Why not to buy Ladybugs

by Webster Arboretum
Buy Ladybugs

While in theory a grand idea, in practice, purchasing live ladybugs online or from a local garden stores is largely a waste of your money.

After an autumn of hearty eating, ladybugs go off to slumber with a full belly often many miles from the flower filled gardens they called home. They typically hibernate in large communal groups of many millions of ladybugs.

In most cases, the ladybugs available for purchase were captured during this hibernation period. Large numbers of hibernating ladybugs are vacuumed up and then refrigerated until distributed for sale.

They awake in unfamiliar surroundings, not hungry because of their winter reserves, and fly off in search of new flower filled gardens to call home.

Within 48 hours, less than 5% of the ladybugs released into your garden are still there.

It’s a noble idea. Nobody hates pesticides more than us.

Creating an environment where ladybugs populate your garden naturally is a better approach.

As well as eating aphids and spider mites, ladybugs also feed on plant nectar and pollen. Growing plants in the apiaceae family like dill, coriander, fennel, and the daisy family like sunflowers and yarrow will invite ladybugs to your yard. Visit our “Attracting Ladybugs” page to learn more.

Nicole Burke of gardenary.com sharing why buying ladybugs doesn’t work.

Further reading:

Tom Kalb of North Dakota State University’s Extension has a great article on what happens when you release ladybugs onto your property.

Inaturalist’s awesome database of Ladybug species across the United States.

Can I compost this?

by Webster Arboretum

Can I compost this? Citrus? Shrimp shells? Corks? Stink bugs? Whether or not to put these unusual items on your compost heap.

Can I Compost Wine Corks?

Can I compost wine corks?

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Yes!
You can compost wine corks—but only if they’re natural cork (from the bark of cork oak trees). These are 100% biodegradable, carbon-rich "browns" that add great long-term structure and nutrients to your pile as they slowly break down.

Natural vs. Synthetic

Natural corks — Look and feel like real wood/bark: lightweight, porous, crumbly when cut, with a natural grain. Slice one open—if it’s uniform light tan/brown throughout and smells woody, it’s natural and compostable.
Synthetic corks — Made of plastic, foam, or silicone (common in cheaper wines): smooth, uniform color (often bright white/yellow), feel rubbery/plasticky, and don’t crumble. Do not compost these—they won’t break down and could release microplastics. Trash them or upcycle (crafts, bulletin boards, etc.).

Composting Best Practices

Prep them — Cork is tough and naturally water-resistant (that’s why it seals bottles!), so whole corks can take months to years to fully decompose in a backyard pile.

To speed things up:
Chop, slice, or grind them.
Bury pieces in the center of the pile and mix with other browns (leaves, shredded paper) and greens (kitchen scraps) for balance. This prevents them from just sitting there.

Corks

I don’t compost corks because they’re useful for other things like backdrops for shelves.

Cheers! 🍷

Can I Compost teabags?

Can I compost teabags?

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Possibly not.

As of March 2026, while a number of prominent tea manufactures have moved away from non-compostable tea-bags, some have moved to polylactic-acic (PLA) bioplastics, which can be composted but require the high heat of an industrial facility and won’t break down in most home composters piles.

Polylactic acid (PLA) is a biodegradable, bio-based thermoplastic derived from materials like corn starch, sugarcane, or tapioca.

Beyond the compostability of the teabags there is also the concern that bioplastic teabags potentially release nanoplastic particles into your cup while the tea is steeping and into the ground when breaking down like traditional polypropylene plastics do.

Compostable by an industrial facility
These brands have reported that they use PLA materials in their teabags and are compostable by professional services.
Barry’s Irish Tea
Bigelow Tea
Lyons Tea
Taylors of Harrogate Tea
Taylors Yorkshire Tea

Home Compostable
These brands have reported their teabags are 100% plastic free and compostable.
Bromley Tea
Prince of Peace Tea
Pukka Tea
Republic of Tea
Stash Tea
Traditional Medicinals Tea
Twinings Tea
Yogi Tea

Not Compostable
Most surprisingly, the company most American’s would associate with all natural teas, Celestial Seasonings uses plastic in their teabags (food-grade polypropylene plastic fibers derived from fossil fuels).
Celestial Seasonings Tea
Lipton Tea
Tetley Tea

Can I Compost Stink Bugs?

Can I compost stink bugs?

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Yes!
Stink bugs are perfectly fine to add to a compost heap in small to moderate quantities. They’re 100% natural organic material—mostly chitin exoskeleton and proteins—so they break down just like any other dead insect, contributing nitrogen and becoming part of the nutrient cycle.

  • Insects are a normal part of healthy compost: Decomposers (bacteria, fungi, worms, etc.) routinely process dead bugs in soil and piles. They add minor nutrients (like nitrogen) and don’t introduce pathogens harmful to compost or plants when dead.
  • Bury them in the pile: Toss dead ones into the center or mix them under a layer of browns (leaves, shredded paper, etc.) to speed breakdown and prevent any temporary odor or attraction of flies/scavengers.
  • Keep quantities small: A handful here and there is no problem. If you’re vacuuming up dozens during an invasion, add them gradually rather than dumping a big batch at once—too many at once could create a temporary “hot spot” or slight stink as they break down (though nothing like live ones spraying).
  • Method: If they died naturally, or you used soap/water or vacuumed them up, there are no residue issues. Avoid composting bugs killed with pesticides or chemical sprays, as those could harm beneficial compost organisms (e.g., worms or microbes).
Can I Compost Yankee Caps

Can I compost a Yankee cap?

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No!
Alas, as a Blue Jays fan, I’d love to compost Yankee caps but like most modern baseball caps, including the Official New Era Yankees caps, they are usually made from:

  • Polyester (often the primary fabric, especially in performance or modern versions—sometimes 100% polyester or high blends).
  • Cotton twill (in some relaxed or “Clean Up” styles from brands like ’47, often have 100% cotton or high cotton content still have synthetic components hidden in seams, linings, or the brim reinforcement).
  • Cotton-polyester blends (e.g., 40% cotton / 60% polyester in some models).
  • with other elements like: Plastic snaps/buttons (on adjustable backs), synthetic threading, embroidered logos (with plastic-like stabilizers or threads), foam/viscose in the bill (stiffener), and sometimes metal eyelets or tags.

Why It Won’t Compost Well:

  • Polyester and synthetics are basically plastic—they don’t biodegrade in a home compost pile (or even most industrial ones). They can persist for hundreds of years, potentially releasing microplastics into your finished compost/soil.
  • Non-natural additives (dyes, treatments, glues, or stiffeners) may not break down and could introduce unwanted chemicals.
  • Even if mostly cotton, the synthetic bits contaminate the pile—best practice is “when in doubt, leave it out” for clothing/textiles in home composting.

Pure 100% natural-fiber items (like undyed cotton rags with no blends/synthetics) can go in compost, but that’s rare for mass-produced hats.

Can I Compost Citrus Fruit?

Can I compost Citrus fruit?

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Yes!
You can indead compost citrus fruit (oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruits, etc.—including peels, whole fruit, or scraps) in a home compost heap. It’s a common myth that you shouldn’t, but that’s largely debunked by gardeners, composting experts, and extension services.

The old concerns were:

  • Too acidic — Citrus is acidic when fresh, but in a balanced compost pile, the pH neutralizes quickly as microbes break it down. It won’t make your finished compost overly acidic unless citrus is the overwhelming majority of what you’re adding (which is unlikely in a normal kitchen/yard setup).
  • Harmful to worms — The oils (like limonene in peels) can irritate composting worms (especially red wigglers in vermicompost bins) if added in huge amounts, making them avoid the area or slow down. But in a regular outdoor pile, earthworms can just move away temporarily if needed, and the pile still decomposes fine. Worms usually join later in the process anyway, after initial breakdown.
  • Slow to break down — Peels are tough and waxy, so they take longer than softer scraps (months instead of weeks), but they do eventually decompose fully.

Best practices:

  • Chop or shred peels into smaller pieces—this speeds things up a lot.
  • Mix well — Bury citrus scraps in the center of the pile under layers of “browns” (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) to balance the “green” nitrogen from the fruit and prevent any temporary smell or mold.
  • Moderate amounts — A few peels or a couple of fruits here and there? Totally fine. If you’re juicing a ton, add them gradually and turn the pile to aerate and heat it up.
  • Hot vs. cold composting — In a hot, active pile (turned regularly), citrus breaks down faster. In a slower cold pile (common in colder NY winters), it still works but takes longer—freeze-thaw cycles actually help by breaking down cell walls over time.
  • Pest deterrent bonus — The strong citrus smell can actually help repel some rodents or flies from raiding the pile.

If you’re using a worm bin (vermicomposting) indoors, though, go easy on citrus—small amounts only, or skip it to keep the worms happy.

Can I Compost Shrimp Shells?

Can I compost Shrimp Shells?

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Yes!
Not sure I would add them to my compost heap, but yes, you can compost shrimp shells (including heads, tails, and bodies) in a backyard compost heap—they’re a great organic addition that breaks down over time and provides valuable nutrients like nitrogen, calcium, and chitin (which can benefit soil health and even help suppress some plant pests/pathogens as it decomposes).

Shrimp shells are considered a "green" material (nitrogen-rich), similar to kitchen scraps or grass clippings, and they fit well into balanced compost piles. They add nitrogen for microbial activity and calcium/chitin that enriches finished compost (chitin promotes beneficial fungi and can improve soil structure).

Potential Downsides
The main concerns are temporary odor (fishy smell during initial breakdown) and attracting pests (flies, rodents, raccoons, or neighborhood animals).

To minimize problems
Bury them deep — Dig a hole or trench in the center of your pile, add the shells, mix with existing material, and cover with a thick layer of "browns" (leaves, shredded paper, cardboard, straw) to absorb moisture/odors and block access.
Crush or chop them — Break shells into smaller pieces (use a hammer, rolling pin in a bag, or food processor/blender for dried ones) to speed decomposition (whole shells can take months to years).
Pre-treat if possible — Rinse off any sauces/butter first. Some folks boil shells briefly (20–30 minutes) to reduce smell and kill bacteria, then dry them (sun-dry or oven) until crisp before adding—this makes them less attractive to pests and easier to crush.
Add in moderation — A handful or two at a time is ideal; avoid dumping large quantities all at once, as that can create a smelly, anaerobic spot.
Balance the pile — Mix with plenty of carbon-rich browns and turn/aerate regularly to keep it hot and active (heat helps break down faster and reduces odors).
Pest-proof your setup — If rodents are an issue, use a enclosed bin/tumbler with a secure lid, or bury shells extra deep (12+ inches). Avoid leaving exposed scraps on top.

Walnuts

Can I compost Walnuts?

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Well…technically Yes,
A number of state extensions and other experts say that walnuts, even black walnut tree materials can be composted as long as the heap reaches a high internal temperature and the material is in the heap for at least six months.

Walnut trees (especially Black Walnut trees) contain a chemical called juglone that can adversely affect a number of garden plants including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, rhubarb, columbine and others.

Butternut, pecan, hickory, and English walnut trees also contain the compound but in smaller amounts.

Our recommendation would be to use caution. There are plenty of other materials to compost, so why fiddle with walnuts?

Can you compost a curling stone?

Can I compost a Curling stone?

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ah…No!
Did you really have to click to reveal this? It’s made of flippin’ granite!

No, you cannot compost a curling stone because it is made of granite, typically sourced from Ailsa Craig in Scotland., not organic matter. Compost is for material that breaks down, and while the rock won’t harm your compost pile, it will not decompose, even over several thousand years. As a rock, it is inorganic material and will remain in your compost pile unchanged.

Marmite

Can I compost Marmite?

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Yes,
You can compost Marmite — in small amounts, it should break down just fine in a home compost pile.

Marmite is basically a concentrated yeast extract (from brewer’s yeast), mixed with salt, some vegetable extracts, and spices. Yeast and its byproducts are organic and fully biodegradable:

Plain yeast (or spent brewer’s yeast) is routinely added to compost piles or used as a compost activator/fertilizer by homebrewers and gardeners — it provides nitrogen and feeds the microbes that do the decomposing work. The main "issue" is the high salt content. Too much salt at once can temporarily harm soil microbes or make the compost a bit saline if you add large quantities.

Suggested Use:

  • Scrape small leftover amounts (e.g., residue from a jar, a spoonful or two into your compost — it will disappear quickly.
  • Mix it in well with other materials (greens like veggie scraps + browns like leaves/cardboard) to dilute the salt.
  • Avoid dumping a whole jar or large volumes at once — that much salt could slow things down or attract unwanted attention from animals (though Marmite’s strong smell might actually deter some pests rather than attract them).
  • If your compost is a bokashi system or worm bin (vermicomposting), go very light or skip it — worms can be sensitive to high salt.

People even use tiny bits of yeast extract spreads like Marmite or Vegemite diluted in water as a quick microbial boost for compost teas or as a plant fertilizer in some gardening circles.

A bit of Marmite in the compost? Totally fine and even mildly beneficial.
A whole jar? Would be a waste of lovely marmite! It would be better to avoid or dilute heavily first.

Shamrock Plants

by Webster Arboretum
Shamrock plants

It doesn’t have to be St. Patrick’s Day to enjoy the charm of the shamrock plant.

Shamrock plants, commonly sold as “shamrocks” (especially around St. Patrick’s Day), are not true shamrocks or clovers. They belong to the Oxalis genus (of the wood sorrel family, Oxalidaceae), and are often referred to as false shamrocks, purple shamrocks, or simply oxalis.

Legend holds that St. Patrick used the three-leafed clover to explain the Holy Trinity—Father, Son, and Holy Spirit—to the Irish people in the 4th century. The word “shamrock” derives from the Irish words seamair óg or young clover.

Clovers ( or trefoils), are plants of the genus Trifolium (from Latin tres ‘three’ and folium ‘leaf’).

There is some dispute between historians as to which variety of clover is the true shamrock.

Whether the true shamrock is Trifolium dubium (lesser/yellow clover, seamair bhuí), Trifolium repens (white clover, seamair bhán) or Trifolium pratense (red clover, seamair dhearg), we’ll leave it to the Irish historians to battle it out.

All three varieties of clover would make really lousy houseplants…hence the popularity of oxalis!

Oxalis come in numerous forms and from multiple parts of the world, but the ones promoted around St. Patrick’s Day have clover-like (trifoliate) leaves. While there are oxalis varieties native to Ireland, many of the varieties sold in home improvement stores and grocery stores around St. Patrick’s Day originate from South America or Africa.

Shamrock plants: Oxalis triangularis
Shamrock plants: Oxalis regnellii
Shamrock plants: Oxalis tetraphylla

St. Patrick’s Day Shamrock plant varieties:

  • Oxalis triangularis (purple shamrock or false shamrock) — with deep purple to burgundy leaves, often with a darker center triangle pattern.
  • Oxalis regnellii (green shamrock) — Native of South America with bright green leaves.
  • Oxalis tetraphylla (four-leaf sorrel or iron cross) — green with a burgundy colored center

Other popular oxalis varieties:

  • Oxalis adenophylla (silver shamrock) — Native to Argentina and Chile. Has light pink flowers with heavily divided leaflets. Cold hardy to zone 4.
  • Oxalis vulcanicola (molten lava, copper glow) — Native of Mexico. Has brightly coloured leaves and flowers.
  • Oxalis oregana (redwood sorrel) — clove like leaves with pink veined white flowers.
  • Oxalis griffithii — Native of Asia. Cold hardy to zone 4. Spreads via rhizomes, not bulbs.
  • Oxalis acetosella — Native to Europe. Green with white flowers. Spreads via rhizomes, not bulbs.

General characteristics:

  • Leaves are trifoliate (three heart-shaped leaflets) that fold up at night or in low light (a movement called nyctinasty).
  • They produce delicate, small flowers — usually white, pink, or pale purple — that bloom for long periods.
  • They grow in clumps of small bulbs known as corms,
  • They’re perennials and are usually grown indoors as houseplants, but can be grown outdoors in warmer climates (USDA zones 8a–11, in light shade).

Many people love them for their vibrant color (especially the purple varieties, which add contrast to green-heavy plant collections) and the way leaves “respond” to light and time of day. They are also easy to grow low-maintenance plants.

Basic care tips (as houseplants):

  • Light — Bright, indirect light is ideal; some gentle morning sun works, but avoid harsh afternoon direct sun to prevent scorching.
  • Water — Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy — let the top dry slightly between waterings. They don’t like their feet too wet as they will begin to rot.
  • Temperature — Prefers cooler conditions (around 60–75°F / 15–24°C); hot temperatures can trigger dormancy.
  • Soil — Well-draining potting mix (with perlite or sand for aeration).
  • Fertilizer — Light feeding with balanced houseplant fertilizer during active growth (spring/fall); skip in dormancy.
  • Dormancy — They typically go dormant for a brief period during the summer. Their leaves will die back and they may even look quite dead. Don’t despair and throw them away! Reduce watering, and possibly move them to a cooler spot out of the sun. Once they’ve rested for a month or so, they’ll surprise you and pop right back.
  • Toxicity — They’re toxic if ingested in large quantities (they contain oxalic acid, like rhubarb leaves), so it’s best to keep them out of reach of pets and young children.

They’re easy to propagate by dividing the bulbs and can live for years with proper rest periods.

Overall, shamrock Oxalis plants are charming, eye-catching additions to indoor spaces — especially the purple ones that look almost like butterflies! If you’re thinking of getting one, they’re widely available as potted plants or bulbs.

Oxalis plants (like the popular shamrock or purple shamrock, Oxalis triangularis, and green shamrock, Oxalis regnellii) are among the easier houseplants to propagate. They primarily grow from small bulb-like structures called corms or tubers, which multiply naturally over time. This makes dividing them pretty straight forward.

Division of Bulbs/Corms

When to do it — Wait until the plant goes dormant (foliage fully dies back). This is usually the easiest time, as the bulbs are resting and multiply readily.

  1. Gently remove the entire plant from its pot.
  2. Shake off excess soil to expose the small, clustered bulbs (they look like tiny onions or garlic cloves, often brown and papery).
  3. Separate the bulbs by hand — they usually pull apart easily. If clustered tightly, use clean fingers or a small tool to tease them apart without damaging them.
  4. Discard any mushy, rotten, or shriveled bulbs.
  5. Plant the separated bulbs in fresh, well-draining potting mix (add perlite for extra drainage). Bury them about 1–2 inches deep, pointy end up if visible.
  6. Water lightly and place in bright, indirect light. New growth (leaves) should emerge in a few weeks to a couple of months.

Their bulbs multiply quickly (a single plant can produce many offsets in a season), so you can get several new plants from one mature clump.

British Gardeners

by Angie
Monty Don - British Garden Star

Why turn to British Gardeners?

There is no “G” in HGTV. I know it looks like it’s there, but it’s really a silent G. Is it just me, or is HGTV run by complete idiots. Every time a home improvement program becomes popular on the network, it immediately disappears. Beyond that, I can’t remember the last time I actually saw a gardening program on the network. (In all honesty, I haven’t had cable in years, likely because there were no gardening programs and well, just how many episodes of House Hunters International can one person watch?)

Are you old enough to remember Victory Garden on PBS? James Underwood Crockett was the closest thing to an American celebrity gardener since Johnny Appleseed. After Crockett’s death, Roger Swain made a noble effort hosting the program, but PBS had long lost interest.

What about Martha Stewart you ask? While she does include gardening in her program, she doesn’t focus her energies on gardening alone. These days you’re more likely to find her baking brownies with Snoop Dogg than re-potting her gardenias.

Thankfully, thanks to streaming services like BritBox and gardening offerings on YouTube it’s easier to find gardening programs in the United States than ever before.

A Country of Gardeners

Since 1968 a considerable number of Britons tune in to BBC 2 most Friday nights for a program called Gardeners’ World. It’s long time host, Monty Don (pictured above) is a genuine celebrity in the UK, with over 1.3 million followers on Instagram instagram . The 2026 season is scheduled to start on the 13th of March. It’s a truly lovely program and by itself worth the cost of a BritBox subscription.

Gardeners’ World isn’t an anomaly. There have been many other successful gardening programs in the UK over the years. Including Gardeners’ Question Time which has aired on BBC radio since 1947. There are well over 800 episodes available on the BBC website. Beechgrove is a gardening program that has aired on BBC Scotland since 1978. It is also available on Britbox.

Alan Titchmarch British Gardener

Alan Titchmarsh (Instagram 173k) is another well known British gardener. He was the host of Gardener’s World from 1996–2002, prior to Monty Don tenure. He has since hosted the long running series, Love Your Garden, Ground Force, and most recently, Alan Titchmarsh’s Gardening Club (which as I write this, is available on Amazon Prime.)

The Proteges

Both Monty and Alan have had a fair number of assistant gardeners or “co-presenters” over the years and many of them have become quite well known themselves. The big question has become, when Monty Don does decide to move on from Gardeners’ World, which he has openly discussed, who will replace him?

Frances Tophill British Gardener

Frances Tophill (Instagram 160k) is an award winning horticulturist, author, and television presenter known for her contributions to Love Your Garden and Gardeners’ World. She has written a number of books including The Modern Gardener: A practical guide for creating a beautiful and creative garden and Rewild Your Garden: Create a Haven for Birds, Bees and Butterflies. ig

David Domoney British Gardener

David Domoney (Instagram 149k) is a horticulturist and presenter who appeared on Love Your Garden, and is currently the resident gardener on ITV1’s This Morning. web | ig

Adam Frost British Gardener

Adam Frost (Instagram 136k) is a garden designer and horticulturist known for his award winning gardens including seven gold medals at the Chelsea Flower Show and as a presenter on Gardeners’ World. He is the author of the book Real Gardens: Seven amazing Chelsea Gold Medal-winning designs. web | ig

Rachel de Thame

Rachel de Thame (Instagram 130k) is a gardener and Gardeners’ World presenter who also hosts the BBC coverage of the annual Chelsea Garden Show. She is the author of several gardening books including A Flower Garden for Pollinators ig

Nick Bailey

Nick Bailey (Instagram 77.4k) is a garden designer who has created and managed gardens on four continents. His work ranges from gardens, horticultural consultancy, public speaking, writing, and presenting on Gardeners’ World. He is the author of three books including 365 Days of Colour in your Garden. web | ig

Arit Anderson

Arit Anderson (Instagram 35.5k) is an award winning garden designer, and television presenter, best known for her work on Gardeners’ World and Garden Rescue. web | ig

Katie Edwards

Katie Edwards (nee Rushworth) (Instagram 30.5k) is a gardener, garden designer, and television presenter best known for her work on Love Your Garden. She is the author of Plants, Beds and Borders: Create and Maintain Your Perfect Garden. web | ig

Sue Kent British Gardener

Sue Kent (Instagram 28k) is an avid gardener and presenter for Gardeners’ World and the Garden Rescue programs. Her professional gardening career began when she sent in a video of her garden to Gardeners’ World. The garden was so impressive, she was soon added to the program as a presenter. web | ig

Danny Clarke British Gardener

Danny Clarke (Instagram 23.1k) known as the Black Gardener, is a garden designer and television presenter who hosted The Instant Gardener (2015 -2016), Filthy Garden SOS (2021) and Love Your Garden (2021–). Impressed by Danny’s garden at the Chelsea Flower Show, the David Austin company, named a rose after him. The rose is called Dannahue, Danny’s given first name. web | ig

Notable British Gardeners

James Wong British Garden Designer

James Wong (Instagram 601k) is an ethnobotanist, garden designer, television presenter, and a panelist on Gardeners’ Question Time. James is the author of multiple books including How to Eat Better. web | ig

Charlie McCormick British Gardener

Charlie McCormick (Instagram 186k) is a gardener and floral designer who grew up in New Zealand but lives in the UK. He has written for or been featured in numerous prominent publications. “My garden philosophy is simple: you should always plant what you like even if nobody else does.” His book A Year at the Parsonage: The Story of a House & Garden will be released in October of 2026. ig

Harry and David Rich

Harry and David Rich (Instagram 83.2k) are brothers from Wales who work together in their landscape design business and on television as presenters of programs like Garden Rescue. They are the authors of the book Love Your Plot. web | ig

Alice Vincent

Alice Vincent (Instagram 55.5k) is a non-fiction and horticulture writer, editor, and podcaster. After writing for the Telegraph for multiple years, she moved to the Guardian and became a features editor at Penguin Books. She also has columns in Gardens Illustrated and The New Statesman and hosts several popular podcasts. Vincent is the author of several gardening books including Why Women Grow: Stories of Soil, Sisterhood and Survival. web | ig

Sarah Price

Sarah Price (Instagram 55k) is an award winning landscape designer who has won multiple Gold Medals at the Chelsea Flower Show. Sarah is a contributing editor for Gardens Illustrated and also writes for House and Garden and The Telegraph. web | ig

Alys Fowler

Alys Fowler (Instagram 40.5k) is a horticulturist and journalist. Her work has been published in numerous newspapers and magazines, including The Guardian, Gardeners’ World Magazine, Gardens Illustrated, Country Living, and The Daily Mail. She is the author of multiple gardening books including The Edible Garden and Eat What You Grow. ig

British Gardeners on YouTube

Benedict Vanheems British YouTuber and Gardener

Benedict Vanheems (YouTube 1.07M) is a lifetime gardener and the face of the GrowVeg YouTube channel. He has contributed as a writer and editor for Garden Design Journal and the Kitchen Garden. web | yt

Huw Richards Welch Gardener

Huw Richards (YouTube 917k) is a Welch YouTuber, writer and horticulturist who has authored numerous books on vegetable gardening including The Vegetable Grower’s Handbook. yt

Charles Dowding Organic Gardener

Charles Dowding (YouTube 742k) is a lifelong farmer and Cambridge graduate who has been at the forefront of the organic and no dig movements. He is the author of numerous books including No Dig Organic Home & Garden: Grow, Cook, Use, and Store Your Harvest. web | yt | ig

Mr. Sheffield Britsh Houseplant enthusiast

Mr. Sheffield (YouTube 612k) is a house plant enthusiast living in occasionally gloomy Sheffield, England. Watch a few of his videos and you’ll know more about houseplants than you ever imagined. web | yt

Gerald Stratford Big Veg Man

Gerald Stratford (YouTube 62.2k) is a lifetime gardener who in his 70s “went viral” through the merit of his personality and his rather “big veg”. So viral that the luxury brand, Gucci has featured him in several of their adverts. He is the author of the book, not surprisingly titled, Big Veg. web | ig | yt

Monty Don’s New Book: British Gardens

Monty Don’s massive new 456 page book, filled with Derry Moore’s photos of spectacular British gardens will be released on May 5th.

From the northern tip of Scotland down to the southern Cornish coast, Monty visits numerous glorious gardens including Northumbria’s Alnwick Gardens, Beatrix Potter’s Lake District farmhouse and the rewilded walled garden on the Knepp Estate.

Can’t wait for Monty’s book to arrive!

Pre-Orders are available now.

Poinsettia Care

by Webster Arboretum
Poinsettia Care

Keep your poinsettias looking good through Christmas!

Our poinsettia care tips that will help keep your plants looking festive for months to come.

Selection

As many poinsettias are purchased at grocery stores and home improvement centers, they may not have been receiving the best of care since leaving the greenhouses where they were raised.

Poinsettia Bud

When selecting a poinsettia, try to find a plant with tight greenish flower buds. If the buds have turned yellow and have separated, the plant has likely been blooming for a while and may not be at its peak for Christmas.

The small bud clusters known as cyathia, are the actual flowers of a poinsettia, the brightly colored leaves are called bracts.

If the plant’s foil wrapping is in the way, pull it back and look at the lower leaves. If they are yellowing or appear close to dropping off, select a different plant.

Watering

The poinsettias I recently saw at a nearby Tops supermarket were literally floating in their decorative foil wrappings due to over watering.

Once you have your plant home, its best to either remove any foil wrappings or to poke holes in the foil covering the bottom of the pot to allow for drainage.

Poinsettias prefer consistent light watering. They don’t like sitting in water but they really don’t like being left to dry out.

Poke the top of the soil with your finger every few days. If it the soil feels dry to the touch, give the plant a light watering. If your poinsettia has been placed on a saucer, tip out any excess water that accumulates.

It can’t hurt to mist your plants every few days to provide a bit of humidity.

Light and Temperature

Poinsettias are native to Mexico so they prefer as many hours of sunlight a day as possible. While poinsettias can tolerate full sun, indirect light is preferred. They enjoy temperatures between 65 and 70°F but not warmer.

Avoid placing your poinsettia in drafty locations, near frequently opened doorways, or in contact with icy windows. Just to make things more difficult, heating vents, wood burning stoves, and other heat sources should also be avoided.

50°F is about the lowest temperature poinsettias can tolerate, so when bringing your plants home from the store be sure to cover them before bringing them out into the cold air.

Poinsettia Care into the new year

Even though the stockings, ornaments, and inflatable grinches will be packed away, your poinsettia can remain a bright accent in your home for months to come.

Fertilize your poinsettia about once a month. I use Sea Magic Seaweed fertilizer on all my houseplants.

By late February or early March, if your plant begins to drop leaves and is looking a little worse for wear, cut the plants flowering stems back to about 6 inches in length to promote new growth.

If all is going well, just prior to the start of summer, repot your poinsettia into a container 2″-3″ larger.

During the summer, place your poinsettia on a nice sunny porch or similar location, as your plant will benefit from the outdoor humidity.

With any luck you will have a healthy but green bracted poinsettia.

Photoperiodic Induction

In order for poinsettias to achieve that familiar bright red color, they need darkness, at least 12-14 hours of absolute, uninterrupted darkness every night. Even the briefest flash of light can interfere with the process.

September 10th is the optimal date to begin the photoperiodic induction process in order to have a bright red poinsettia by Christmas.

During the day, the plant will still require bright light for about 8-10 hours to stay healthy.

From scratch

Most commercial growers produce their hybrid poinsettias from stem cuttings, but it is possible to grow poinsettias from seed but they rarely resemble their parent. Seeds also require a period of cold-stratification for the seeds to germinate.

Enjoy your poinettias!

Merry Christmas from all of us here at Shortmeadows.

Seed Bombs

by Angie
Seed Bombs

How to make your own seed bombs

When seed bombs or seed balls began gaining popularity about a dozen years ago, their intent was considerably more radical than it is today. People would make simple earthen seed bombs and toss them where ever they saw a need for flowers, regardless of whose property they were on. The term “guerrilla gardening” was coined.

In reality, in weed ladened or heavily compressed soils wildflower seeds have little chance of germinating.

Here’s something more of a decorative approach, perfect for stocking stuffers or just a little fun.

Ingredients

Non-Toxic Air Dry Clay (5lbs) amazon
Air Dry Clay Matt Varnish (50ml) amazon
Natural Color Pressed Dried Flowers (80 pcs) amazon
Organic Potting Soil amazon
Heirloom Black Eyed Susan Seeds (500) amazon seed cos.

Tools

Parchment paper amazon
Small paint brush amazon

Air Dry Clay for Seed Bomb

Instructions

Grab a handful of air dry clay and roll it into a ball. This will give you a sense of the size of your seed ball. Ideally, it should be close to the size of a golf ball.

With the palm of your hand, smash the ball flat and then using your fingers nurse it into the shape of a shallow bowl. To avoid getting any oil residue from the clay on to your work surface, consider placing a sheet of parchment paper or similar between the table and clay.

Place a small amount of soil in the center of the clay bowl you’ve created. It take surprisingly little soil. Too much and it will easily overflow the clay bowl.

Make a small indentation in the center of the soil and then place seeds into the center of the indentation. The number of seeds required can vary depending on what type of seed you are using. I used about 6 to 8 Black Eyed Susan seeds per ball.

Carefully pinch the clay up over the soil. Once the soil is completely contained within the clay, the ball can be gently rolled between your hands to make it rounder. If a hole appears, add a touch more clay and smooth it into place.

Completed Seed Bomb

Decorating

Squirt a small amount of the matt finish into the lid of the matt finish container or use similar sized receptacle.

Using a paint brush, paint a thin layer of matt finish, over the area you intend to adhere a dried flower.

Still using the paint brush and making sure its only slightly damp, place the point of the paint brush on to a dried flower. The flower should stick to the paint brush and lift away from its sheet. The dried flowers I purchased came with tweezers, but I found the paint brush works better.

Position the flower on the portion of the ball you covered in matt finish. Carefully coat the flower with a generous layer of matt finish until all parts of the flower are flat against the ball and adhered.

Follow your whim. Stop at one flower or add more until you’re happy with the seed balls appearance.

Allow the ball to dry for two to three days. Voila!

Planting Garlic

by Webster Arboretum

Planting Garlic

With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.

For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!

Butterfly Conservation

by Webster Arboretum
Butterfly Conservation. No garden truly blooms until butterflies have danced upon it

Highway 13 Butterfly Conservation Trail

An exciting new Butterfly conservation project is taking shape in the state of Missouri. A nearly 300 mile corridor between the cities of Bethany and Branson is being developed along the path of Highway 13 to provide aid to local pollinators and provide a migratory route for traveling Monarch Butterflies.

Along the trail, carefully selected native wildflowers and grasses including milkweed, purple coneflowers, goldenrod, and bee balm are being planted. The hope is that by planting native species in strategic locations like rest stops, roadside plots, public parks, a continuous path of habitat supporting monarch butterflies, native bees, hummingbirds, and other essential pollinators can be established.

Other Butterfly Trails

Asheville Butterfly Trail
beecityasheville.org/avl-butterfly-trail
Rosalynn Carter Butterfly Trail
rosalynncarterbutterflytrail.org/

Parks for Pollinators

Parks for Pollinators is a advocacy campaign created by the National Recreation and Park Association (NRPA) that encourages education about the current plight of pollinators due to loss of habitat, pesticide use, and other factors. The NRPA hopes to inspire local action and park participation that advances native habitats and pollinator health. Locally, the Highland Park Conservancy is a member of the NRPA that works to further the principles of the organization.

Butterfly Conservation. Hojack Trail July 22
Hojack Trail, August 22

Meanwhile, here in Webster….

The images above were both taken on the Hojack trail. The photo of the Monarch butterfly was taken in the last week of July 2022. The photo of the mowed trail was taken at the same location just over a week later.

Two to three times each summer the Hojack trail is heavily cutback, removing the majority of pollinator plants that populate the edges of the trail. The mowing not only removes a source of food for butterflies and other pollinators, it destroys the young caterpillars growing in the plant-life along the trail. The milkweed, spicebush, and sassafras may comeback for a time, but the mowing process has consistently spread highly invasive swallow-wort further and further down the trail.

The mowing is not limited to the Hojack trail. The milkweed edging the ponds at Charles E. Sexton Memorial Park (North Ponds) are usually mowed down the week before the annual Waterfront festival in late July. Similar mowing is done at other parks within the Webster parks system. Sadly, even the Webster Arboretum Association consistently removes millweed plants from their gardens.

Consider planting a pollinator garden in your yard!

Our Campari Experiment

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Our Campari Experiment

As an experiment, we started Campari seedlings indoors in March, from tomatoes purchased at Wegmans.

If you’re not familiar with Campari tomatoes, they are a sweet, juicy, cocktail-sized tomato (about 1 1/2–2 inches in diameter), found in clear plastic containers at most supermarkets. Wegmans tomatoes are usually sourced from Canada and Mexico.

Campari tomatoes are the world’s first branded tomato. They were developed by Mastronardi Produce, a 4th generation, commercial greenhouse grower headquartered in Kingsville, Ontario, Canada. The tomatoes are sold under their Sunset Grown and Backyard Farms brands as well as multiple store brands.

The tomatoes are non-GMO hybrids grown in state of the art greenhouses. As such, it’s difficult to predict what growing the seeds in a backyard garden will produce.

Practicality aside, its always fun to experiment just to see what happens.

Summer Update

We have Campari tomatoes!

The yield isn’t huge and the tomatoes are slightly smaller than the ones purchased from Wegmans. The taste however is still great!

Mosquito Control

by Webster Arboretum
Mosquito Control

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about mosquitoes, biting flies, or ticks. Wouldn’t we all like a simple, straightforward method of mosquito control that eliminates them from our yards and lives?

Pyrethroids to the rescue!

You may have seen the promotions, either stuffed in your mailbox, on signs in neighbors yards, or possibly through a knock at your door.

No need to worry, it’s Mosquito Bob, or was it Ray, or Charlie to the rescue. A simple monthly visit and a cloud of pyrethroid spray and all your insect problems will be a distant memory.

Alas, experience teaches us that the miracle claims made by many advertisers take great liberties with the truth.

Anything for a buck

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about the companies that spray for mosquitos in residential neighborhoods.

Pest control companies know the dangers associated with their services. Yet they play upon our fears of potential mosquito and tick born illnesses, highlight the joys of hanging out in your backyard, and make little to no mention of the damage to the environment their “miracle sprays” cause.

Mosquito control services typically use chemicals like bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, deltamethrin, and permethrin which are all synthetic variations of pyrethrins, known as pyrethroids.

Pyrethroids are broad spectrum insecticides, meaning they do not discriminate between the insects we value and the insects we dislike.

Pyrethroids can persist in the environment for several months harming any insect that comes into contact with them. Monthly application of the chemicals only furthers the damage.

Bees, butterflies, caterpillars, dragonflies, earthworms, fireflies, ladybugs, spiders and thousands of other insect species die when they come in contact with pyrethroids.

The chemicals are also extremely toxic to aquatic organisms, especially fish and crustaceans. We might also mention that cats lack the ability to breakdown pyrethroids which can cause toxic levels of build-up in their systems.

Mosquito control companies will tell you the chemicals they use are safe. That they are derived from pretty little chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrins are indeed found in chrysanthemum flowers, however, pyrethroids merely mimic the characteristics of pyrethrins, they are synthetic creations designed in a laboratory to be far more toxic and longer-lasting than their natural counterparts.

When prodded, they will swear they carefully avoid spraying flowering plants that attract pollinators. However, bees and other pollinators are often found on clover plants down amongst the grass. Many butterfly species lay their eggs on a variety of plants and trees. Many insects land on a wide variety of plants for the purpose of rest and ironically, safety. Wind can also cause pesticide drift, coating far more than targeted areas of the garden. Additionally, rain causes chemical runoff into creeks, streams, and waterways impacting fish and crustaceans.

Mosquito control services are highly profitable as recurring visits and monthly charges are often required. Numerous companies have popped up in the past 10 years and many lawn care companies have added it to their repertoire. Large scale marketing campaigns have increased the popularity of the service, as most of their customers are seemingly oblivious to the damage the service is causing to the environment.

Many farms use pyrethroids extensively. The EPA recommends farms clear flowering weeds in close proximity to their fields to reduce pollinator deaths due to drift from sprays. A drive through the country will quickly show that some farms follow the EPA recommendation, while others do not.

Insect and bird populations have been declining drastically in recent years. The situation is complex, but pesticides play a considerable role. With fewer insects there is less food available to insect eating birds. Many of the insects birds do eat contain measurable levels of pesticides.

We ask you to please consider not using insecticides of any kind on your property.

Alternatives and Recommendations

Fans

Alfredo Salkeld of the Buddha Bee Apiary recommends purchasing several electric floor fans for those evenings outdoors. “Wind may interfere with the mosquito’s ability to fly, but a fan on medium to high can also help disperse and dilute the carbon dioxide your body expels. And carbon dioxide attracts mosquitos.”

Native Plants and water

Planting water loving native plants like Button bushes, Cardinal flowers, and Swamp Milkweed not only attract pollinators but reduces the amount of standing water on your property.

Maintenance
  • Clean your gutters and other areas where water collects.
  • Use water circulating pumps in small ponds and water features.
  • Keep your lawn mowed to discourage ticks from moving into your yard.
BTI

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis is a bacterium that naturally occurs in soil and is only toxic to mosquito and black fly larvae. It can be purchased as granules that can be sprinkled in areas that are frequently damp. It is a far more targeted and effective way of controlling mosquitoes. The best known brand goes by the name “Mosquito Bits“.

Action

Consider contacting your state senator or assembly member to recommend legislation banning mosquito fogging and spraying in residential areas. (If you’re not in Webster, find your senator or assembly member.)

Currently the only active legislation in New York State related to Mosquito spraying is targeted to prohibiting aerial and ground application of malathion and certain pyrethroid-based insecticides near schools, day cares, and parks.

If you use a landscape or lawn care company, consider using a company that does not promote the use of mosquito fogs and sprays or encourage them to discontinue offering mosquito control services.

Create a pollinator garden in your yard. It will not only provide a lot of beauty, but it will be helping butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds.

Stay tuned

This is not a one off post. This is important and we will continue to advocate for bees, butterflies, fireflies, and other important insects.

Further reading:

State of the Birds, Cornell University 2025
What You Need to Know Before Spraying for Mosquitoes, Mizejewski and Weber 2025
A Systematic Review of Insect Decline and Discovery, Hailay and Gebremariam 2024
Spring into Action Against Mosquitoes, Aaron Anderson 2023
Nearly 3 Billion Birds Gone, Cornell Labs 2019
Effects of mosquito sprays on humans, pets, and wildlife, Colin Purrington 2018