Yes!
You can compost wine corks—but only if they’re natural cork (from the bark of cork oak trees). These are 100% biodegradable, carbon-rich "browns" that add great long-term structure and nutrients to your pile as they slowly break down.

Natural vs. Synthetic

Natural corks — Look and feel like real wood/bark: lightweight, porous, crumbly when cut, with a natural grain. Slice one open—if it’s uniform light tan/brown throughout and smells woody, it’s natural and compostable.
Synthetic corks — Made of plastic, foam, or silicone (common in cheaper wines): smooth, uniform color (often bright white/yellow), feel rubbery/plasticky, and don’t crumble. Do not compost these—they won’t break down and could release microplastics. Trash them or upcycle (crafts, bulletin boards, etc.).

Composting Best Practices

Prep them — Cork is tough and naturally water-resistant (that’s why it seals bottles!), so whole corks can take months to years to fully decompose in a backyard pile.

To speed things up:
Chop, slice, or grind them.
Bury pieces in the center of the pile and mix with other browns (leaves, shredded paper) and greens (kitchen scraps) for balance. This prevents them from just sitting there.

I don’t compost corks because they’re useful for other things like backdrops for shelves.

Cheers! 🍷

Possibly not.

As of March 2026, while a number of prominent tea manufactures have moved away from non-compostable tea-bags, some have moved to polylactic-acic (PLA) bioplastics, which can be composted but require the high heat of an industrial facility and won’t break down in most home composters piles.

Polylactic acid (PLA) is a biodegradable, bio-based thermoplastic derived from materials like corn starch, sugarcane, or tapioca.

Beyond the compostability of the teabags there is also the concern that bioplastic teabags potentially release nanoplastic particles into your cup while the tea is steeping and into the ground when breaking down like traditional polypropylene plastics do.

Compostable by an industrial facility
These brands have reported that they use PLA materials in their teabags and are compostable by professional services.
Barry’s Irish Tea
Bigelow Tea
Lyons Tea
Taylors of Harrogate Tea
Taylors Yorkshire Tea

Home Compostable
These brands have reported their teabags are 100% plastic free and compostable.
Bromley Tea
Prince of Peace Tea
Pukka Tea
Republic of Tea
Stash Tea
Traditional Medicinals Tea
Twinings Tea
Yogi Tea

Not Compostable
Most surprisingly, the company most American’s would associate with all natural teas, Celestial Seasonings uses plastic in their teabags (food-grade polypropylene plastic fibers derived from fossil fuels).
Celestial Seasonings Tea
Lipton Tea
Tetley Tea

Yes!
Stink bugs are perfectly fine to add to a compost heap in small to moderate quantities. They’re 100% natural organic material—mostly chitin exoskeleton and proteins—so they break down just like any other dead insect, contributing nitrogen and becoming part of the nutrient cycle.

• Insects are a normal part of healthy compost: Decomposers (bacteria, fungi, worms, etc.) routinely process dead bugs in soil and piles. They add minor nutrients (like nitrogen) and don’t introduce pathogens harmful to compost or plants when dead.
• Bury them in the pile: Toss dead ones into the center or mix them under a layer of browns (leaves, shredded paper, etc.) to speed breakdown and prevent any temporary odor or attraction of flies/scavengers.
• Keep quantities small: A handful here and there is no problem. If you’re vacuuming up dozens during an invasion, add them gradually rather than dumping a big batch at once—too many at once could create a temporary “hot spot” or slight stink as they break down (though nothing like live ones spraying).
• Method: If they died naturally, or you used soap/water or vacuumed them up, there are no residue issues. Avoid composting bugs killed with pesticides or chemical sprays, as those could harm beneficial compost organisms (e.g., worms or microbes).

No!
Alas, as a Blue Jays fan, I’d love to compost Yankee caps but like most modern baseball caps, including the Official New Era Yankees caps, they are usually made from:

• Polyester (often the primary fabric, especially in performance or modern versions—sometimes 100% polyester or high blends).
• Cotton twill (in some relaxed or “Clean Up” styles from brands like ’47, often have 100% cotton or high cotton content still have synthetic components hidden in seams, linings, or the brim reinforcement).
• Cotton-polyester blends (e.g., 40% cotton / 60% polyester in some models).
• with other elements like: Plastic snaps/buttons (on adjustable backs), synthetic threading, embroidered logos (with plastic-like stabilizers or threads), foam/viscose in the bill (stiffener), and sometimes metal eyelets or tags.

Why It Won’t Compost Well:

• Polyester and synthetics are basically plastic—they don’t biodegrade in a home compost pile (or even most industrial ones). They can persist for hundreds of years, potentially releasing microplastics into your finished compost/soil.
• Non-natural additives (dyes, treatments, glues, or stiffeners) may not break down and could introduce unwanted chemicals.
• Even if mostly cotton, the synthetic bits contaminate the pile—best practice is “when in doubt, leave it out” for clothing/textiles in home composting.

Pure 100% natural-fiber items (like undyed cotton rags with no blends/synthetics) can go in compost, but that’s rare for mass-produced hats.

Yes!
You can indead compost citrus fruit (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, etc.—including peels, whole fruit, or scraps) in a home compost heap. It’s a common myth that you shouldn’t, but that’s largely debunked by gardeners, composting experts, and extension services.

The old concerns were:

• Too acidic — Citrus is acidic when fresh, but in a balanced compost pile, the pH neutralizes quickly as microbes break it down. It won’t make your finished compost overly acidic unless citrus is the overwhelming majority of what you’re adding (which is unlikely in a normal kitchen/yard setup).
• Harmful to worms — The oils (like limonene in peels) can irritate composting worms (especially red wigglers in vermicompost bins) if added in huge amounts, making them avoid the area or slow down. But in a regular outdoor pile, earthworms can just move away temporarily if needed, and the pile still decomposes fine. Worms usually join later in the process anyway, after initial breakdown.
• Slow to break down — Peels are tough and waxy, so they take longer than softer scraps (months instead of weeks), but they do eventually decompose fully.

Best practices:

• Chop or shred peels into smaller pieces—this speeds things up a lot.
• Mix well — Bury citrus scraps in the center of the pile under layers of “browns” (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) to balance the “green” nitrogen from the fruit and prevent any temporary smell or mold.
• Moderate amounts — A few peels or a couple of fruits here and there? Totally fine. If you’re juicing a ton, add them gradually and turn the pile to aerate and heat it up.
• Hot vs. cold composting — In a hot, active pile (turned regularly), citrus breaks down faster. In a slower cold pile (common in colder NY winters), it still works but takes longer—freeze-thaw cycles actually help by breaking down cell walls over time.
• Pest deterrent bonus — The strong citrus smell can actually help repel some rodents or flies from raiding the pile.

If you’re using a worm bin (vermicomposting) indoors, though, go easy on citrus—small amounts only, or skip it to keep the worms happy.

Yes!
Not sure I would add them to my compost heap, but yes, you can compost shrimp shells (including heads, tails, and bodies) in a backyard compost heap—they’re a great organic addition that breaks down over time and provides valuable nutrients like nitrogen, calcium, and chitin (which can benefit soil health and even help suppress some plant pests/pathogens as it decomposes).

Shrimp shells are considered a "green" material (nitrogen-rich), similar to kitchen scraps or grass clippings, and they fit well into balanced compost piles. They add nitrogen for microbial activity and calcium/chitin that enriches finished compost (chitin promotes beneficial fungi and can improve soil structure).

Potential Downsides
The main concerns are temporary odor (fishy smell during initial breakdown) and attracting pests (flies, rodents, raccoons, or neighborhood animals).

To minimize problems
Bury them deep — Dig a hole or trench in the center of your pile, add the shells, mix with existing material, and cover with a thick layer of "browns" (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard, straw) to absorb moisture/odors and block access.
Crush or chop them — Break shells into smaller pieces (use a hammer, rolling pin in a bag, or food processor/blender for dried ones) to speed decomposition (whole shells can take months to years).
Pre-treat if possible — Rinse off any sauces/butter first. Some folks boil shells briefly (20–30 minutes) to reduce smell and kill bacteria, then dry them (sun-dry or oven) until crisp before adding—this makes them less attractive to pests and easier to crush.
Add in moderation — A handful or two at a time is ideal; avoid dumping large quantities all at once, as that can create a smelly, anaerobic spot.
Balance the pile — Mix with plenty of carbon-rich browns and turn/aerate regularly to keep it hot and active (heat helps break down faster and reduces odors).
Pest-proof your setup — If rodents are an issue, use a enclosed bin/tumbler with a secure lid, or bury shells extra deep (12+ inches). Avoid leaving exposed scraps on top.

Well…technically Yes,
A number of state extensions and other experts say that walnuts, even black walnut tree materials can be composted as long as the heap reaches a high internal temperature and the material is in the heap for at least six months.

Walnut trees (especially Black Walnut trees) contain a chemical called juglone that can adversely affect a number of garden plants including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rhubarb, columbine and others.

Butternut, pecan, hickory, and English walnut trees also contain the compound but in smaller amounts.

Our recommendation would be to use caution. There are plenty of other materials to compost, so why fiddle with walnuts?

ah…No!
Did you really have to click to reveal this? It’s made of flippin’ granite!

No, you cannot compost a curling stone because it is made of granite, typically sourced from Ailsa Craig in Scotland., not organic matter. Compost is for material that breaks down, and while the rock won’t harm your compost pile, it will not decompose, even over several thousand years. As a rock, it is inorganic material and will remain in your compost pile unchanged.

Yes,
You can compost Marmite — in small amounts, it should break down just fine in a home compost pile.

Marmite is basically a concentrated yeast extract (from brewer’s yeast), mixed with salt, some vegetable extracts, and spices. Yeast and its byproducts are organic and fully biodegradable:

Plain yeast (or spent brewer’s yeast) is routinely added to compost piles or used as a compost activator/fertilizer by homebrewers and gardeners — it provides nitrogen and feeds the microbes that do the decomposing work. The main "issue" is the high salt content. Too much salt at once can temporarily harm soil microbes or make the compost a bit saline if you add large quantities.

Suggested Use:

• Scrape small leftover amounts (e.g., residue from a jar, a spoonful or two into your compost — it will disappear quickly.
• Mix it in well with other materials (greens like veggie scraps + browns like leaves/cardboard) to dilute the salt.
• Avoid dumping a whole jar or large volumes at once — that much salt could slow things down or attract unwanted attention from animals (though Marmite’s strong smell might actually deter some pests rather than attract them).
• If your compost is a bokashi system or worm bin (vermicomposting), go very light or skip it — worms can be sensitive to high salt.

People even use tiny bits of yeast extract spreads like Marmite or Vegemite diluted in water as a quick microbial boost for compost teas or as a plant fertilizer in some gardening circles.

A bit of Marmite in the compost? Totally fine and even mildly beneficial.
A whole jar? Would be a waste of lovely marmite! It would be better to avoid or dilute heavily first.