Shamrock Plants

by Webster Arboretum
Shamrock plants

It doesn’t have to be St. Patrick’s Day to enjoy the charm of the shamrock plant.

Shamrock plants, commonly sold as “shamrocks” (especially around St. Patrick’s Day), are not true shamrocks or clovers. They belong to the Oxalis genus (of the wood sorrel family, Oxalidaceae), and are often referred to as false shamrocks, purple shamrocks, or simply oxalis.

Legend holds that St. Patrick used the three-leafed clover to explain the Holy Trinity—Father, Son, and Holy Spirit—to the Irish people in the 4th century. The word “shamrock” derives from the Irish words seamair óg or young clover.

Clovers ( or trefoils), are plants of the genus Trifolium (from Latin tres ‘three’ and folium ‘leaf’).

There is some dispute between historians as to which variety of clover is the true shamrock.

Whether the true shamrock is Trifolium dubium (lesser/yellow clover, seamair bhuí), Trifolium repens (white clover, seamair bhán) or Trifolium pratense (red clover, seamair dhearg), we’ll leave it to the Irish historians to battle it out.

All three varieties of clover would make really lousy houseplants…hence the popularity of oxalis!

Oxalis come in numerous forms and from multiple parts of the world, but the ones promoted around St. Patrick’s Day have clover-like (trifoliate) leaves. While there are oxalis varieties native to Ireland, many of the varieties sold in home improvement stores and grocery stores around St. Patrick’s Day originate from South America or Africa.

Shamrock plants: Oxalis triangularis
Shamrock plants: Oxalis regnellii
Shamrock plants: Oxalis tetraphylla

St. Patrick’s Day Shamrock plant varieties:

  • Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock or false shamrock) — with deep purple to burgundy leaves, often with a darker center triangle pattern.
  • Oxalis regnellii (green shamrock) — Native of South America with bright green leaves.
  • Oxalis tetraphylla (four-leaf sorrel or iron cross) — green with a burgundy colored center

Other popular oxalis varieties:

  • Oxalis adenophylla (silver shamrock) — Native to Argentina and Chile. Has light pink flowers with heavily divided leaflets. Cold hardy to zone 4.
  • Oxalis vulcanicola (molten lava, copper glow) — Native of Mexico. Has brightly coloured leaves and flowers.
  • Oxalis oregana (redwood sorrel) — clove like leaves with pink veined white flowers.
  • Oxalis griffithii — Native of Asia. Cold hardy to zone 4. Spreads via rhizomes, not bulbs.
  • Oxalis acetosella — Native to Europe. Green with white flowers. Spreads via rhizomes, not bulbs.

General characteristics:

  • Leaves are trifoliate (three heart-shaped leaflets) that fold up at night or in low light (a movement called nyctinasty).
  • They produce delicate, small flowers — usually white, pink, or pale purple — that bloom for long periods.
  • They grow in clumps of small bulbs known as corms,
  • They’re perennials and are usually grown indoors as houseplants, but can be grown outdoors in warmer climates (USDA zones 8a–11, in light shade).

Many people love them for their vibrant color (especially the purple varieties, which add contrast to green-heavy plant collections) and the way leaves “respond” to light and time of day. They are also easy to grow low-maintenance plants.

Basic care tips (as houseplants):

  • Light — Bright, indirect light is ideal; some gentle morning sun works, but avoid harsh afternoon direct sun to prevent scorching.
  • Water — Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy — let the top dry slightly between waterings. They don’t like their feet too wet as they will begin to rot.
  • Temperature — Prefers cooler conditions (around 60–75°F / 15–24°C); hot temperatures can trigger dormancy.
  • Soil — Well-draining potting mix (with perlite or sand for aeration).
  • Fertilizer — Light feeding with balanced houseplant fertilizer during active growth (spring/fall); skip in dormancy.
  • Dormancy — They typically go dormant for a brief period during the summer. Their leaves will die back and they may even look quite dead. Don’t despair and throw them away! Reduce watering, and possibly move them to a cooler spot out of the sun. Once they’ve rested for a month or so, they’ll surprise you and pop right back.
  • Toxicity — They’re toxic if ingested in large quantities (they contain oxalic acid, like rhubarb leaves), so it’s best to keep them out of reach of pets and young children.

They’re easy to propagate by dividing the bulbs and can live for years with proper rest periods.

Overall, shamrock Oxalis plants are charming, eye-catching additions to indoor spaces — especially the purple ones that look almost like butterflies! If you’re thinking of getting one, they’re widely available as potted plants or bulbs.

Oxalis plants (like the popular shamrock or purple shamrock, Oxalis triangularis, and green shamrock, Oxalis regnellii) are among the easier houseplants to propagate. They primarily grow from small bulb-like structures called corms or tubers, which multiply naturally over time. This makes dividing them pretty straight forward.

Division of Bulbs/Corms

When to do it — Wait until the plant goes dormant (foliage fully dies back). This is usually the easiest time, as the bulbs are resting and multiply readily.

  1. Gently remove the entire plant from its pot.
  2. Shake off excess soil to expose the small, clustered bulbs (they look like tiny onions or garlic cloves, often brown and papery).
  3. Separate the bulbs by hand — they usually pull apart easily. If clustered tightly, use clean fingers or a small tool to tease them apart without damaging them.
  4. Discard any mushy, rotten, or shriveled bulbs.
  5. Plant the separated bulbs in fresh, well-draining potting mix (add perlite for extra drainage). Bury them about 1–2 inches deep, pointy end up if visible.
  6. Water lightly and place in bright, indirect light. New growth (leaves) should emerge in a few weeks to a couple of months.

Their bulbs multiply quickly (a single plant can produce many offsets in a season), so you can get several new plants from one mature clump.

Hummingbird Nectar

by Webster Arboretum

Our recommendations for making Hummingbird Nectar and building a Hummingbird friendly garden.

Hummingbird

Making nectar for hummingbirds is straightforward, safe, and effective if you follow a few key guidelines. It mimics the natural nectar they get from flowers and provides the energy Hummingbirds need.

Hummingbird Nectar Recipe

  • Ratio: Mix 1 part white granulated sugar to 4 parts water (e.g., 1 cup sugar to 4 cups water). This closely matches the 20–25% sugar concentration of natural flower nectar hummingbirds prefer.
  • Steps:
  1. Boil the water to kill any bacteria or mold spores.
  2. Stir in the sugar until fully dissolved.
  3. Let it cool to room temperature before filling your feeder.
  • Storage: Store extra nectar in a clean container in the fridge for up to 1 week. Shake or stir before using.

What to Avoid

  • No Substitutes: Don’t use honey (it ferments and can grow harmful bacteria), brown sugar, artificial sweeteners, or molasses (they lack proper nutrients and may harm birds).
  • No Red Dye: It’s unnecessary and potentially toxic. Hummingbirds are drawn to the red color of the feeder itself (like your saucer-style feeder with yellow ports).
  • No Additives: Skip flavorings, vitamins, or other additives. Hummingbirds get protein and micronutrients from insects in your garden (e.g., from Blazing Star or New England Aster).

Feeder Tips for Webster, NY

  • Frequency: Refill every 2–3 days, even if it’s not empty, to keep nectar fresh. In summer heat (July–August in Webster), check daily—nectar spoils faster above 80°F.
  • Cleaning: Clean the feeder every refill with a 1:10 vinegar-water solution (e.g., 1 tablespoon white vinegar to 10 tablespoons water). Rinse thoroughly. Mold or fermentation can cause tongue infections in hummingbirds, which can be fatal.
  • Amount: For one feeder in a small garden, 1 cup of nectar (1/4 cup sugar + 1 cup water) is enough per batch. Ruby-throated Hummingbirds consume about 1–2 teaspoons daily each, and you’ll likely attract 1–3 birds regularly.

Seasonal Notes

  • Spring (May): Hummingbirds arrive in Webster around May 1–10. Have fresh nectar ready by late April to welcome them.
  • Fall (September): They leave by mid-September. Keep nectar out until you don’t see birds for a week—late migrants might stop by.
  • Winter: Remove and store the feeder after they’re gone to prevent freezing damage.

Hummingbird Nectar Troubleshooting

  • Not Drinking?: Ensure the feeder is near flowers. Check for mold or spoiled nectar. If it’s new, give birds a week to find it.
  • Too Many Birds?: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are territorial. If fighting occurs, add a second feeder 10–15 ft away to reduce competition.
  • Insects?: If you notice ants or bees at the feeder, use an ant moat (a water-filled barrier) or bee guards on the ports. Your saucer-style feeder typically has these features.

Creating a Hummingbird Friendly Garden

Plant Selection

For our example, we’re using native plants ideal for Zone 6a, chosen for nectar production, tubular flowers, and appeal to Ruby-throated Hummingbirds. They’re grouped by bloom time to ensure nectar from May to September. All are perennials unless noted and suited to a small space (approximately 10×10 ft.), in an area of yard providing sun to partial shade.

  • Early Spring (April–May):
    • Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Red-yellow tubular flowers, 1–2 ft tall, shade-tolerant, self-seeds. Plant 5–7 for a cluster.
  • Summer (June–August):
    • Bee Balm (Monarda didyma, ‘Jacob Cline’): Bright red, 2–4 ft tall, sun-loving, mildew-resistant. Plant 3–5.
    • Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis): Deep red, 2–4 ft, prefers moist soil, partial shade OK. Plant 3–5.
    • Blazing Star (Liatris spicata): Purple spikes, 2–3 ft, attracts insects (hummingbird food). Plant 5–7.
  • Late Summer/Fall (August–September):
    • Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea): Red, 1–2 ft, sun, blooms until frost if deadheaded. Annual but self-seeds. Plant 5–7.
    • New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae): Purple, 2–3 ft, supports late-season insects. Plant 3–5.

Non-Native Option (for variety):

  • Fuchsia (hanging basket): Colorful, pendulous, 1–2 ft, shade-tolerant, annual in Zone 6a. Use 1–2 baskets.

Why These?:

  • Natives support local ecology and are low-maintenance. These species are deer-resistant (common in Webster) and thrive in local clay-loam soils with minimal amendments.
  • Staggered blooms cover the hummingbird season (May–September).
  • Compact sizes fit a small garden while providing bold color clusters.

Garden Layout

Our example layout maximizes nectar visual appeal, and hummingbird comfort. Adjust based on your yard’s exact shape or shade.

  • Back Row (along fence or edge):
    • 3 Bee Balm (center, for height and red pop).
    • 2 Cardinal Flowers (flanking Bee Balm, for moist spots or partial shade).
  • Middle Row:
    • 5 Wild Columbine (early blooms, shade-tolerant, spread evenly).
    • 3 Blazing Star (mixed in, for insect attraction).
  • Front Row:
    • 5 Scarlet Sage (low-growing, bright red, long-blooming).
    • 3 New England Aster (for late-season nectar and insects).
    • Feeder: Hang 1 saucer-style feeder, 4–5 ft high near Bee Balm, in partial shade to slow nectar spoilage.
    • Perch: Add a small Redbud tree (Cercis canadensis, 6–10 ft at maturity) in a corner or just outside the 10×10 plot for perching/nesting. Alternatively, use a shepherd’s hook with a dead branch.
    • Water: Place a shallow birdbath (1–2 inches deep) with a dripper or mister in the center or a corner. Refresh water every 2 days.

Setup and Maintenance

  • Soil Prep: Test soil (kits at local nurseries like The Garden Factory in Rochester). Add compost to clay soils for drainage. Most plants tolerate Webster’s soil but prefer pH 6.0–7.0.
  • Planting: Plant in spring (mid-May) after the last frost. Space plants 12–18 inches apart (per nursery tags). Water deeply after planting.
  • Watering: Keep soil moist but not soggy, especially for Cardinal Flower. Use drip irrigation or hand-water 1–2 times weekly (more in July heat).
  • Mulching: Apply 2 inches of shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it 1 inch from stems.
  • Feeder Care: Use 1:4 sugar-water (1 cup sugar to 4 cups water, boiled, cooled). Clean feeder every 2–3 days with 1:10 vinegar-water to prevent mold. Refill before it empties to keep hummingbirds visiting.
  • Pruning: Deadhead Scarlet Sage and Bee Balm to extend blooms. Cut back perennials in late fall after frost.
  • Winter: Mulch perennials in November to protect roots. Store Fuchsia indoors or treat as an annual. Remove/clean feeder after hummingbirds leave (mid-September).

Local Tips for Webster

  • Migration Timing: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds arrive ~May 1–10 and depart ~September 10–20. Have feeders and Columbine ready by late April; keep Scarlet Sage and feeders up until late September for stragglers.
  • Nurseries: Visit our list of local plant sources. Many carry natives like Bee Balm and Columbine.
  • Pests: Deer are common; all listed plants are deer-resistant. Watch for slugs on Cardinal Flower (use diatomaceous earth). Avoid pesticides to protect hummingbirds and their insect prey.
  • Community: Join Rochester’s Native Plant Society or Cornell Cooperative Extension (Monroe County) for free advice. They offer workshops on pollinator gardens.

Sample Schedule

  • April: Prep soil, buy plants, set up feeder by May 1.
  • May: Plant, water regularly, monitor for hummingbirds.
  • June–August: Deadhead, clean feeder, refresh birdbath.
  • September: Keep feeder up until birds leave, mulch for winter.

Budget Estimate (DIY, Small Garden)

  • Plants: ~$100–150 (25 plants at $4–$6 each from local nurseries).
  • Feeder: $20–30 (e.g., Aspects HummZinger).
  • Birdbath: $30–50 (basic with dripper).
  • Mulch/Compost: $20–30.
  • Total: ~$200–260, one-time cost (perennials last years).

Why This Works

  • Compact: Fits a 10×10 ft space, with dense planting for bold color.
  • Low-Maintenance: Natives thrive in Zone 6a with minimal care.
  • Hummingbird Magnet: Red tubular flowers, a feeder, and a mister hit all their needs—nectar, protein (via insects), water, and perches.
  • Eco-Friendly: Supports pollinators and local wildlife.

Holiday Bulbs to brighten up your day!

by GOL


Paperwhites, Amaryllis, and Hyacinth are all flower bulbs that can bloom indoors for the holiday season. Bring color and fragrance into your home to fight off the winter doldrums and brighten your day

First Step

When selecting a bulb, always pick larger bulbs as they have more stored energy and will produce bigger, healthier plants. Not only do smaller bulbs produce smaller flowers, but you may need to buy more to create the same effect as larger bulbs. When choosing your bulbs, feel them to make sure they are hard and sturdy. Bulbs that feel soft or have signs of mold on them have already started to decay and will not produce flowers. The quality of the bulb will determine the success of your blooms.

Amaryllis

The Amaryllis bulb takes about 6-8 weeks to flower, depending on growing conditions, so for the holiday season they should be planted in early November.  Keep in mind the type of bulb, the temperature, light level, and watering will all impact how long it takes for the bulb to reach full bloom.

Amaryllis enjoy being pot bound in a narrow container but need drainage holes to grow. With consistent watering, a sunny window, and temperature around 70 degrees, your Amaryllis should be on its way to blooming. Be sure to rotate your pot 180 degrees frequently to keep the plant from stretching toward the sun.

The method for planting Amaryllis bulbs:

  1. Soak the base of the bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours before planting. This rehydrates the roots and helps to speed up growth. 
  2. Choose a pot or container (with drainage holes) that’s about 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the Amaryllis bulb.
  3. Use a well-draining potting mix, preferably with a mix of organic matter and perlite. Amaryllis bulbs need good drainage, so avoid heavy soils. 
  4. Place the Amaryllis bulb in the soil about two-thirds deep. Leave the top one-third of the bulb above the soil line.
  5. Water your bulb thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. Place the pot in a sunny location where it receives indirect sunlight. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Reduce watering after the initial growth phase. 
  6. As the Amaryllis develops it is beneficial to feed it with a balanced fertilizer every 2-4 weeks and use support to keep it upright – as it is likely to be top-heavy once its large flowers bloom. 

Don’t discard amaryllis after it blooms, as they can be encouraged with the right care to flower again the following year.  Note that waxed bulbs are intended for single use. They have all they need to bloom, but after that, they are meant to be discarded. The idea is that sealing the bulb with wax prevents moisture loss and the bulb will be able to bloom once without any additional water or soil. A waxed amaryllis bulb can be planted after it blooms if you are able to remove the wax first, but it’s highly likely that it won’t be a viable plant.

Paperwhite narcissi

Paperwhite is another holiday flower you’ll find growing in pots and vases throughout the holidays. It has tall stems and star-shaped flowers and is easy to grow. Each bulb produces two to three stems of brilliant white flowers that create a beautiful holiday arrangement. Bulbs sold for indoor growing don’t require a chilling period and will flower within a matter of weeks, making them ideal last-minute gifts.

  1. Cover the bulbs with potting soil and leave one-third of the bulb bare.
  2. Water thoroughly, but don’t give your bulbs wet feet.
  3. When you notice green growth, expose your bulbs to bright indirect light with a temperature around 65 degrees. The blooms generally last for about two weeks. 

Just like Hyacinths, potting soil isn’t required. You can plant the bulbs in a clear vase filled with glass beads or gravel. Place the bulbs so that one third to a half is still visible. Don’t be afraid to pack them in to guarantee a display with real impact. Fill the bowl with water so that the base of the bulb just touches the water. Once the roots appear drop the water level, so it isn’t touching the bulbs.

Hyacinths

A fragrant centerpiece for Christmas tables, the Hyacinth features clusters of flowers that come in a variety of colors.

  1. When growing them in soil, cover the bulb completely except for the tip and leave them in a relatively dark, cool area above 45 degrees Fahrenheit until they develop roots.
  2. When the shoots are roughly 1 inch, gradually expose them to brighter, warmer conditions.
  3. Water your plant deeply, but never let the soil get soggy. 

Hyacinths can grow in any planting medium, such as standard potting soil, wet gravel or even water. Hyacinth jars are an hourglass shape. Its pinched-in waste supports the bulb just above the water sitting in the bottom half of the jar.

  1. Pour in water up to the jar’s waist and position the bulb so its base sits a fraction above the water below. In this way the bulb has access to moisture without risk of rotting.
  2. Place the jar into a cool, dark place—a refrigerator, cellar or unheated garage—and keep it there until roots appear and establish. This usually takes about three weeks, at which time the jar can be moved into a bright, airy room to encourage the flowers to develop.

Alternatively arrange bulbs in shallow bowls or dishes filled with gravel, pebbles or anything that holds the bulbs upright. Plant them close together so that they sit side by side without touching. Fill the bowl with water to the base of the bulbs then finish off with a decorative dressing of your choosing.

How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom

Whether you want to encourage your Christmas Cactus to bloom again, or it is slow to bloom, there are ways to trick your cactus into producing blooms at just the right time.

  1. These cacti will be prone to put out blooms if they experience about a week of long nights and shorter days. If your area is experiencing this naturally, just putting your cactus in a windowsill and exposing it to the natural cycle of days will help encourage blooms, since it will be subject to 12 or more hours of darkness per day. Don’t expose your plant to any artificial light at night.
  2. They like cooler temperatures, so keep Christmas cacti away from heaters and radiators and leave in a cool windowsill where temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees.
  3. Water only when the soil is dry to the touch, and then only water the top inch of your soil. This will provide your cactus with the push into dormancy, and it will start to flower.
  4. Stop fertilization about a month before you wish to have blooms. This encourages the plant to focus its energy on producing those blooms that you want for your holiday décor.

Hope these tips will help you create an atmosphere of beauty throughout your home this holiday season.

Fall Gardening Tidbits

by GOL

Unfortunately, our growing season is winding down and now is the time to start readying your lawn, garden and landscape for the coming winter season, as well as get a head start on spring. Do you want to relocate a tree or shrub? Do your perennials need to be divided? Do you want to add some spring blooming bulbs? September is the time to get busy. Here are some tips to get you started…

Trees and Shrubs

For most deciduous shrubs and trees– late August to mid-September is a good time for transplanting! Fall transplants can benefit from the cooler, moister weather ahead. Thanks to autumn rains, the plant’s roots will get a chance to grow and develop and allow them to stock up on needed nutrients before the ground freezes.

The best time to transplant raspberries and blueberry bushes is when they’re dormant. Any time between fall and spring when they’re not fruiting or growing new leaves. October through December are ideal as long as the ground is not frozen.

You can transplant evergreen trees through early September. This is actually the preferred time for transplanting evergreens since it gives those trees the entire winter season to reestablish root systems. This will usually mean the tree will be less stressed and can recover faster in spring. Once you reach late September, your evergreens may not have adequate time to reestablish adequate root systems.
Be sure to water every 3 to 4 days for the first few weeks after transplanting, and at least once a week until the ground is frozen.

Perennials/Bulbs

How do you know if your perennials should be dividing? Did they produce smaller blooms than past seasons, develop a ‘bald spot’ at the center or require staking to prevent their stems from falling over? Then they need to be divided. You may also decide to divide perennials to redistribute to other garden locations. Plan your spring garden now and add your perennial divisions where desired.

As a general rule, spring and summer blooming perennials should be divided into late summer/early fall and fall blooming perennials in the spring. After dividing clumps transplant immediately to keep them from drying out.

Peonies. Dividing peonies in September allows them to become established before winter. In late fall, mulch newly planted peonies with several inches of straw or pine needles, removing the protection in the spring when new growth resumes.

Daylilies can be divided in September. Dig up the clump, shake to remove soil and carefully pull the clump apart. You may need to cut them apart with a sharp knife. Each division should have a good root system and at least three leaves. Replant the divided clumps immediately, so the crowns are one inch below the soil surface.

Bearded Iris should be divided typically (every 3-5 years) when clumps become too large or when flowering decreases. Carefully dig up clumps, cut leaves back to one-third of their height, wash off and cut rhizomes so each division has a fan of leaves and a healthy rhizome with several good-sized roots. Discard old rhizomes from the center of the clump. Dig a shallow hole just slightly deeper than the root portion of the iris, and then create a slight mound of soil in the center of the hole. Position the rhizome section over the mound so the roots spread out facing downward and the top of the rhizome is just above the soil line. A common mistake is to plant iris too deep. Pack new soil around the iris, and then water thoroughly.

Spring Blooming Bulbs. Late September or October is the time to plant spring-blooming bulbs such as daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops, tulips, hyacinths, irises and alliums.

To stimulate root growth, scratch a small handful of granular fertilizer into the soil at the bottom of the hole, and flatten the area with your hand so bulbs have a stable surface on which to rest. Place bulbs in the prepared hole about an inch apart, with tip up and root end down. Cover with soil, and water once to settle them.

For a dramatic show of spring-flowering bulbs, plant smaller perennial species near larger bulbs. That way, you’ll get twice the vibrancy in the same space.

Vegetable Crops

It’s important to clear away diseased plants and any dead or rotting plant material. Pest insects, like squash bugs, and diseases will overwinter, bridging the gap between this year’s crops and the next.

Chop beans and peas off at ground level, leaving their nitrogen-fixing roots in the soil to feed next year’s crops.

Fall is a great time to work to improve the quality of your soil. If you have harvested garden plants such as beans, sweet corn, or carrots and are left with an open space, consider planting a cover crop. Cover crops help to prevent erosion, add/retain nutrients by providing organic matter, and dispense many additional benefits to your soil. Apply compost in a one-fourth-inch layer and spread thinly to improve the soil structure.

Pull small weeds and cut off large ones before they go to seed and remove them from the garden. Removing weeds before their seeds mature will decrease the number of weeds that will grow in your garden next year! Winter annual weeds like henbit, common chickweed, and shepherd’s purse will germinate in the fall and resume growth in spring. Managing them now prevents weed problems in the spring!

Lawns

Set your mower blades fairly high for the season’s final cut leaving the grass to grow a little longer over the winter. This higher cut will protect the soil and make your turf healthier. Soil-enriching caterpillars and other bugs bury right down into the thatch; a close-cropped lawn doesn’t do them any favors. Take the grass catcher off your mower and mow over the leaves on your lawn. You want to reduce your leaf litter to dime-size pieces. It might take more than one pass with the mower to get the shreds to the desired size, depending on the leaf type and volume. You will know you’re done mowing leaves when about half an inch of grass can be seen through the mulched leaf layer. Once the leaf bits settle in, microbes and worms get to work recycling them. Decomposing leaves add nutrients to the soil, which in turn can nourish your grass, add beneficials and reduce weeds in the spring.

Late-August through mid-September is a good time to renovate lawns, repair bare spots, and plant new lawns. If you are renovating or reseeding your lawn, it’s important to pick the right kind of grass for your situation. Each of the four most popular cool-season lawn grasses have strengths and weaknesses and it is important to consider maintenance issues and sun/shade components. So be sure to do your research.

Hopefully, you will find this information helpful.

Happy September from The Webster Arboretum!