light (a movement called nyctinasty).
  • They produce delicate, small flowers — usually white, pink, or pale purple — that bloom for long periods.
  • They grow in clumps of small bulbs known as corms,
  • They’re perennials and are usually grown indoors as houseplants, but can be grown outdoors in warmer climates (USDA zones 8a–11, in light shade).

Many people love them for their vibrant color (especially the purple varieties, which add contrast to green-heavy plant collections) and the way leaves “respond” to light and time of day. They are also easy to grow low-maintenance plants.

Basic care tips (as houseplants):

  • Light — Bright, indirect light is ideal; some gentle morning sun works, but avoid harsh afternoon direct sun to prevent scorching.
  • Water — Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy — let the top dry slightly between waterings. They don’t like their feet too wet as they will begin to rot.
  • Temperature — Prefers cooler conditions (around 60–75°F / 15–24°C); hot temperatures can trigger dormancy.
  • Soil — Well-draining potting mix (with perlite or sand for aeration).
  • Fertilizer — Light feeding with balanced houseplant fertilizer during active growth (spring/fall); skip in dormancy.
  • Dormancy — They typically go dormant for a brief period during the summer. Their leaves will die back and they may even look quite dead. Don’t despair and throw them away! Reduce watering, and possibly move them to a cooler spot out of the sun. Once they’ve rested for a month or so, they’ll surprise you and pop right back.
  • Toxicity — They’re toxic if ingested in large quantities (they contain oxalic acid, like rhubarb leaves), so it’s best to keep them out of reach of pets and young children.

They’re easy to propagate by dividing the bulbs and can live for years with proper rest periods.

Overall, shamrock Oxalis plants are charming, eye-catching additions to indoor spaces — especially the purple ones that look almost like butterflies! If you’re thinking of getting one, they’re widely available as potted plants or bulbs.

Oxalis plants (like the popular shamrock or purple shamrock, Oxalis triangularis, and green shamrock, Oxalis regnellii) are among the easier houseplants to propagate. They primarily grow from small bulb-like structures called corms or tubers, which multiply naturally over time. This makes dividing them pretty straight forward.

Division of Bulbs/Corms

When to do it — Wait until the plant goes dormant (foliage fully dies back). This is usually the easiest time, as the bulbs are resting and multiply readily.

  1. Gently remove the entire plant from its pot.
  2. Shake off excess soil to expose the small, clustered bulbs (they look like tiny onions or garlic cloves, often brown and papery).
  3. Separate the bulbs by hand — they usually pull apart easily. If clustered tightly, use clean fingers or a small tool to tease them apart without damaging them.
  4. Discard any mushy, rotten, or shriveled bulbs.
  5. Plant the separated bulbs in fresh, well-draining potting mix (add perlite for extra drainage). Bury them about 1–2 inches deep, pointy end up if visible.
  6. Water lightly and place in bright, indirect light. New growth (leaves) should emerge in a few weeks to a couple of months.

Their bulbs multiply quickly (a single plant can produce many offsets in a season), so you can get several new plants from one mature clump.

Germination 2026

A little ongoing progress report on how our seed starting is going thus far. More to follow soon.

Uprising Seeds Buena Mulata Hot Pepper
Buena Mulata Hot Pepper

Buena Mulata Hot Pepper at 3 weeks
Approximate germination rate: 95%

Uprising Seeds Sarit Gat Hot Pepper
Sarit Gat Hot Pepper

Sarit Gat Hot Pepper at 3 weeks
Approximate germination rate: 15%

Seed Cult Dahlia Seeds

Diablo and Cactus Flower Dahlia at 2 weeks
Approximate germination rate: 95%

Poinsettia Care

Poinsettia Care

Keep your poinsettias looking good through Christmas!

Our poinsettia care tips that will help keep your plants looking festive for months to come.

As many poinsettias are purchased at grocery stores and home improvement centers, they may not have been receiving the best of care since leaving the greenhouses where they were raised.

Poinsettia Bud

When selecting a poinsettia, try to find a plant with tight greenish flower buds. If the buds have turned yellow and have separated, the plant has likely been blooming for a while and may not be at its peak for Christmas.

The small bud clusters known as cyathia, are the actual flowers of a poinsettia, the brightly colored leaves are called bracts.

If the plant’s foil wrapping is in the way, pull it back and look at the lower leaves. If they are yellowing or appear close to dropping off, select a different plant.

The poinsettias I recently saw at a nearby Tops supermarket were literally floating in their decorative foil wrappings due to over watering.

Once you have your plant home, its best to either remove any foil wrappings or to poke holes in the foil covering the bottom of the pot to allow for drainage.

Poinsettias prefer consistent light watering. They don’t like sitting in water but they really don’t like being left to dry out.

Poke the top of the soil with your finger every few days. If it the soil feels dry to the touch, give the plant a light watering. If your poinsettia has been placed on a saucer, tip out any excess water that accumulates.

It can’t hurt to mist your plants every few days to provide a bit of humidity.

Poinsettias are native to Mexico so they prefer as many hours of sunlight a day as possible. While poinsettias can tolerate full sun, indirect light is preferred. They enjoy temperatures between 65 and 70°F but not warmer.

Avoid placing your poinsettia in drafty locations, near frequently opened doorways, or in contact with icy windows. Just to make things more difficult, heating vents, wood burning stoves, and other heat sources should also be avoided.

50°F is about the lowest temperature poinsettias can tolerate, so when bringing your plants home from the store be sure to cover them before bringing them out into the cold air.

Even though the stockings, ornaments, and inflatable grinches will be packed away, your poinsettia can remain a bright accent in your home for months to come.

Fertilize your poinsettia about once a month. I use Sea Magic Seaweed fertilizer on all my houseplants.

By late February or early March, if your plant begins to drop leaves and is looking a little worse for wear, cut the plants flowering stems back to about 6 inches in length to promote new growth.

If all is going well, just prior to the start of summer, repot your poinsettia into a container 2″-3″ larger.

During the summer, place your poinsettia on a nice sunny porch or similar location, as your plant will benefit from the outdoor humidity.

With any luck you will have a healthy but green bracted poinsettia.

In order for poinsettias to achieve that familiar bright red color, they need darkness, at least 12-14 hours of absolute, uninterrupted darkness every night. Even the briefest flash of light can interfere with the process.

September 10th is the optimal date to begin the photoperiodic induction process in order to have a bright red poinsettia by Christmas.

During the day, the plant will still require bright light for about 8-10 hours to stay healthy.

Most commercial growers produce their hybrid poinsettias from stem cuttings, but it is possible to grow poinsettias from seed but they rarely resemble their parent. Seeds also require a period of cold-stratification for the seeds to germinate.

Enjoy your poinettias!

Merry Christmas from all of us here at Shortmeadows.

Planting Garlic

Planting Garlic

With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.

For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!

Butterfly Conservation

Butterfly Conservation. No garden truly blooms until butterflies have danced upon it

Highway 13 Butterfly Conservation Trail

An exciting new Butterfly conservation project is taking shape in the state of Missouri. A nearly 300 mile corridor between the cities of Bethany and Branson is being developed along the path of Highway 13 to provide aid to local pollinators and provide a migratory route for traveling Monarch Butterflies.

Along the trail, carefully selected native wildflowers and grasses including milkweed, purple coneflowers, goldenrod, and bee balm are being planted. The hope is that by planting native species in strategic locations like rest stops, roadside plots, public parks, a continuous path of habitat supporting monarch butterflies, native bees, hummingbirds, and other essential pollinators can be established.


Other Butterfly Trails

Asheville Butterfly Trail
Rosalynn Carter Butterfly Trail

Parks for Pollinators

Parks for Pollinators is a advocacy campaign created by the National Recreation and Park Association (NRPA) that encourages education about the current plight of pollinators due to loss of habitat, pesticide use, and other factors. The NRPA hopes to inspire local action and park participation that advances native habitats and pollinator health. Locally, the Highland Park Conservancy is a member of the NRPA that works to further the principles of the organization.


Butterfly Conservation. Hojack Trail July 22
Hojack Trail, August 22

Meanwhile, here in Webster….

The images above were both taken on the Hojack trail. The photo of the Monarch butterfly was taken in the last week of July 2022. The photo of the mowed trail was taken at the same location just over a week later.

Two to three times each summer the Hojack trail is heavily cutback, removing the majority of pollinator plants that populate the edges of the trail. The mowing not only removes a source of food for butterflies and other pollinators, it destroys the young caterpillars growing in the plant-life along the trail. The milkweed, spicebush, and sassafras may comeback for a time, but the mowing process has consistently spread highly invasive swallow-wort further and further down the trail.

The mowing is not limited to the Hojack trail. The milkweed edging the ponds at Charles E. Sexton Memorial Park (North Ponds) are usually mowed down the week before the annual Waterfront festival in late July. Similar mowing is done at other parks within the Webster parks system. Sadly, even the Webster Arboretum Association consistently removes millweed plants from their gardens.

Consider planting a pollinator garden in your yard!

Our Campari Experiment

Growing Tomatoes

Our Campari Experiment

As an experiment, we started Campari seedlings indoors in March, from tomatoes purchased at Wegmans.

If you’re not familiar with Campari tomatoes, they are a sweet, juicy, cocktail-sized tomato (about 1 1/2–2 inches in diameter), found in clear plastic containers at most supermarkets. Wegmans tomatoes are usually sourced from Canada and Mexico.

Campari tomatoes are the world’s first branded tomato. They were developed by Mastronardi Produce, a 4th generation, commercial greenhouse grower headquartered in Kingsville, Ontario, Canada. The tomatoes are sold under their Sunset Grown and Backyard Farms brands as well as multiple store brands.

The tomatoes are non-GMO hybrids grown in state of the art greenhouses. As such, it’s difficult to predict what growing the seeds in a backyard garden will produce.

Practicality aside, its always fun to experiment just to see what happens.

Summer Update

We have Campari tomatoes!

The yield isn’t huge and the tomatoes are slightly smaller than the ones purchased from Wegmans. The taste however is still great!

Mosquito Control

Mosquito Control

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about mosquitoes, biting flies, or ticks. Wouldn’t we all like a simple, straightforward method of mosquito control that eliminates them from our yards and lives?

Pyrethroids to the rescue!

You may have seen the promotions, either stuffed in your mailbox, on signs in neighbors yards, or possibly through a knock at your door.

No need to worry, it’s Mosquito Bob, or was it Ray, or Charlie to the rescue. A simple monthly visit and a cloud of pyrethroid spray and all your insect problems will be a distant memory.

Alas, experience teaches us that the miracle claims made by many advertisers take great liberties with the truth.

Anything for a buck

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about the companies that spray for mosquitos in residential neighborhoods.

Pest control companies know the dangers associated with their services. Yet they play upon our fears of potential mosquito and tick born illnesses, highlight the joys of hanging out in your backyard, and make little to no mention of the damage to the environment their “miracle sprays” cause.

Mosquito control services typically use chemicals like bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, deltamethrin, and permethrin which are all synthetic variations of pyrethrins, known as pyrethroids.


Pyrethroids are broad spectrum insecticides, meaning they do not discriminate between the insects we value and the insects we dislike.


Pyrethroids can persist in the environment for several months harming any insect that comes into contact with them. Monthly application of the chemicals only furthers the damage.


Bees, butterflies, caterpillars, dragonflies, earthworms, fireflies, ladybugs, spiders and thousands of other insect species die when they come in contact with pyrethroids.


The chemicals are also extremely toxic to aquatic organisms, especially fish and crustaceans. We might also mention that cats lack the ability to breakdown pyrethroids which can cause toxic levels of build-up in their systems.

Mosquito control companies will tell you the chemicals they use are safe. That they are derived from pretty little chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrins are indeed found in chrysanthemum flowers, however, pyrethroids merely mimic the characteristics of pyrethrins, they are synthetic creations designed in a laboratory to be far more toxic and longer-lasting than their natural counterparts.

When prodded, they will swear they carefully avoid spraying flowering plants that attract pollinators. However, bees and other pollinators are often found on clover plants down amongst the grass. Many butterfly species lay their eggs on a variety of plants and trees. Many insects land on a wide variety of plants for the purpose of rest and ironically, safety. Wind can also cause pesticide drift, coating far more than targeted areas of the garden. Additionally, rain causes chemical runoff into creeks, streams, and waterways impacting fish and crustaceans.

Mosquito control services are highly profitable as recurring visits and monthly charges are often required. Numerous companies have popped up in the past 10 years and many lawn care companies have added it to their repertoire. Large scale marketing campaigns have increased the popularity of the service, as most of their customers are seemingly oblivious to the damage the service is causing to the environment.

Many farms use pyrethroids extensively. The EPA recommends farms clear flowering weeds in close proximity to their fields to reduce pollinator deaths due to drift from sprays. A drive through the country will quickly show that some farms follow the EPA recommendation, while others do not.

Insect and bird populations have been declining drastically in recent years. The situation is complex, but pesticides play a considerable role. With fewer insects there is less food available to insect eating birds. Many of the insects birds do eat contain measurable levels of pesticides.

We ask you to please consider not using insecticides of any kind on your property.


Alternatives and Recommendations

Fans

Alfredo Salkeld of the Buddha Bee Apiary recommends purchasing several electric floor fans for those evenings outdoors. “Wind may interfere with the mosquito’s ability to fly, but a fan on medium to high can also help disperse and dilute the carbon dioxide your body expels. And carbon dioxide attracts mosquitos.”

Native Plants and water

Planting water loving native plants like Button bushes, Cardinal flowers, and Swamp Milkweed not only attract pollinators but reduces the amount of standing water on your property.

Maintenance
  • Clean your gutters and other areas where water collects.
  • Use water circulating pumps in small ponds and water features.
  • Keep your lawn mowed to discourage ticks from moving into your yard.
BTI

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis is a bacterium that naturally occurs in soil and is only toxic to mosquito and black fly larvae. It can be purchased as granules that can be sprinkled in areas that are frequently damp. It is a far more targeted and effective way of controlling mosquitoes. The best known brand goes by the name “Mosquito Bits“.

Action

Consider contacting your state senator or assembly member to recommend legislation banning mosquito fogging and spraying in residential areas. (If you’re not in Webster, find your senator or assembly member.)

Currently the only active legislation in New York State related to Mosquito spraying is targeted to prohibiting aerial and ground application of malathion and certain pyrethroid-based insecticides near schools, day cares, and parks.

If you use a landscape or lawn care company, consider using a company that does not promote the use of mosquito fogs and sprays or encourage them to discontinue offering mosquito control services.

Create a pollinator garden in your yard. It will not only provide a lot of beauty, but it will be helping butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds.


Stay tuned

This is not a one off post. This is important and we will continue to advocate for bees, butterflies, fireflies, and other important insects.


Further reading:

State of the Birds, Cornell University 2025
What You Need to Know Before Spraying for Mosquitoes, Mizejewski and Weber 2025
A Systematic Review of Insect Decline and Discovery, Hailay and Gebremariam 2024
Spring into Action Against Mosquitoes, Aaron Anderson 2023
Nearly 3 Billion Birds Gone, Cornell Labs 2019
Effects of mosquito sprays on humans, pets, and wildlife, Colin Purrington 2018

Niagara on the Lake

Photos from a recent visit to Niagara on the Lake for the Shaw Festival and the Niagara on the Lake Horticultural Society‘s Annual Garden Tour.

We saw “Tons of Money” at the Royal George Theatre. Not the most advertised show at this year’s festival, but it was absolutely fabulous. A truly fun show. Mike Nadajewski and Julia Course kept the audience engaged from the opening curtain until the final bows.

Niagra on the Lake Shaw Festival - Tons of Money 2025
Julie Course and Mike Nadajewski, stars of Tons of Money

Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
    Determinate tomato plants grow to a fixed size, they resemble more a bush than a vine and produce most of their fruit over a short period of time. They are preferred for canning and small spaces.
    Indeterminate tomato plants grow continuously and producing fruit all season. They resemble vines and requiring significant support. They are great for fresh eating throughout the summer.
  • For a small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

See popular local varieties below

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue, use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants in the spring. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

With any luck you will have an abundant tomato harvest by late summer.

Hummingbird Nectar

Our recommendations for making Hummingbird Nectar and building a Hummingbird friendly garden.

Hummingbird

Making nectar for hummingbirds is straightforward, safe, and effective if you follow a few key guidelines. It mimics the natural nectar they get from flowers and provides the energy Hummingbirds need.

Hummingbird Nectar Recipe

  • Ratio: Mix 1 part white granulated sugar to 4 parts water (e.g., 1 cup sugar to 4 cups water). This closely matches the 20–25% sugar concentration of natural flower nectar hummingbirds prefer.
  • Steps:
  1. Boil the water to kill any bacteria or mold spores.
  2. Stir in the sugar until fully dissolved.
  3. Let it cool to room temperature before filling your feeder.
  • Storage: Store extra nectar in a clean container in the fridge for up to 1 week. Shake or stir before using.

What to Avoid

  • No Substitutes: Don’t use honey (it ferments and can grow harmful bacteria), brown sugar, artificial sweeteners, or molasses (they lack proper nutrients and may harm birds).
  • No Red Dye: It’s unnecessary and potentially toxic. Hummingbirds are drawn to the red color of the feeder itself (like your saucer-style feeder with yellow ports).
  • No Additives: Skip flavorings, vitamins, or other additives. Hummingbirds get protein and micronutrients from insects in your garden (e.g., from Blazing Star or New England Aster).

Feeder Tips for Webster, NY

  • Frequency: Refill every 2–3 days, even if it’s not empty, to keep nectar fresh. In summer heat (July–August in Webster), check daily—nectar spoils faster above 80°F.
  • Cleaning: Clean the feeder every refill with a 1:10 vinegar-water solution (e.g., 1 tablespoon white vinegar to 10 tablespoons water). Rinse thoroughly. Mold or fermentation can cause tongue infections in hummingbirds, which can be fatal.
  • Amount: For one feeder in a small garden, 1 cup of nectar (1/4 cup sugar + 1 cup water) is enough per batch. Ruby-throated Hummingbirds consume about 1–2 teaspoons daily each, and you’ll likely attract 1–3 birds regularly.

Seasonal Notes

  • Spring (May): Hummingbirds arrive in Webster around May 1–10. Have fresh nectar ready by late April to welcome them.
  • Fall (September): They leave by mid-September. Keep nectar out until you don’t see birds for a week—late migrants might stop by.
  • Winter: Remove and store the feeder after they’re gone to prevent freezing damage.

Hummingbird Nectar Troubleshooting

  • Not Drinking?: Ensure the feeder is near flowers. Check for mold or spoiled nectar. If it’s new, give birds a week to find it.
  • Too Many Birds?: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are territorial. If fighting occurs, add a second feeder 10–15 ft away to reduce competition.
  • Insects?: If you notice ants or bees at the feeder, use an ant moat (a water-filled barrier) or bee guards on the ports. Your saucer-style feeder typically has these features.

Creating a Hummingbird Friendly Garden

Plant Selection

For our example, we’re using native plants ideal for Zone 6a, chosen for nectar production, tubular flowers, and appeal to Ruby-throated Hummingbirds. They’re grouped by bloom time to ensure nectar from May to September. All are perennials unless noted and suited to a small space (approximately 10×10 ft.), in an area of yard providing sun to partial shade.

  • Early Spring (April–May):
    • Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Red-yellow tubular flowers, 1–2 ft tall, shade-tolerant, self-seeds. Plant 5–7 for a cluster.
  • Summer (June–August):
    • Bee Balm (Monarda didyma, ‘Jacob Cline’): Bright red, 2–4 ft tall, sun-loving, mildew-resistant. Plant 3–5.
    • Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis): Deep red, 2–4 ft, prefers moist soil, partial shade OK. Plant 3–5.
    • Blazing Star (Liatris spicata): Purple spikes, 2–3 ft, attracts insects (hummingbird food). Plant 5–7.
  • Late Summer/Fall (August–September):
    • Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea): Red, 1–2 ft, sun, blooms until frost if deadheaded. Annual but self-seeds. Plant 5–7.
    • New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae): Purple, 2–3 ft, supports late-season insects. Plant 3–5.

Non-Native Option (for variety):

  • Fuchsia (hanging basket): Colorful, pendulous, 1–2 ft, shade-tolerant, annual in Zone 6a. Use 1–2 baskets.

Why These?:

  • Natives support local ecology and are low-maintenance. These species are deer-resistant (common in Webster) and thrive in local clay-loam soils with minimal amendments.
  • Staggered blooms cover the hummingbird season (May–September).
  • Compact sizes fit a small garden while providing bold color clusters.

Garden Layout

Our example layout maximizes nectar visual appeal, and hummingbird comfort. Adjust based on your yard’s exact shape or shade.

  • Back Row (along fence or edge):
    • 3 Bee Balm (center, for height and red pop).
    • 2 Cardinal Flowers (flanking Bee Balm, for moist spots or partial shade).
  • Middle Row:
    • 5 Wild Columbine (early blooms, shade-tolerant, spread evenly).
    • 3 Blazing Star (mixed in, for insect attraction).
  • Front Row:
    • 5 Scarlet Sage (low-growing, bright red, long-blooming).
    • 3 New England Aster (for late-season nectar and insects).
    • Feeder: Hang 1 saucer-style feeder, 4–5 ft high near Bee Balm, in partial shade to slow nectar spoilage.
    • Perch: Add a small Redbud tree (Cercis canadensis, 6–10 ft at maturity) in a corner or just outside the 10×10 plot for perching/nesting. Alternatively, use a shepherd’s hook with a dead branch.
    • Water: Place a shallow birdbath (1–2 inches deep) with a dripper or mister in the center or a corner. Refresh water every 2 days.

Setup and Maintenance

  • Soil Prep: Test soil (kits at local nurseries like The Garden Factory in Rochester). Add compost to clay soils for drainage. Most plants tolerate Webster’s soil but prefer pH 6.0–7.0.
  • Planting: Plant in spring (mid-May) after the last frost. Space plants 12–18 inches apart (per nursery tags). Water deeply after planting.
  • Watering: Keep soil moist but not soggy, especially for Cardinal Flower. Use drip irrigation or hand-water 1–2 times weekly (more in July heat).
  • Mulching: Apply 2 inches of shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it 1 inch from stems.
  • Feeder Care: Use 1:4 sugar-water (1 cup sugar to 4 cups water, boiled, cooled). Clean feeder every 2–3 days with 1:10 vinegar-water to prevent mold. Refill before it empties to keep hummingbirds visiting.
  • Pruning: Deadhead Scarlet Sage and Bee Balm to extend blooms. Cut back perennials in late fall after frost.
  • Winter: Mulch perennials in November to protect roots. Store Fuchsia indoors or treat as an annual. Remove/clean feeder after hummingbirds leave (mid-September).

Local Tips for Webster

  • Migration Timing: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds arrive ~May 1–10 and depart ~September 10–20. Have feeders and Columbine ready by late April; keep Scarlet Sage and feeders up until late September for stragglers.
  • Nurseries: Visit our list of local plant sources. Many carry natives like Bee Balm and Columbine.
  • Pests: Deer are common; all listed plants are deer-resistant. Watch for slugs on Cardinal Flower (use diatomaceous earth). Avoid pesticides to protect hummingbirds and their insect prey.
  • Community: Join Rochester’s Native Plant Society or Cornell Cooperative Extension (Monroe County) for free advice. They offer workshops on pollinator gardens.

Sample Schedule

  • April: Prep soil, buy plants, set up feeder by May 1.
  • May: Plant, water regularly, monitor for hummingbirds.
  • June–August: Deadhead, clean feeder, refresh birdbath.
  • September: Keep feeder up until birds leave, mulch for winter.

Budget Estimate (DIY, Small Garden)

  • Plants: ~$100–150 (25 plants at $4–$6 each from local nurseries).
  • Feeder: $20–30 (e.g., Aspects HummZinger).
  • Birdbath: $30–50 (basic with dripper).
  • Mulch/Compost: $20–30.
  • Total: ~$200–260, one-time cost (perennials last years).

Why This Works

  • Compact: Fits a 10×10 ft space, with dense planting for bold color.
  • Low-Maintenance: Natives thrive in Zone 6a with minimal care.
  • Hummingbird Magnet: Red tubular flowers, a feeder, and a mister hit all their needs—nectar, protein (via insects), water, and perches.
  • Eco-Friendly: Supports pollinators and local wildlife.