Quickies

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Short answers to some of your recent questions

Hi Zoe,

I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?

Marty C.

Hi Marty,
Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.

Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.

Hope it flowers soon!

Hi Zoe,

Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?

Cynthia H.

Hi Cynthia,
Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.

Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.

Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.

Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.

Happy Growing!

Zoe,

Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?

Carol J.

Hi Carol,
I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.

Zoe,

Is it too late to plant poppies?

Mary R.

Hi Mary,
Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.

Hi Zoe,

Where do you buy your plants?

Renee M.

Hi Renee,
It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Scarlet Lily Beetles

by Zoe

Hey Zoe,

For the past few weeks I’ve noticed these bright red beetles on my lilies causing all kinds of damage. What should I do?

Lucy W.

Hi Lucy,
What you are likely seeing is the Scarlet Lily Beetle (Lilioceris lilii). While attractive at first glace, scarlet lily beetles are horribly destructive. They first appeared in New York State around 2012 after being accidentally imported to Canada in the late 1940s.

Scarlet lily beetles and their larvae, can defoliate Asiatic, Oriental, Martagon and similar lily species, causing strain to the plant and adversely affecting its appearance. At least they don’t bother daylilies.

Here are hopefully a few effective organic methods to manage scarlet lily beetles.

Identification and Timing

  • Appearance: Adults are 6–8 mm long, bright red with black heads, legs, and undersides. They drop and flip upside down when disturbed, blending into soil. Larvae are orange-brown, slug-like, and cover themselves with black excrement, feeding voraciously on leaf undersides.
  • Lifecycle: Adults emerge in early spring (April–May), lay 250–450 red eggs in rows on leaf undersides, and larvae hatch in 4–8 days, feeding for 16–24 days before pupating in soil. A second generation may appear in mid-summer. They overwinter as adults in soil or debris.
Scarlet Lily Beetle
Soapy Water

Organic Control Methods

Hand-Picking:

  • Tools: An old pickle or jam jar filled with warm soapy water and a medium sized artist’s paint brush.
  • How: Check plants early morning when beetles are sluggish. When you spot a beetle or larvae on a lily leaf, hold the jar of soapy water beneath the leaf and brush the beetle into the water. Works well for Japanese Beetles infestations as well.
  • Frequency: Every 2–3 days, focusing on undersides and leaf-stem junctions.

Egg and Larvae Removal:

  • How: Inspect leaf undersides for red egg rows and larvae. Remove with a brush in a similar manner. Don’t touch the larvae, their excrement coating is gross!
  • Frequency: Twice weekly during June–July when eggs and larvae peak.

Traps and Barriers:

  • Grapefruit Rinds: Place rinds near lilies to attract beetles, check daily, and dispose of in warm soapy water. This could double as a slug control.
  • Diatomaceous Earth (DE): Sprinkle food-grade DE around lily bases (1-inch band). It dehydrates beetles and larvae on contact. Reapply after rain.

Encourage Natural Predators:

  • How: Attract birds (e.g., via a birdbath or feeder), frogs, or ground beetles by avoiding pesticides. Parasitoid wasps (e.g., Tetrastichus setifer) are being introduced in some areas and may eventually reach NY, targeting beetle larvae.

Neem Oil (I don’t use it, but if you’re short on time):

  • How: Apply neem oil (mixed with water and a drop of soap) every 5–7 days, covering all leaf surfaces, especially undersides. Continue through the summer.
  • Caution: Use early morning or late evening to avoid harming pollinators. Test on a small area first.
  • Does it work?: Some report limited success.

Additional Tips

  • Sanitation: Remove plant debris and loosen the top 2–3 inches of soil around lilies after the first frost (October) to disrupt overwintering adults.
  • Resistant Varieties: If damage persists, consider lilies like ‘Defender Pink’ or species like Lilium henryi ‘Madame Butterfly’, which show some resistance. Avoid replacing all lilies—your garden’s diversity is a strength.
  • Avoid Chemicals: Insecticides (e.g., permethrin) work but could also harm birds and beneficial insects.

Reality Check

Hand-picking is labor-intensive but effective for a small garden. Some gardeners report cyclical declines after years of diligence, suggesting persistence pays off. If beetles overwhelm despite efforts, reducing lily numbers or switching to resistant types might be pragmatic, though it’s a last resort given their beauty.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.

In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Growing Tomatoes

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Best for Webster:
  • Early Girl (50–60 days to harvest): Quick-maturing, good for cooler climates, medium-sized fruit.
  • Jet Star (70 days): Disease-resistant, prolific, great flavor, medium-large fruit.
  • Big Beef (73 days): Large, flavorful beefsteak, performs well in Zone 6a.
  • Sungold (57 days): Sweet cherry tomatoes, high-yield, hummingbirds may visit blossoms.
  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
  • Determinate (e.g., Early Girl): Compact, set fruit all at once, good for small spaces.
  • Indeterminate (e.g., Sungold, Big Beef): Grow/vine all season, produce until frost, need more support but yield more over time.
  • For your small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue (common in Webster), use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Local Tips for Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants now. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Quick Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

This approach will give you a solid tomato harvest by late summer while keeping your hummingbird garden thriving. If you want to focus on a specific variety, pest control, or container growing (if space gets tight), let me know!

Growing Tomatoes

Our Campari Experiment

We started campari seedlings indoors in March, from tomatoes purchased at Wegmans.

Growing campari tomatoes from supermarket tomatoes can be a fun experiment, but there are some challenges and considerations, especially in Webster, NY (Zone 6a). Campari tomatoes are sweet, juicy, cocktail-sized fruits (about 1–2 inches), typically grown as indeterminate varieties, which means they’ll vine and produce over a long season.

Pros

  • Availability: You already have Campari tomatoes, so it’s a cost-free start. If the seeds are viable, you can grow a plant without buying transplants.
  • Flavor Potential: If the supermarket Campari are from a non-hybrid or open-pollinated variety, you might replicate their sweet taste. Hybrids, however, may not breed true, leading to variable offspring.
  • Learning Experience: It’s a great way to learn seed-saving and germination, especially in a small backyard garden.

Cons and Challenges

  • Hybrid Risk: Most supermarket Campari tomatoes (e.g., those from brands like NatureSweet) are F1 hybrids, bred for uniformity and shelf life. Seeds from hybrids often produce plants with inconsistent fruit quality—smaller, less sweet, or different shapes than the parent. Check the packaging; if it says “hybrid” or lacks “heirloom” or “open-pollinated,” expect variability.
  • Viability: Supermarket tomatoes are often stored long-term, reducing seed germination rates. Seeds may be old or treated, lowering success odds.
  • Disease Risk: Store-bought tomatoes might carry pathogens (e.g., early blight or bacterial spot) from handling or storage, which can transfer to your garden soil, especially in Webster’s humid summers.
  • Timing: At mid-May, you’re at the edge of planting season. Starting from seed now means a late harvest (80–100 days for Campari), potentially into September or October, risking frost damage (expected ~October 5–15 in Webster).
  • Space: Campari’s indeterminate growth needs support (cages or stakes) and 2–3 ft spacing, which could crowd your 10×8 ft hummingbird bed if not planned carefully.

Is It a Good Idea?

  • Not Ideal, but Possible: It’s not the best approach for a reliable harvest due to hybrid likelihood and timing, but it can work with effort. For a small garden like yours, starting with store-bought seeds or transplants would be more efficient. However, if you’re set on trying, here’s how to make it succeed.

How to Grow Campari from Supermarket Tomatoes

  1. Extract Seeds:
  • Scoop out the gel and seeds from a ripe Campari tomato.
  • Place in a small jar with water, let ferment for 2–3 days (until a mold layer forms—this removes germination inhibitors). Stir daily.
  • Rinse seeds in a fine sieve, dry on a paper towel for 1–2 days (not in direct sun), then store in a cool, dry place until planting.
  1. Germination:
  • Since it’s May 13, start seeds indoors now for a head start. Use seed trays with potting mix, plant 1/4 inch deep, keep at 75–85°F (use a heat mat if possible).
  • Expect germination in 5–10 days. Transplant seedlings outside when they have 2–4 true leaves and nighttime temps stay above 50°F (likely late May in Webster).
  1. Planting:
  • Choose a sunny spot in your bed.
  • Harden off seedlings for 7–10 days (gradual outdoor exposure). Plant 2–3 ft apart, burying the stem deep (as with other tomatoes).
  • Install a 5–6 ft cage or stake immediately.
  1. Care:
  • Water deeply (1–2 inches weekly) at the base, mulch with straw, and fertilize with 5-10-10 when flowering starts.
  • Prune suckers to focus growth. Watch for blight (common in Webster); use drip irrigation and space plants for air circulation.
  • Harvest in late August–October (80–100 days from transplanting).

Alternatives

  • Buy Transplants: Local nurseries sell Campari transplants now for $4–6 each. They’re bred for your zone, ensuring better yield and timing (harvest by August).
  • Save for Next Year: Extract and dry seeds now, store them, and start indoors in March 2026 for a 2026 season. This avoids the late-start issue.

Recommendation

  • Try It, but Hedge Your Bet: Go ahead with the supermarket seeds as an experiment—start 2–3 indoors today. Simultaneously, buy 1–2 Campari transplants this week for a guaranteed harvest by August. This balances the gamble with reliability.
  • Monitor: If hybrid offspring disappoint (e.g., small or bland fruit), note it for next year and source heirloom Campari seeds.

Hummingbird Nectar

by Webster Arboretum

Our recommendations for making Hummingbird Nectar and building a Hummingbird friendly garden.

Hummingbird

Making nectar for hummingbirds is straightforward, safe, and effective if you follow a few key guidelines. It mimics the natural nectar they get from flowers and provides the energy Hummingbirds need.

Hummingbird Nectar Recipe

  • Ratio: Mix 1 part white granulated sugar to 4 parts water (e.g., 1 cup sugar to 4 cups water). This closely matches the 20–25% sugar concentration of natural flower nectar hummingbirds prefer.
  • Steps:
  1. Boil the water to kill any bacteria or mold spores.
  2. Stir in the sugar until fully dissolved.
  3. Let it cool to room temperature before filling your feeder.
  • Storage: Store extra nectar in a clean container in the fridge for up to 1 week. Shake or stir before using.

What to Avoid

  • No Substitutes: Don’t use honey (it ferments and can grow harmful bacteria), brown sugar, artificial sweeteners, or molasses (they lack proper nutrients and may harm birds).
  • No Red Dye: It’s unnecessary and potentially toxic. Hummingbirds are drawn to the red color of the feeder itself (like your saucer-style feeder with yellow ports).
  • No Additives: Skip flavorings, vitamins, or other additives. Hummingbirds get protein and micronutrients from insects in your garden (e.g., from Blazing Star or New England Aster).

Feeder Tips for Webster, NY

  • Frequency: Refill every 2–3 days, even if it’s not empty, to keep nectar fresh. In summer heat (July–August in Webster), check daily—nectar spoils faster above 80°F.
  • Cleaning: Clean the feeder every refill with a 1:10 vinegar-water solution (e.g., 1 tablespoon white vinegar to 10 tablespoons water). Rinse thoroughly. Mold or fermentation can cause tongue infections in hummingbirds, which can be fatal.
  • Amount: For one feeder in a small garden, 1 cup of nectar (1/4 cup sugar + 1 cup water) is enough per batch. Ruby-throated Hummingbirds consume about 1–2 teaspoons daily each, and you’ll likely attract 1–3 birds regularly.

Seasonal Notes

  • Spring (May): Hummingbirds arrive in Webster around May 1–10. Have fresh nectar ready by late April to welcome them.
  • Fall (September): They leave by mid-September. Keep nectar out until you don’t see birds for a week—late migrants might stop by.
  • Winter: Remove and store the feeder after they’re gone to prevent freezing damage.

Hummingbird Nectar Troubleshooting

  • Not Drinking?: Ensure the feeder is near flowers. Check for mold or spoiled nectar. If it’s new, give birds a week to find it.
  • Too Many Birds?: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are territorial. If fighting occurs, add a second feeder 10–15 ft away to reduce competition.
  • Insects?: If you notice ants or bees at the feeder, use an ant moat (a water-filled barrier) or bee guards on the ports. Your saucer-style feeder typically has these features.

Creating a Hummingbird Friendly Garden

Plant Selection

For our example, we’re using native plants ideal for Zone 6a, chosen for nectar production, tubular flowers, and appeal to Ruby-throated Hummingbirds. They’re grouped by bloom time to ensure nectar from May to September. All are perennials unless noted and suited to a small space (approximately 10×10 ft.), in an area of yard providing sun to partial shade.

  • Early Spring (April–May):
    • Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Red-yellow tubular flowers, 1–2 ft tall, shade-tolerant, self-seeds. Plant 5–7 for a cluster.
  • Summer (June–August):
    • Bee Balm (Monarda didyma, ‘Jacob Cline’): Bright red, 2–4 ft tall, sun-loving, mildew-resistant. Plant 3–5.
    • Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis): Deep red, 2–4 ft, prefers moist soil, partial shade OK. Plant 3–5.
    • Blazing Star (Liatris spicata): Purple spikes, 2–3 ft, attracts insects (hummingbird food). Plant 5–7.
  • Late Summer/Fall (August–September):
    • Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea): Red, 1–2 ft, sun, blooms until frost if deadheaded. Annual but self-seeds. Plant 5–7.
    • New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae): Purple, 2–3 ft, supports late-season insects. Plant 3–5.

Non-Native Option (for variety):

  • Fuchsia (hanging basket): Colorful, pendulous, 1–2 ft, shade-tolerant, annual in Zone 6a. Use 1–2 baskets.

Why These?:

  • Natives support local ecology and are low-maintenance. These species are deer-resistant (common in Webster) and thrive in local clay-loam soils with minimal amendments.
  • Staggered blooms cover the hummingbird season (May–September).
  • Compact sizes fit a small garden while providing bold color clusters.

Garden Layout

Our example layout maximizes nectar visual appeal, and hummingbird comfort. Adjust based on your yard’s exact shape or shade.

  • Back Row (along fence or edge):
    • 3 Bee Balm (center, for height and red pop).
    • 2 Cardinal Flowers (flanking Bee Balm, for moist spots or partial shade).
  • Middle Row:
    • 5 Wild Columbine (early blooms, shade-tolerant, spread evenly).
    • 3 Blazing Star (mixed in, for insect attraction).
  • Front Row:
    • 5 Scarlet Sage (low-growing, bright red, long-blooming).
    • 3 New England Aster (for late-season nectar and insects).
    • Feeder: Hang 1 saucer-style feeder, 4–5 ft high near Bee Balm, in partial shade to slow nectar spoilage.
    • Perch: Add a small Redbud tree (Cercis canadensis, 6–10 ft at maturity) in a corner or just outside the 10×10 plot for perching/nesting. Alternatively, use a shepherd’s hook with a dead branch.
    • Water: Place a shallow birdbath (1–2 inches deep) with a dripper or mister in the center or a corner. Refresh water every 2 days.

Setup and Maintenance

  • Soil Prep: Test soil (kits at local nurseries like The Garden Factory in Rochester). Add compost to clay soils for drainage. Most plants tolerate Webster’s soil but prefer pH 6.0–7.0.
  • Planting: Plant in spring (mid-May) after the last frost. Space plants 12–18 inches apart (per nursery tags). Water deeply after planting.
  • Watering: Keep soil moist but not soggy, especially for Cardinal Flower. Use drip irrigation or hand-water 1–2 times weekly (more in July heat).
  • Mulching: Apply 2 inches of shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it 1 inch from stems.
  • Feeder Care: Use 1:4 sugar-water (1 cup sugar to 4 cups water, boiled, cooled). Clean feeder every 2–3 days with 1:10 vinegar-water to prevent mold. Refill before it empties to keep hummingbirds visiting.
  • Pruning: Deadhead Scarlet Sage and Bee Balm to extend blooms. Cut back perennials in late fall after frost.
  • Winter: Mulch perennials in November to protect roots. Store Fuchsia indoors or treat as an annual. Remove/clean feeder after hummingbirds leave (mid-September).

Local Tips for Webster

  • Migration Timing: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds arrive ~May 1–10 and depart ~September 10–20. Have feeders and Columbine ready by late April; keep Scarlet Sage and feeders up until late September for stragglers.
  • Nurseries: Visit our list of local plant sources. Many carry natives like Bee Balm and Columbine.
  • Pests: Deer are common; all listed plants are deer-resistant. Watch for slugs on Cardinal Flower (use diatomaceous earth). Avoid pesticides to protect hummingbirds and their insect prey.
  • Community: Join Rochester’s Native Plant Society or Cornell Cooperative Extension (Monroe County) for free advice. They offer workshops on pollinator gardens.

Sample Schedule

  • April: Prep soil, buy plants, set up feeder by May 1.
  • May: Plant, water regularly, monitor for hummingbirds.
  • June–August: Deadhead, clean feeder, refresh birdbath.
  • September: Keep feeder up until birds leave, mulch for winter.

Budget Estimate (DIY, Small Garden)

  • Plants: ~$100–150 (25 plants at $4–$6 each from local nurseries).
  • Feeder: $20–30 (e.g., Aspects HummZinger).
  • Birdbath: $30–50 (basic with dripper).
  • Mulch/Compost: $20–30.
  • Total: ~$200–260, one-time cost (perennials last years).

Why This Works

  • Compact: Fits a 10×10 ft space, with dense planting for bold color.
  • Low-Maintenance: Natives thrive in Zone 6a with minimal care.
  • Hummingbird Magnet: Red tubular flowers, a feeder, and a mister hit all their needs—nectar, protein (via insects), water, and perches.
  • Eco-Friendly: Supports pollinators and local wildlife.

Planting Dahlias

by Webster Arboretum

With their stunning and long lasting blooms, Dahlias are a stunning addition to any garden. The middle of May is prime planting time for dahlias, as the last frost has passed (typically early May in Webster), and soil temperatures are above 60°F—perfect for these tender perennials.

1. Planting

  • Timing: Plant now (mid-May) to ensure blooms by late summer (July–September). Dahlias need warm soil (60°F+), and nighttime temps should stay above 50°F, which they are in Webster this time of year.
  • Starting: Use tubers (not seeds) for faster results. Look for firm tubers with visible “eyes” (growth points).
  • Soil: Dahlias need well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.5–7.0). Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from mixing in compost and sand or perlite. Dig a hole 6–8 inches deep, lay the tuber horizontally with the eye facing up, and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the sprout grows, gradually fill the hole.
  • Spacing: Space tubers 1–2 ft apart (1 ft for dwarfs, 2 ft for larger varieties). Plant 1–2 tubers to avoid overcrowding.

2. Watering and Feeding

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—about 1 inch per week. Water at the base to avoid wetting leaves, reducing powdery mildew risk (common in Webster’s humid summers). Once established, dahlias are somewhat drought-tolerant but don’t let them dry out completely.
  • Mulching: Add 2 inches of straw or shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and keep soil cool. Keep mulch away from stems to prevent rot.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) to promote blooms over foliage.
  • Monthly: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea until blooming starts (July). Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

3. Support and Pruning

  • Staking: Most dahlias (except dwarfs) need support, as stems can snap in summer storms. Install a 4–6 ft stake or cage at planting time. Tie stems loosely with garden twine as they grow.
  • Pinching: When plants reach 12–18 inches tall (around June), pinch the top growth above the fourth set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more blooms.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent flowers weekly to promote continuous blooming through September. Cut back to the nearest set of leaves.

4. Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs: Slugs love tender dahlia shoots. Use your grapefruit traps near dahlias, and add a ring of diatomaceous earth around the base. Hand-pick at dusk if needed.
  • Other Pests: Watch for aphids (spray with insecticidal soap) and spider mites (increase humidity, use neem oil). Japanese beetles may appear in July—hand-pick or use row covers.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions. Ensure good air circulation (don’t overcrowd), and apply a sulfur-based fungicide if needed. Avoid overhead watering.

5. Overwintering in Webster

  • Frost Timing: Dahlias are tender and won’t survive Webster’s winter (lows to -10°F). First frost hits ~October 5–15.
  • Digging Tubers: After frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 4 inches, dig up tubers, and brush off soil (don’t wash). Dry them for 1–2 days in a garage or shed.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a box with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust at 40–50°F (e.g., a cool basement). Check monthly for rot; mist lightly if they shrivel. Replant next May.

6. Local Tips

  • Weather: May is rainy (3–4 inches average). Ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot. July–August heat (80–85°F) will boost growth if you keep soil moist.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County (585-461-1000) can provide soil testing to optimize your dahlia bed.

Quick Timeline

  • May 14: Plant tubers, stake, water well.
  • June: Pinch tops, fertilize, monitor slugs.
  • July–September: Deadhead, water, enjoy blooms.
  • October: Dig and store tubers after frost.

Those Pesky Squirrels

by Webster Arboretum

Nothing raises a bird watchers blood pressure like seeing a squirrel dangle upside down on the side of a bird feeder while gorging itself on expensive seed.

If the squirrels aren’t pigging out on bird seed they’re digging holes in your garden in search of tasty bulbs and uprooting plants along the way.

The more your yard resembles a smorgasbord, the larger the number of unwanted visitors you will have.

Luckily there are a few things you can do to make your property less of a Happy Meal.

Plants that Squirrels dislike.

Alliums
Daffodils
Fritillaries
Marigolds
Mint
Nasturtiums

You won’t see a lot of squirrels chomping on daffodil bulbs. Daffodil bulbs contain a toxic alkaloid called lycorine that is harmful to squirrels, other rodents, and humans.

Apparently the bulbs of Fritillaries have an unpleasant flavor, so squirrels tend to leave them alone.

Alliums, Marigolds, Narturtiums, and Mint all have scents that squirrels find to be repugnant. Consider planting them in proximity to vulnerable plants.

Over the years, we’ve purchased a wide variety of bird feeders. Some more squirrel proof than others. Durability has been an issue. Our existing tube feeders have become jammed up and no longer return to the open position after a squirrel departs. They have also become susceptible to moisture. Squirrels have also chewed threw springs and end caps of various feeders.

We’ve just purchased a new feeder that purports to be squirrel proof. We’ll let you know how it goes.

Holiday Bulbs to brighten up your day!

by Webster Arboretum


Paperwhites, Amaryllis, and Hyacinth are all flower bulbs that can bloom indoors for the holiday season. Bring color and fragrance into your home to fight off the winter doldrums and brighten your day

First Step

When selecting a bulb, always pick larger bulbs as they have more stored energy and will produce bigger, healthier plants. Not only do smaller bulbs produce smaller flowers, but you may need to buy more to create the same effect as larger bulbs. When choosing your bulbs, feel them to make sure they are hard and sturdy. Bulbs that feel soft or have signs of mold on them have already started to decay and will not produce flowers. The quality of the bulb will determine the success of your blooms.

Amaryllis

The Amaryllis bulb takes about 6-8 weeks to flower, depending on growing conditions, so for the holiday season they should be planted in early November.  Keep in mind the type of bulb, the temperature, light level, and watering will all impact how long it takes for the bulb to reach full bloom.

Amaryllis enjoy being pot bound in a narrow container but need drainage holes to grow. With consistent watering, a sunny window, and temperature around 70 degrees, your Amaryllis should be on its way to blooming. Be sure to rotate your pot 180 degrees frequently to keep the plant from stretching toward the sun.

The method for planting Amaryllis bulbs:

  1. Soak the base of the bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours before planting. This rehydrates the roots and helps to speed up growth. 
  2. Choose a pot or container (with drainage holes) that’s about 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the Amaryllis bulb.
  3. Use a well-draining potting mix, preferably with a mix of organic matter and perlite. Amaryllis bulbs need good drainage, so avoid heavy soils. 
  4. Place the Amaryllis bulb in the soil about two-thirds deep. Leave the top one-third of the bulb above the soil line.
  5. Water your bulb thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. Place the pot in a sunny location where it receives indirect sunlight. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Reduce watering after the initial growth phase. 
  6. As the Amaryllis develops it is beneficial to feed it with a balanced fertilizer every 2-4 weeks and use support to keep it upright – as it is likely to be top-heavy once its large flowers bloom. 

Don’t discard amaryllis after it blooms, as they can be encouraged with the right care to flower again the following year.  Note that waxed bulbs are intended for single use. They have all they need to bloom, but after that, they are meant to be discarded. The idea is that sealing the bulb with wax prevents moisture loss and the bulb will be able to bloom once without any additional water or soil. A waxed amaryllis bulb can be planted after it blooms if you are able to remove the wax first, but it’s highly likely that it won’t be a viable plant.

Paperwhite narcissi

Paperwhite is another holiday flower you’ll find growing in pots and vases throughout the holidays. It has tall stems and star-shaped flowers and is easy to grow. Each bulb produces two to three stems of brilliant white flowers that create a beautiful holiday arrangement. Bulbs sold for indoor growing don’t require a chilling period and will flower within a matter of weeks, making them ideal last-minute gifts.

  1. Cover the bulbs with potting soil and leave one-third of the bulb bare.
  2. Water thoroughly, but don’t give your bulbs wet feet.
  3. When you notice green growth, expose your bulbs to bright indirect light with a temperature around 65 degrees. The blooms generally last for about two weeks. 

Just like Hyacinths, potting soil isn’t required. You can plant the bulbs in a clear vase filled with glass beads or gravel. Place the bulbs so that one third to a half is still visible. Don’t be afraid to pack them in to guarantee a display with real impact. Fill the bowl with water so that the base of the bulb just touches the water. Once the roots appear drop the water level, so it isn’t touching the bulbs.

Hyacinths

A fragrant centerpiece for Christmas tables, the Hyacinth features clusters of flowers that come in a variety of colors.

  1. When growing them in soil, cover the bulb completely except for the tip and leave them in a relatively dark, cool area above 45 degrees Fahrenheit until they develop roots.
  2. When the shoots are roughly 1 inch, gradually expose them to brighter, warmer conditions.
  3. Water your plant deeply, but never let the soil get soggy. 

Hyacinths can grow in any planting medium, such as standard potting soil, wet gravel or even water. Hyacinth jars are an hourglass shape. Its pinched-in waste supports the bulb just above the water sitting in the bottom half of the jar.

  1. Pour in water up to the jar’s waist and position the bulb so its base sits a fraction above the water below. In this way the bulb has access to moisture without risk of rotting.
  2. Place the jar into a cool, dark place—a refrigerator, cellar or unheated garage—and keep it there until roots appear and establish. This usually takes about three weeks, at which time the jar can be moved into a bright, airy room to encourage the flowers to develop.

Alternatively arrange bulbs in shallow bowls or dishes filled with gravel, pebbles or anything that holds the bulbs upright. Plant them close together so that they sit side by side without touching. Fill the bowl with water to the base of the bulbs then finish off with a decorative dressing of your choosing.

How to Get Your Christmas Cactus to Bloom

Whether you want to encourage your Christmas Cactus to bloom again, or it is slow to bloom, there are ways to trick your cactus into producing blooms at just the right time.

  1. These cacti will be prone to put out blooms if they experience about a week of long nights and shorter days. If your area is experiencing this naturally, just putting your cactus in a windowsill and exposing it to the natural cycle of days will help encourage blooms, since it will be subject to 12 or more hours of darkness per day. Don’t expose your plant to any artificial light at night.
  2. They like cooler temperatures, so keep Christmas cacti away from heaters and radiators and leave in a cool windowsill where temperatures are between 55 and 60 degrees.
  3. Water only when the soil is dry to the touch, and then only water the top inch of your soil. This will provide your cactus with the push into dormancy, and it will start to flower.
  4. Stop fertilization about a month before you wish to have blooms. This encourages the plant to focus its energy on producing those blooms that you want for your holiday décor.

Hope these tips will help you create an atmosphere of beauty throughout your home this holiday season.

Fall Gardening Tidbits

by Webster Arboretum

Unfortunately, our growing season is winding down and now is the time to start readying your lawn, garden and landscape for the coming winter season, as well as get a head start on spring. Do you want to relocate a tree or shrub? Do your perennials need to be divided? Do you want to add some spring blooming bulbs? September is the time to get busy. Here are some tips to get you started…

Trees and Shrubs

For most deciduous shrubs and trees– late August to mid-September is a good time for transplanting! Fall transplants can benefit from the cooler, moister weather ahead. Thanks to autumn rains, the plant’s roots will get a chance to grow and develop and allow them to stock up on needed nutrients before the ground freezes.

The best time to transplant raspberries and blueberry bushes is when they’re dormant. Any time between fall and spring when they’re not fruiting or growing new leaves. October through December are ideal as long as the ground is not frozen.

You can transplant evergreen trees through early September. This is actually the preferred time for transplanting evergreens since it gives those trees the entire winter season to reestablish root systems. This will usually mean the tree will be less stressed and can recover faster in spring. Once you reach late September, your evergreens may not have adequate time to reestablish adequate root systems.
Be sure to water every 3 to 4 days for the first few weeks after transplanting, and at least once a week until the ground is frozen.

Perennials/Bulbs

How do you know if your perennials should be dividing? Did they produce smaller blooms than past seasons, develop a ‘bald spot’ at the center or require staking to prevent their stems from falling over? Then they need to be divided. You may also decide to divide perennials to redistribute to other garden locations. Plan your spring garden now and add your perennial divisions where desired.

As a general rule, spring and summer blooming perennials should be divided into late summer/early fall and fall blooming perennials in the spring. After dividing clumps transplant immediately to keep them from drying out.

Peonies. Dividing peonies in September allows them to become established before winter. In late fall, mulch newly planted peonies with several inches of straw or pine needles, removing the protection in the spring when new growth resumes.

Daylilies can be divided in September. Dig up the clump, shake to remove soil and carefully pull the clump apart. You may need to cut them apart with a sharp knife. Each division should have a good root system and at least three leaves. Replant the divided clumps immediately, so the crowns are one inch below the soil surface.

Bearded Iris should be divided typically (every 3-5 years) when clumps become too large or when flowering decreases. Carefully dig up clumps, cut leaves back to one-third of their height, wash off and cut rhizomes so each division has a fan of leaves and a healthy rhizome with several good-sized roots. Discard old rhizomes from the center of the clump. Dig a shallow hole just slightly deeper than the root portion of the iris, and then create a slight mound of soil in the center of the hole. Position the rhizome section over the mound so the roots spread out facing downward and the top of the rhizome is just above the soil line. A common mistake is to plant iris too deep. Pack new soil around the iris, and then water thoroughly.

Spring Blooming Bulbs. Late September or October is the time to plant spring-blooming bulbs such as daffodils, crocuses, snowdrops, tulips, hyacinths, irises and alliums.

To stimulate root growth, scratch a small handful of granular fertilizer into the soil at the bottom of the hole, and flatten the area with your hand so bulbs have a stable surface on which to rest. Place bulbs in the prepared hole about an inch apart, with tip up and root end down. Cover with soil, and water once to settle them.

For a dramatic show of spring-flowering bulbs, plant smaller perennial species near larger bulbs. That way, you’ll get twice the vibrancy in the same space.

Vegetable Crops

It’s important to clear away diseased plants and any dead or rotting plant material. Pest insects, like squash bugs, and diseases will overwinter, bridging the gap between this year’s crops and the next.

Chop beans and peas off at ground level, leaving their nitrogen-fixing roots in the soil to feed next year’s crops.

Fall is a great time to work to improve the quality of your soil. If you have harvested garden plants such as beans, sweet corn, or carrots and are left with an open space, consider planting a cover crop. Cover crops help to prevent erosion, add/retain nutrients by providing organic matter, and dispense many additional benefits to your soil. Apply compost in a one-fourth-inch layer and spread thinly to improve the soil structure.

Pull small weeds and cut off large ones before they go to seed and remove them from the garden. Removing weeds before their seeds mature will decrease the number of weeds that will grow in your garden next year! Winter annual weeds like henbit, common chickweed, and shepherd’s purse will germinate in the fall and resume growth in spring. Managing them now prevents weed problems in the spring!

Lawns

Set your mower blades fairly high for the season’s final cut leaving the grass to grow a little longer over the winter. This higher cut will protect the soil and make your turf healthier. Soil-enriching caterpillars and other bugs bury right down into the thatch; a close-cropped lawn doesn’t do them any favors. Take the grass catcher off your mower and mow over the leaves on your lawn. You want to reduce your leaf litter to dime-size pieces. It might take more than one pass with the mower to get the shreds to the desired size, depending on the leaf type and volume. You will know you’re done mowing leaves when about half an inch of grass can be seen through the mulched leaf layer. Once the leaf bits settle in, microbes and worms get to work recycling them. Decomposing leaves add nutrients to the soil, which in turn can nourish your grass, add beneficials and reduce weeds in the spring.

Late-August through mid-September is a good time to renovate lawns, repair bare spots, and plant new lawns. If you are renovating or reseeding your lawn, it’s important to pick the right kind of grass for your situation. Each of the four most popular cool-season lawn grasses have strengths and weaknesses and it is important to consider maintenance issues and sun/shade components. So be sure to do your research.

Hopefully, you will find this information helpful.

Happy September from The Webster Arboretum!